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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When the car is cold, it won't idle correctly. The idle just goes up and down, the car will shake very BAD. Seems like the ECM is searching for the best idle, and this all happens in open loop. Once the car is in closed loop it doesn't have a problem idling(But, the motor will shake and miss a little). Also, at steady throttle going down the freeway say 80MPH, the car stutters, shakes and even backfires through the exhaust. I replaced the plugs, Set TPS to .42 key on and IAC 13% ,changed O2, new TA49 turbo, new Blue tops, cleaned IC, cleaned IAC, removed intake and cleaned EGR passage, and still no luck.

I am running an emissions chip (TRYING TO PASS CALIF. SMOG) for the Blue Tops that Joe Lubrant burned for me. (I had this problem with the Stock chip with Stock injectors as well.)
I have Turbolink and all numbers look good.
My idle blm'S are fine, about 120.
My 02 cross counts are moving good.


HELP...

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Thanks,
Scott
89TTA #110

[This message has been edited by Scott A (edited January 23, 2001).]
 

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Resident Idiot
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Have you changed plug wires yet? Sounds like an ignition problem.

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Email Address: mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>


Current Combo: Stock Turbo, V4, MSD50's, TH DP, JayJackson 62mm TB, 16position MaxEffort Chip.
12.35 & 108.39 Street Trim.

[This message has been edited by Orlando_87GN (edited January 23, 2001).]
 

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Mine is still doing this to,But i can put it in gear & it will quit?In 2-3 min will run fine in any range?

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86GN,Astroroof,Fresh .20 block TTA crank,Ported polished heads,intake & stock Turbo,Manly SS valves,Postons headers,THDP,SMC alky,Boost command,Scanmaster2,868 inj,Nitto DR's 275/50/15,All the braces,All gauges VDO.

 

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mine quits once in a while when I stick it in gear when its cold, I think they just have a mind of there own and you just have to talk nicely to them


Joe
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1986 Grand National
13.57 @ 100mph
K&N and a paperclip
 

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Originally posted by Scott A:
Cam sensor ??????????
Why don't you reset it and see.


Make sure you're at TDC on compression stroke. I've seen weird problems with cam sensors 180 out. Look to the tech articles on www.gnttype.org for the procedure.

Good luck!


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Orange Park, FL
various cars, some running
 

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I've had 2 new Tomco maf sensors that would stall several times on startup. Ran fine once the car was warm and didn't show any other symptoms. Put the "old" delco sensor in and no stalling on start-ups.

Jeff

[This message has been edited by GNSS (edited January 31, 2001).]
 

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When looking in the tech article's on www.gnttype.org pay close attention to the article about setting the IAC. That's most everyone's problem here. Scott A. you need to do the IAC setting procedure AND check out that coil pack.

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86 G/N

[This message has been edited by FrankUrbinati (edited February 01, 2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I adjusted the cam sensor 1/4" counter clockwize, and it fixed the sputtering, backfiring problem on the freeway, also idle is much better.
 
G

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Originally posted by Scott A:
When the car is cold, it won't idle correctly. The idle just goes up and down, the car will shake very BAD. Seems like the ECM is searching for the best idle, and this all happens in open loop. Once the car is in closed loop it doesn't have a problem idling(But, the motor will shake and miss a little). Also, at steady throttle going down the freeway say 80MPH, the car stutters, shakes and even backfires through the exhaust. I replaced the plugs, Set TPS to .42 key on and IAC 13% ,changed O2, new TA49 turbo, new Blue tops, cleaned IC, cleaned IAC, removed intake and cleaned EGR passage, and still no luck.

I am running an emissions chip (TRYING TO PASS CALIF. SMOG) for the Blue Tops that Joe Lubrant burned for me. (I had this problem with the Stock chip with Stock injectors as well.)
I have Turbolink and all numbers look good.
My idle blm'S are fine, about 120.
My 02 cross counts are moving good.


HELP...

Need to analyse some T/L files in the following modes:

KOEO, motor cold, preferably after sitting overnite.

After immediate start-up and when the condition occurs. (in park)

Ditto, (in gear)

Motor idling, in gear, motor hot, nothing else on in the system.


At cruise.


At WOT.

Good chance, the above will help diagnose your condition.


DS would be better, but T/L can supply the needed data to help isolate the cause of your problem(s).

A lot cheaper and easier method to fix than throwing parts at it or having to physicaly dig into the mechanical and electronic controls.


Ron



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Ron's Custom Automotive
Certified NJ Emission Repair Facility
1-800-718-7667
GSCA # 2306 / PR Director
BCA # 26330
www.ronscustomauto.com
[email protected]
 
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