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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tend to get wheel hop and major vibration when I try to launch my GN at the track and even during the burnout. I'm running a set of Nittos(275/50s) with airbags(25-35 psi pass. side, 5 psi driverside) and a pinion snubber. Best 60 ft. so far with this setup has been 1.883. I'm considering either boxed stock or hotchkis lower control arms as an upgrade and maybe a set of KYB shocks to hopefully eliminate this problem. Do you guys think this will cure my troubles? What rear suspension setup seems to be the best balance for quick 60 fts. as well as a smooth ride on bumpy roads? I like the way my GN rides and don't want to spoil its daily driveability. Any input is welcome.

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87 GN
TE44, THDP, Poston Headers, CAS V4, Blue Tops, Lunati H-200-200 cam, Street Brawler converter, Hotwired XP Pump, Hemco Plenum, MAF Translator, Lubrant and Armstrong chips, ATR 2 1/2" exhaust
 

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I had wheel hop problems with Nitto DR's. On BFG's, no problem. I am sure my bushings were bad though. Best with the BFG's was 1.70, best with Nittos was 1.84. The stiffer sidewall on the Nittos might have something to do with it.

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1986 Grand National ???
1985 T-Type [email protected]
1996 Impala SS [email protected]

[This message has been edited by hotair85t-type (edited March 24, 2001).]
 

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My car's rear end is set up as follows: boxed factory upper arms with poly bushings (includes the two poly bushings in the differential housing), BGC boxed lowers w/poly bushings I bought years ago, variable rate (aka cargo) springs, airbags 4psi left 22 psi right, long pinion snubber, and Lakewood drag shocks set on "R" that ride really nice on the street. Rear brakes are S-10 wheel cylinders and soft shoes. Best 60-foot time to date is 1.51 on a 26x10 slick using the footbrake only. I drive the car to work most every day of the week and it is comfy. I should mention that this same combo also 60-footed to a 1.61 on a pair of those BGC recaps inflated to 22 psi.

HTH,
Morgan
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'87 GN 11.19 @ 119.change with the usual bolt-ons you stick on a 146,000 mile original motor that's still hanging tough!



[This message has been edited by Three Tirefryers (edited March 24, 2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I didn't have this problem until I put on the Nittos. I have no wheel hop with regular street radials but the car is a traction nightmare. I am also fairly sure the bushings in the rear arms on my 167,000 mile GN have probably seen their best days pass. Just trying to figure out a way to make those Nittos work as they seem to have good potential and perform reliably on the street in just about any weather.
 

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What was the air pressure in the TIRES?

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Jim Testa
1986 Regal T-Type
Stock block, Turbomotion ported heads, PTE 210 roller cam, GNT ported intake, PTE Plenum, 70mm TB, PTE FM IC, MSD 50's, TE61, TPS-TEC, JT Chip, JT 200R4, Vigilante 2800 LU convertor, JT Boxed lower arms, working on girlde....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My best 60 times have come with 20 psi. I've run as high as 30 psi which is what I usually have them set for on the street but experience the same results. I haven't tried dropping them below 20.

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87 GN
TE44, THDP, Poston Headers, CAS V4, Blue Tops, Lunati H-200-200 cam, Street Brawler converter, Hotwired XP Pump, Hemco Plenum, MAF Translator, Lubrant and Armstrong chips, ATR 2 1/2" exhaust
 

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18-20 is the range for the Nittos. What happens when you lower the right air bag to about 22?

If the shocks and /or bushings or bad, that will contribute to hop.

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Steve Wood

86 GN bought new, 87 T-type-81 El Camino with GN drive train-basically stock 86, 94 Caprice 9C1, 60 SS396 Camaro Convertible
 

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Originally posted by Darklord:
I tend to get wheel hop and major vibration when I try to launch my GN at the track and even during the burnout.[/B


I have solved this problem a few times on 11 and 12 sec cars. Remove the rear lower control arms, weld a plate to box them, install poly bushings and no more hop.

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Nick Micale
3334 W. Marconi Ave
Phoenix, AZ 85053
602-866-9908
 

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I don't believe you will need to modify the rear suspension just to make the wheel hop go away.

I can share my experience, and maybe you can compare your situation to mine. I have almost zero wheel hop and use Nitto's religiously.

Tire pressure doesn't matter as far as wheel hop for me. But I have found 17psi to be the sweet spot for my short times.

No aftermarket pinion snubber, whatever came stock.

I have the Nitto's on stock GN wheels.

Airbags. Although I have them installed, there is no pressure in them. But, they are still doing something, as they have *some* air in them. IE, if you took them out you would not be able to squeeze them down, because they do have air in them, but no pressure.

My car has about 115k on it, with stock bushings and stock suspension.

Also, I think I have original shocks. I have never changed them, and they look stock to me.

There are *ONLY* (2) situations where I have ever had wheel hop.

(1) doing to slow of a burn out. When I would do whimpy burnouts, the tires turned over too slow and resulted in a little up and down. This was promptly solved by "driving right through it". (speeding up and rear tires)

(2) Launching at the track hard and being right on the edge of loosing traction off the line. This has happened a few times, even have it recorded. I believe this to be a combination of track conditions and over launching the tires. I have an example here: Slight Wheel Hop on Launch

Also, in that same video is a perfect example of the burnout I do with the Nitto's to achieve 1.6x's all the time. Doing burnouts *out* of the water box, heating them for about 4 seconds, then driving out of it with my foot still in it. Also, I burnout in second gear only, and usually keep the boost around 10psi.

I would also like to add, I *just* took the Nitto's off the car yesterday, to head to the Speedway Spectacular in Daytona. They are pretty much spent. They lasted about 9k miles, with mega burnouts like the one above. I also used them on the street 90% of the time. My point is, they perform and last to boot.

Hope that helps.

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Email Address: mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>


Stock Turbo, Stock Heads, Stock CAM, V4, MSD50's, TH DP, JayJackson 62mm TB, 16position MaxEffort Chip. 3750# with Driver
12.35 & 108.39 Street Trim
11.92 @ 111.77 Race Ready
 

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This probably is not your problem but I thought I'd mention a simple idea that most people will overlook. Check the balance of the tires. If you never had them balanced make sure they don't require more than 2.5 oz. If they require more than that have the tire spun 180 degrees on the rim. That should bring the amount of weight required back down. I have had tires need more than 3.0 oz and after rotating the tire on the rim needed less that 1.0 oz. I've even seen tires that for some reason had a heavy spot in them and needed to be returned.. Go figure.

Kevin

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87GN, 12.05 @ 111, SIXTY FOOT 1.60-LAUNCH 15#, BOOST 25-26 LBS (YEP OVERKILL FOR COMBO), BONE STOCK LONG BLOCK, STOCK I.C. (BELL MOUTHED), STOCK TRANS/CONV, TE44, 009'S, RED'S 107 CHIP. HOME MADE 3" DOWN PIPE. RUNS CONSISTANT 12.10'S-12.11'S.

http://www.geocities.com/kdslaby/solidworks.html


[This message has been edited by KEVINS (edited March 26, 2001).]
 

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I just recently bought a pair of nitto's (275/50's) on a stock 15" rim. So far my best 60' is 1.78. leavin' at 5#'s. I usually run about 14-15 psi in the tires. I have yet to experience any wheel hop. As far as rear suspension goes, I have a larger pinion sunbber, and bilstein shocks everything else is stock. My suggestion to you is run lower tire pressures and see what that does for you.
 
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