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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK I picked up a flase knock, a really bad one. The alarm goes off non-stop unless you are:
1. In reverse
2. braking moderately

So I figure it's something on the passenger side of the engine. I know it's NOT the DP because it does it with out the downpipe installed. I figure it's not electrical since it goes away in reverse and such. I really can't find where anything solid is hitting the frame.

My crossover is kinda close to the lower bellhousing cover (inspection shield). Could this be it??

This thing came out of the blue, I've always had a somewhat active knock alarm (over bumps etc) but not like this.

While troubleshooting I soldered the alarm wires to the ECM harness, which removed the false beeps while shaking the alarm hanress.

Also I've tried just turning over the motor with the TW on 0, and it does it then...

Something in the back of the motor?
Loose knock sensor?

 

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It will do it when it is turning over due to starter noise.

exhaust pipe hitting something-check the bracket off the back of the tranny, tranny lines dancing on the block, loose ac compressor...bolt missing from it, bad engine mounts-engine shifting forward, check the tranny mount, too....

intercooler loose, idler pulley hitting ac compressor stud, park linkage coming into contact with something...downpipe and cross over touching.....



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Knock sensor bad? Easy enough to change out.

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Stock Block, Stock Cam, PTE-52, Champion Heads, V4, MSD50's, TH DP, JayJackson 62mm TB, 16position MaxEffort Chip. 3680# with Driver
12.0 @ 116.5mph w/20psi using 17.9* timing

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If it were the knock sensor, why wouldn't it knock in reverse?

It's not the DP or the exhaust cause:
1. running with no DP still does it
2. there is no exhaust other than a DP

I'll look into the crossover. AC compressor, and mounts.

The motor mounts aren't REAL bad.

I've got flexible 6AN ran for the trans cooler, and it's pretty far away from the engine.

Intercooler is tight, gotta slight wobble to it that's gonna be taken out with a mass damper. (it's got some big time braces from when I had a water jacket on it).

I wasn't sure if it did it with the starter or not before. I've heard enough noise outta that thing in the last 2 days to kill a man.
 

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Motor mounts gave me 39* KR but I could see the engine torque right over as the rubber was completely separated from the metal. It was operating on the safety tab.

Changed it to a HR Parts Poly and the KR went to 0.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That was one of my first guesses too, but the motor doesn't really move that much, the one in my park avenue moves way more and it's only 4years old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Eureka! I've found it! ....well kinda

Today I rerouted the trans cooler lines, found a few nuts sitting on the lower intake, and moved my intake pipe slightly.

changing on eof these three things made it to the knock sensor only goes off in park, tried loading the converter in drive and reverse and neither set it off. I'm getting there I guess.

The intake pipe didn't appear to be hitting anything any more so I guess I can rule that out too.

I may have to try some different trans cooler lines, that baffles me though because they have been on the car for a few years and I haven't had any problems.

Does anyone else not use factory trans cooler lines?? If so how are they routed and what size/type of hose are they?
 

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Loose converter or flywheel bolts.

Have fun checking the latter.


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Michael Lis
87 Vortec SS
87 Turbo T
http://geocities.com/CanadianSkunkWorks/index.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Eureka I've found it. After chasing this knock into the electrical system by noting that it stopped when the brakes were tapped, and fixing grounds and everything in site until I was lost again, I tried a different (known good) Conley's Tat-L-Tale box. Fixed the problem.


Conley's is replacing the item.
 

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Broken motor mount in the new GN had 39* of KR and didn't hear a thing. Pretty much a stock car too.


Brake torqued the motor in the driveway, and ,walla
one HR Parts mount later and the KR was now 0.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I did all that a long time ago, my stock mounts are holding up pretty good. Motor doesn't jump around much at all.

I can't believe all this time went by and I didn't try another form of knock detector.... oh well.
 

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Didn't realize this was an old one LOL.
 

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Not hot but her voice is smokin' or smoky, whatever....

Her life story was on E this weekend, I am sure you caught it so I won't rehash the details.
 

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Whats a conley's tat-l-tale box?

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87 GN Hardtop~Stock motor, Mease stock intercooler w/Duttweiler big neck,stock intake, stock tb and plenum, TE51 w/.63 housing, stock D5, MSD 50's, THDP, ATR 3" dual exhaust, big mouth cold air inducition, SMC alchy injection and egt gauge, MM boost command, PTE remote oiling system, Walboro 340 hotwired, 10 mm Magnecor wires, AC R43 plugs @.035 Adjustable regulator, ATR 3" maf pipe, B&M tranny cooler, Deep aluminum tranny pan, Dynotech shift kit, scanmaster 2.1, 21* Testa alchy chip, dual airbags, vdo gauges, autometer boost gauge, front braces and rear seat brace, Bilstein shocks, more mods to come
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Beeps and lights an LED when the knock sensor goes off, simple alternative to the Casper's Gauge, and a little easier to watch in my opinion.
 

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