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Resident Embraer Driver
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got back from school, the GN came up from florida on a U-Haul trailer. That was an interesting drive, anyway....

I had some vavle springs laying around that I got from kirbin a while ago so I figured I dont have a job yet so I might as well tear my car apart and give them a try by myself.

I printed out the instructions from gnttype.org and they were good exept for one thing, they said to make the pipe that you bolt to the head half as long as the head and put 2 holes in it, It should be the full length of the head with three holes in it so the bolts dont get in the way. Mistake #1

That put my L shaped valve spring compressor at a wierd angle. so I get to the thrid one on the drivers side, an exaust vavle. Mind you I am using my dads wimpy 25 year old Sears Robuck and Co. air compressor to pressurize the cylinder. Mistake #2

I turned the motor over until I thought the piston was at top dead center, It wasnt even close. Mistake #3

I got to the third spring and it was an exaust vavle and the compressor couldnt keep up, and the valve spring compressor was at a weird angle so the vavle dropped into the cylinder.
I pulled the header off to try to manuver the valve back up into the guide. That wasnt going to happen.
So I proceded to remove the intake and the driver side head. Thats allways fun for a first timer.
I did replace all of the vavle springs and vavle seals on the passenger side without dropping one. kind of easy with no intake on the car.
I wish sombody would have told me finding a GM head gasket for one of these things is tuffer than finding a motor for a 1903 curved dash oldsmobile.
In the morning I have to drive a half hour to get one head gasket.

So for all you first timers, the most important thing I think if your following the gnttype.org directions its to get a piece of 1/2 inch black pipe and drill the three holes in it so you can bolt it to the head, and use lots of washers and two bolts. so the bolts dont get in the way when your compressing the spring.

I'll post when I get this think together and the Kirbin springs I bought wipe out my cam, (I sure hope they dont
)

Joe

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1986 Buick Grand National
TA-49 Turbo, 009's, Hooker cat back, CAS V4, Art Carr 3000 stall, BGC 3'' Downpipe, ported elbow and all the other usual stuff.
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All you have to do is take the 2 bolts out of the short pipe and flip it over and bolt it to the other side of the head.

I don't think my compressor cycled more than once during the time the spark plug hole was plugged with the fitting.

I agree with the Kirban valve springs however... Someone should test those someday to give everyone some peace of mind.


Good luck with the headgasket. I am interested in how that goes for you.

That job in the car would make me
.

Where did you get all the new bolts?
 

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Resident Embraer Driver
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Salvage, I am going to reuse the old bolts, They have held a lot of boost and a lot of knock without letting me down before. If it aint broke dont fix it right?

anybody know the torque spec on the head bolts off hand?

Joe

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1986 Buick Grand National
TA-49 Turbo, 009's, Hooker cat back, CAS V4, Art Carr 3000 stall, BGC 3'' Downpipe, ported elbow and all the other usual stuff.
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That's why I asked, I think the factory stock bolts are Torque to Yield bolts and CANNOT BE REUSED!!!!

Do a thorough check on this with other people!!!! It is important!

Most will buy new torque to yield bolts from GM or else go to ARP fasteners which can be reused or studs. There are procedures for doing the heads do a search, we don't want any more problems.
 

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On a side note, an old trick is to get several feet of small diameter rope and feed it into the spark plug hole to keep the valve from dropping in. Not as trick as using compressed air, but it sure will stay there overnight if you need a beer and pizza break or run out of time for the night.

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86GN-X clone,309G billet roller,ported irons,port matched intake,JE pistons, RJC girdle, billet mains, arp studs, poston's ceramic headers,ceramic crossover,3" ported elbow,Kirban 3" DP,KB 3" single shot, twin Stainless ultraflows,Red Stripes,ATR 7th,BGC pump,Hotwire,Voltbooster,TB heat bypass,Joe Lubrant 93 & 110 chips,scanmaster,KB ram air,K&N,D5,level 10, as many wheel and tire combos as women have shoes, and a little bit of boost.
 

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We used the string method and did (2) cars in one day. We also used the Kirbans tool but it broke halfway through the second car.

Don't reuse the stock head bolts whatever you do. Order up some ARP 190K psi head bolts and the red ARP lube.

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Stock Block, Stock Cam, PTE-52, Champion Heads, V4, MSD50's, TH DP, JayJackson 62mm TB, 16position MaxEffort Chip. 3680# with Driver
12.0 @ 116.5mph w/20psi using 17.9* timing

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Originally posted by Orlando_87GN:
Order up some ARP 190K psi head bolts and the red ARP lube.

How good are these as compared to studs? I understand that R&R of the heads in the car can be a problem with studs due to clearance, but I am after solid holding power on a girdled block.
 

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Actually it's kinda weird couldn't find a place in the manual that said not to reuse them?

Then again it did say they were torque to yield so I assume they are yielded already.

Kinda strange since they warn you about everything else, like using clean rags and sich...
 

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There is a specific procedure for the TTY bolts (for tightening). I would suggest you follow that procedure if you have them, or they may snap in half. Ask me how I know.

I hate them. Get the ARP's. Apparently they started to use the TTY's sometime in 85 as neither of my 84's have them.

If Prized_V6 already posted this, please disregard.




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Hey Joe! Don from Pep Boys Daytona. When I did my valve springs in the car I used a Chevy style spring compressor and drilled a hole on each side of the hole already in the center. Got to every spring hole job took about three hours.. I know info too late... maybe will help if need arises again..
 

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I have pretty good luck with a chevy L bar spring compressor that I drilled a hole to the side of regular rocker bolt hole. Using the rocker shaft bolts and a shock absorber bushing as a pivot, the job goes pretty quickly. You use the offset pivot hole for the first spring of a pair, then use the existing hole as a pivot to remove the remaining spring.

The first VS change is never easy, the second time you do one, its like childs play.

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