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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Myraid of issues but here we go getting on my coil 11.89-11.65-11.54, i don't think this is good not sure. Ok checking my fire with a voltage indicator against wires drivers side wires look excelent no blips steady stream, pass side is all over the place meaninig break in light all wires on that side.
Car has been backfiring under heavy boost conditions, and appears to be missing ever so slightly under normal driving conditions, have replaced ign. module from of course auto zone gp sorenson model.
haven't checked cam sensor but have just replaced my crank sensor do to it hitting on the fins when i looked at it and now it really misses even at idle.
Gonna call caspers and see what they suggest and if i can get some help from you guys it would be greatly appreciated also my plugs have heavy carbon buildup from presumably bad fire.
 

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Older--but Getting Wiser
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Sounds like improper crank sensor clearance (should be .025"--set with mucho flexible "feeler gauge"--can't use steel one), and/or bent interruptor ring passing thru same.
 

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The crank sensor must be centered on all three blades passing thru it as stated above.

The coil pack may be bad even tho the resistances measured are within the 11-13 kohm range.

Without a coil tester, or a swap with another one, you cannot be sure.

Why did you swap modules?

At what boost is it cutting out, and, what is the fp at that boost?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just on a hunch, hate puttin it that way but thats why, it has always backfired on hard boost, but noticed my crank sensor was rubbing the rings so i went ahead and got a new one it looks pretty good to me at where it is and i went ahead and .025 on set-up, when i put my voltage indicator or i guess noid light against my plug wires drivers side is an almost steady light, pass side is inconsistent no codes on scanmaster or on car but it really bucks and sputters after the crank sensor install, i'm starting to think coil but not sure, i will look at cam sensor one more time but it looked good approx. a month ago. :dunno:
 

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It's a 'G' thang
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Are you sure the new sensor is positioned correctly. I went through this a while back. You have to make sure the interruptor ring passes through the right gap in the sensor. When mine went out by the way, it wouldn't crank at all. FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I will check again but used some shim stock that is proper gauge but will check again, i had someone turn the engine over at the alt. while i looked at it and it looked good, it is in slot furthest from connector, i just don't understand the one side good the other bad, hard to believe that the pass side wires are all bad or the sensor on the crank is just interupting signal to one side of coil. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Approx 10 pounds of boost it gets that backfire feeling my gauge i think is incorrect but it is at approx 45 psi at the 10 pnd range, scanmaster reads approx. 780 pretty consistently when accelerating through this and no knock, also this is not pedal to the metal it is pedal 3/4 to metal. If i would put that thing to the floor i think i would do damage to something it backfires hard at 3/4 i'd hate to see a full throttle backfire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok update changed coil pack it now reads 13.5 on all big improvement took fuel pressure back to 45 static improved, retarded my timing from 2 deg adv. to 8 deg ret much better had valvetrain noise and backfire with the advance, i did this mainly due to thinking a tired engine will play with these settings but now i trully have a baseline that i need to work from and log any changes, WOHO she busts the tires at a standstill hadn't done that before :headbang: .
Now my question is why do some like advance and some like retard i know every engine is different but i would think there would be a direct cause, anyhow i'm happy as he**. :jump:
 

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Lucy, you got some 'splaining to do! :)

What do you mean it likes timing retard? Did I misunderstand?

It is now showing timing retard of 8 degrees? If so, you will be changing headgaskets before you want to :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
on my trans+ it has settings for base timing so i have had it set at 2 deg adv and haven't really touched it for a couple months, while i was messing with the car i pulled the cover off and went to the 2 deg retard setting and it ran better so i kept going till i saw no change while running at idle. i made these changes with ign off and restart as it says it won't accept a change while car is running, car didn't get to hot approx. 180 deg temp and no knock at all and has run the best it has run for the 8 mos i've had it. :yup: prior to this it would backfire under heavy boost and would make what i would assume is valve train noise, or is this like a bandaid fix and something else is wrong that i'm just missing, i've read that some people say some cars like advanced timing and some the opposite and that every car is a different animal, or maybe i didn't state this right. :confused:
 

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Okay, I understand...with a TT chip, I would not expect it to run better with additional timing over what is in the chip. IN fact, I woud expect it to be dangerous.

I would not expect to have to remove 8 degs in the translator either unless you have a race chip and are running 93 octane or less.

You may have other issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I have just a street chip from tt and always run 93 even though the arabs keep going up on prices, i agree i wouldn't think this is right retarding timing to run better.
Let me start with 8 mos ago and you might get a better understanding.
Well to start engine was so dirty i wouldn't touch it so out came the mean green and my pressure washer after 5 times of doing this i found an engine. Changed out parts that were throwing codes on the cars ses light.
car barely ran no brakes well a little. did compr check and i can't remember but i think it was #5 had 30 pnds, off comes the front to see what is going on. Intake valve has a piece missing will take pic still have and head is cracked between intake and exhaust valve big enough to see, i guess i got lucky the piece that broke off the valve didn't score the cylinder btw the cylinder looked great all of them, i went ahead and changed both hg while i was there. junk yard hunting i go, i get one (head that is) have it checked at a local machine shop and on she goes. Runs much better but still a miss i can tell by listening, get a scanmaster and start looking at it through those readings to diagnose.
At this point i start to upgrade the fuel system put a gauge on and so forth.
It always seemed to miss even then,then i start getting black smoke tubo takes a dump, in for a rebuild, well while its down let me do the body work on it.
continue to change parts here and there to see if it will help Maf, iac, ign module and others i'm sure i'm not listing.
All seem to improve but i keep remember the story my neighbor told me when i was 17 my father in law bought an 87 gn and he about sh*t his pants it would boil the tires at will and was the fastest thing hes ever been in (he has a couple muscle cars and has been around them forever) i keep thinking mine won't why?
So i keep looking buy a trans plus thinkin well maybe i have flaky MAF and they keep saying its a crap shoot, so on it goes idle improves but i still think its missing.
rear main has a leak so i change out the seal, when looking at the bearing i notice slight wear to the copper, no big deal i want to rebuild in a year anyhow, well meet up with a guy that sells me a set of heads that i want to port for the rebuild and i tell him what i saw on bearing and he told me this isn't stock bearing tri metal he said they were bi metal aluminum bearings so now i'm thinking the car has been rebuilt before.
I am sorry for the length a lot more has happened to the car than what i have stated but i'm a frickin worry wart and even though i would love to pull this motor and rebuild the 13k i have in at this point and the old lady prohibit such a measure, but i plan on next year to do it right, but in the back of my mind i am starting to think the timing chain may have slack and that is what it is, while i had it apart prior i wish i would have checked this :crazy:
 
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