Turbo Buick Forums banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Not a Selfproclaimed guru
Joined
·
420 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Check the sig,IMO it is the stock IC keeping me down at 108 mph,what is your best guess?I plan to pull it apart over the winter to put new gaskets throughout and also some porting in the stock heads(my xtra set).What else should I do,where is my biggest bottleneck in my combo?I was running 100 octane and 25-26 psi of boost with no knock.I did no take any turbolink runs but the knock detector did'nt make a peep all night.So rather than putting a window in my block I thought I'd ask the pro's the easiest way to get mid 11's out of what I have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Dave,
I think we met at the track I was in the 87 GN next to you. We have similar combo's and run about the same times. I know the humidity has alot to do with the slower times. I ran a 12.2 once and that was with half the humidity we had that night.
I think with drag radials we are always going to be limited to the 12's, also without me being able to hold more than 3 lbs. of boost at the line with my cruddy brakes my 60' times suffer.

Even if I could hold more boost, I just blow the tires away for about an 8th mile down the track.

Porting the heads will make a difference,
And you should consider getting a bigger intercooler or a dutt. Neck on you stocker.

I hope to see you again up at leicster, we can chat some more about the wonderful world of buicks!
-Rich
:D
 

·
Village Idiot
Joined
·
4,813 Posts
A Dutt neck will give you 2 or 3 mph IMO but many have gone mid 11s w/a bone stock IC. Your 44 turbo can deliver cool air in spite of back pressure as compared to a stock turbo. I would guess that you're running the car too rich so you really should get some passes in when you have your scantool with you before making a lot of changes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Stevemon,
was your 1/4 times with slicks and race gas?
I have the same problem as Dave. Going 11's is no easy task with Drag Radials.
Any tips on how to accurately tune out a rich condition at WOT.
My blm's are at 126-128 at idle o2's run about
790's to 820's at WOT but I just dont trust the o2 sensor for tuning.
Sorry Dave for highjacking your post, I think we both need help crazy
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
Turn the propane off, put in a regular chip and see what it will do on race gas. Then if it runs, you will have an idea where to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,887 Posts
Do you guys have high timing chips? I know all my turbo cars seem to run better rich. The more fuel I give it the faster I go. Leaner is meaner doesn't seem to imply for me. Tuning, all you can do is experiment and see what the car likes.
 

·
Village Idiot
Joined
·
4,813 Posts
pwrslave,
I have never run my GN on anything but slicks and reacegas. Out 60 footing a trailered BBC is a GNs' speciality and why would you want to leave
anything on the table?
forzfed,
Yes, I run A Red 108 chip. Tining is 30 degrees.
 

·
Not a Selfproclaimed guru
Joined
·
420 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Rich,yeah that's me in my hard to spot car :) You were the only one I ran up against that night that was faster than myself but your mph was 111 and mine 108 on that run,so I think your turbo is helping you get a lil' more power.I will definitly be back up there a couple of times this year.Also,Sept 20(?)the WNYTB club is doing a track rental as well.Back to the car...I do think it is running a bit rich but I can't get the FP any lower than 40psi :confused: I am going to try what Steve Wood suggested,I think I may be getting too rich with the propane on the top end.I was actually hooking up pretty good,I was doing a tiny burnout each time just to clean the tires off and it bit pretty good when I was able to build some good boost(how good is a 1.8 60'?).I need to work on my launch though,I can build alot of boost that will hook, but the damn tree came down to fast.Seems like it pulls great on the bottom end but sort of loses it near the top.Valve springs? They are originals with 35k miles on them.
 

·
Village Idiot
Joined
·
4,813 Posts
DRs can get into the low 1.7s fairly well w/your combo but the track prep is a big factor.
I changed my valeve springs at 20K because I noticed the car seemed like it really came alive right after the rpms dropped at the shift points.
The new springs really helped. On the stage procedure, you need to build boost to 50% of your launch pai before you light the 2nd bulb & then bump in. When the tree lights the 2nd yellow countdown bulb, my converter and brakes will let me floor the pedal letting off the brake on the last yellow. (what's known as flashing the converter). Works pretty good for low 1.6s when you need to leave with 15 psi or so. The fact that the boostgage needle is on the upswing when coming off the line makes a big difference and I'm sure the car is at 24psi 3 feet off the line.
 

·
Not a Selfproclaimed guru
Joined
·
420 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When I go to the track should I forget propane and alchy alltogether and just go with the highest octane I can get and save the other stuff for the street? I have been thinking that I have it tuned ass backwards.I might be too lean with my fuel and making up for it with propane.This might be why I can use the biggest propane jet.Ok, tonight I am going to try to tune it for just 94 octane with my Jay Carter street chip and see how much boost I can get safely, then take it from there.Thanks guys I'll be back,hopefully not asking about head gaskets crazy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
yup yup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
309 Posts
Here's my opinion...don't take it personally but a 1.8 60ft sucks...for mid-11's with an unopened block you need to get those down to mid/high 1.5's...use some "real" slicks...not drag radial or MT Streets...also you're pushing a TE-44 beyond it's limits trying to get there...would be better with a bigger turbo...not sure what timing you have in the chip but with 100 octane I'm assuming it's not that much...you need to use a strip chip with some timing..26-28 degrees..as for thinking about tearing the engine down all I can say is...WHY??...I have said this many times before and will say it again...on a stock unopened engine as long as it's running OK and no major problems...leave it alone!...you will never get the factory headgasket seal again so enjoy it while you can...up the boost...tune..tune...tune and run it till the headgaskets blow...then tear it down and rebuild with ported heads...etc
 

·
aka: mOtOrHeAd MiKe
Joined
·
6,603 Posts
What I have found is that your base fuel still has the biggest impact on overall performance. The propane only enhances this factor. It is just like running C16, too little fuel pressure and you will still detonate.

Hook up your TurboLink and record the runs... this is why you bought it, right? dunno
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
I would turn the propane off and get the car running correctly on straight gas. So far I am decidely underwhelmed by the reported propane performances reported. And, Mike may be entirely correct in regards to fueling as it is still relatively a new gimmick.

We all know that boost does not always reflect in performance. If the car is too rich, it may not go. If it is too lean, it may not go.

I would run the car on gasoline only and establish some kind of base line so you can tell when you are making progress in dialing in the propane in the next step.
 

·
aka: mOtOrHeAd MiKe
Joined
·
6,603 Posts
Steve Wood:
I would turn the propane off and get the car running correctly on straight gas. So far I am decidely underwhelmed by the reported propane performances reported. And, Mike may be entirely correct in regards to fueling as it is still relatively a new gimmick.

We all know that boost does not always reflect in performance. If the car is too rich, it may not go. If it is too lean, it may not go.

I would run the car on gasoline only and establish some kind of base line so you can tell when you are making progress in dialing in the propane in the next step.
Agreed. yup

I hope to show some better/new propane numbers this weekend.

*God. Please keep the humidity down*
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
geesh Mike, you have to say a Hail Mary first and THEN ask unto the.

I bet a little shot of Nitrous would help his 60 beener times....heh heh heh.

headbang headbang headbang
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
I believe in using medical grade nitrous...then, if the car does not run well, you can still feel good about it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
When I ran my 12.209 at 109mph I had no idea what type of boost I was holding, All I know is that I did not spin that time. I got a 1.7 60'
time this was with 100 octane (xylene/94 mix)
And alky, 25/23 timing and 26lbs. of boost.
If I had grabbed a 1.5 60' I would have hit 11's
with modest timing, no race gas and drag radials.
I dont think thats too shabby considering.
I am shooting for street 11's That is my goal.
I need to upgrade the brakes and try again.

:D
 

·
Not a Selfproclaimed guru
Joined
·
420 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The reason I want to tear the motor down is mainly to fix the rear main,oil pan,front cover and other leaks coming from god knows where.None are huge,but they are enough to warrant fixing them.I hate when it smokes the oil from the inspection cover on the crossover,it only does it when I'm in front of alot of people.I also think it has too much blowby and not enough oil pressure once it gets hot.I know they run low near idle but it starts out high the drops quickly once hot.Maybe I will just fix the oil leaks and put it back in,but hate to not put fresh bearings in it while I have the oil pan off.So I was thinking of doing the rings and bearings schizo but can't decide.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top