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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Would worn rocker arm shafts or rocker arm bores cause the knock sensor to go off? I'm @13-14 psi and am getting 11* of timing pulled out even before I hit second. And it doesn't seem to be an octane issue either. (14psi netted me the same results as 16.5psi.

I replaced the valve springs last year and seem to recall the rocker arms dangling on the shaft like a set of windchimes (well not that bad), but you get the idea.

Are rocker arms and rocker shafts another of the many parts GM has wuit making for us too?


D

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1987 GN...tuned by TurboLink
 

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Just as an aside,doesn't Sealed Power or somebody like that make a whole,heavy duty,stock replacement?

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Give em' hell!
 

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Replaced mine with TA shafts and new GM rockers because of the noise even the new setup was loss as a goose I thought I'd wasted some more money on this thing until I fired it up.They really quieted it down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I haven't noticed my counts go off while I give it a rev, but the darn thing sure is noisy (from what it used to be anyway) and it sounds like it's coming from the valve cover area.

It figures I would have problems just as spring is kickin in.


BTW...last year I ran it at the track for the first time, and during the run it was starting to get that clatter noise, but I never had any knock or timing pulled of the sort.

Maybe I should sell it and buy a Corolla? Hmmmmmmm....NOT!

D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just another thought. I just replaced my MAF a day ago (second Standard in 18 months). It flows to 255 no problem, but if it is programmed wrong, would that cause lots of knock too? My good O2 sensor says I have plenty of fuelwhen going to WOT.

If I wasn't rebuilding my house, I would just order a Translator and get a newer model MAF.
 

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Holy! it's the elusive GNASH! where have you been?
Stop fooling around with that car and crank up the boost! First race is 3 weeks away.......

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Best time so far: 12.78 at 107.5mph on radials, 2.05 60 ft
Stock Turbo/injectors/Ford Powerstroke IC.....
Car weight without driver 3625 lbs
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I was sitting at a light today with the car in drive and the brake on and I could hear the start of that clattling noise at 650 rpm. I'm starting to wonder if my timing chain is ready to go and the tensioner is on it's last legs? I might even try taking off the serpentine belt an dseeing if it is a noisey accessory. It has 168k (kiliometers) on it, so it might be time to bite the bullet and get it done.

Thanks for all the tips you guys have given me so far.


Hey FROST! We are moving out of our house this weekend so they can start tearing the basement out. Haven't had a moment to sit down in two weeks! Hope I can get this car issue resolved before the 10th. ( know it starts on the 3rd, but it's looking grim on that date for me).

Later folks.

D
 

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Originally posted by GNASH:
I'm starting to wonder if my timing chain is ready to go and the tensioner is on it's last legs? I might even try taking off the serpentine belt an dseeing if it is a noisey accessory. It has 168k (kiliometers) on it, so it might be time to bite the bullet and get it done.


D
You better believe it.I lost an engine to a worn timing chain.



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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Even the wife is saying "you had better get that chain fixed....you told me it could make stuff go thru the block!".

Gotta love that woman.


What else would I be smart to change while I'm getting the timing chain done? I'd do it myself, but have no time for the next couple of months. Water pump? Seals? IS a new stock cam that expensive? (with new lifter of course).

I know! I'll just disconnect the knock sensor and leave it that way!...........NOT!!


D
 

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Chain, gears, updated button, water pump, drop the pan, TA perf. shafts, neoprene front main seal, drop the pan, new gaskets.

Don't forget to drop the pan.

PS: Check your motor mounts for KR source.
 
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