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It's a 'G' thang
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is it guys? How much will she hold?
 

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RealestVIN7 said:
What is it guys? How much will she hold?
With the long chevy truck filter, I run 5.5, and that leaves it a little under the full mark (helps with windage).
 

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It's a 'G' thang
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought stock was at least 5 right? I figure there is at least 1.5 more quarts capacity in the lines and big filter alone. That would put you right at about 6.5 for safety purposes right? You're playing kinda' dangerously there. Somebody clear this up.
 

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It's a 'G' thang
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just cleared up my own dilemma... I called Precision and they said to run SEVEN QUARTS! (7 Quarts guys... I'm being sensitive to those of you who have trouble reading.) :crazy: Man you're cutting it close Doc.
 

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RealestVIN7 said:
I thought stock was at least 5 right? I figure there is at least 1.5 more quarts capacity in the lines and big filter alone. That would put you right at about 6.5 for safety purposes right? You're playing kinda' dangerously there. Somebody clear this up.
(helps with windage).

You want to keep oil from being whipped around in the crankcase. I've only run the engine this way for ~6 years, and for 4 years at 28 PSI of boost on pump gas. Current oil temps. show the engine is very happy oil temp. wise.

Adding more oil is no insurance about anything. If you want to use it as part of the *cooling system*, fine, but with no oil cooler, I run oil temps of about 140dF around town. Hard running or an extened high speed run will get it up to ~190dF.
 

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I never measure precisely...but, it holds slightly less than 6 to the full mark on mine. Not sure where 7 comes from in reality?
 

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When my car was in one piece it would hold EXACTLY 6 qts with an oil change. That was with everything stock.
 

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Mine held closer to 5.5. Maybe we have different measures on this side of the Mississippi? :D
 

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strange, I went to gnttype archives and some say their's holds 5 with the little filter...some say 5.5 with a larger filter...some say 5.75, and others say six....I don't know if all drains out on every change...especially the saver oil lines...

Kinda interesting the variation.
 

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Doc1of7 said:
(helps with windage).

You want to keep oil from being whipped around in the crankcase. I've only run the engine this way for ~6 years, and for 4 years at 28 PSI of boost on pump gas. Current oil temps. show the engine is very happy oil temp. wise.

Adding more oil is no insurance about anything. If you want to use it as part of the *cooling system*, fine, but with no oil cooler, I run oil temps of about 140dF around town. Hard running or an extened high speed run will get it up to ~190dF.
It will also make a few pony's. I was taught this on a dyno along time ago in Il.
 

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wmsonta said:
It will also make a few pony's. I was taught this on a dyno along time ago in Il.
Also saves on excessive oiling of those items that get splashed lubed.
Also, cuts down on amount of oil whipped into *air* in the crankcase, and thus less oil thru the PCV system.

After seeing what dry sumps, windage trays, etc., did on a dyno in CA, I've tried to follow the lessions learned.
 

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It's a 'G' thang
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
That's cool. To each his own. I think I'll stick with 6. To get all the oil out, I drain the obvious amount as usual, then bump it over a few times to push some of the oil out of the lines. I don't worry about lubrication issues because I'm not cranking on it. Plus, the additives in the residual oil should take care of the bearings, rings, etc. It can be messy, but if you got a buddy to hold a bucket by the adapter, then it's not so bad. I just don't like the idea of all that leftover, used and dirty oil left in the lines.
 

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Steve Wood said:
Mine held closer to 5.5. Maybe we have different measures on this side of the Mississippi? :D


Now that I think about it, I did get ahead of myself. I ASSuMEd that I used 6 qts (as reconized by the weights and standards geeks).
It takes exactly 6 bottles of Mobil1 oil to do an oil change to *** out just right on the stick.


Moblil oils could be using me at a messenger to screw with people by proxy or they could be slipping me 5.5qts of oil in 6, count 'em "6", "1qt." juggs.



If I wan't so busy looking at pr0n and drinking beers, I'd google some conspericy boards to see what's going on :)
 

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RealestVIN7 said:
That's cool. To each his own. I think I'll stick with 6. To get all the oil out, I drain the obvious amount as usual, then bump it over a few times to push some of the oil out of the lines. I don't worry about lubrication issues because I'm not cranking on it. Plus, the additives in the residual oil should take care of the bearings, rings, etc. It can be messy, but if you got a buddy to hold a bucket by the adapter, then it's not so bad. I just don't like the idea of all that leftover, used and dirty oil left in the lines.
I've seen an oil pump lose it's prime doing that. Only once, but having to pull the pump apart for doing an oil change is a PITA.
 

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It's a 'G' thang
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What do mean when you refer to an oil pump "losing it's prime?" I've got oil pressure problems right now, but I've had them since the first 3K miles on my motor (prior to this little experiment with the "bumping"). No matter what RPM's I'm cruising at, my pressure is never more than 26-27 lbs. Only at startup is it ever more than that...about 50+ maybe. At idle it's less than 15lbs. Sup with that?
 

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means that if the oil is pumped out of the pump, then it may suck air rather oil when you crank the engine...and that ain't good :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Oh ok. It's hard for me to explain, but I get it. Steve, what do you think about my oil issues? I have less than 8K on the motor. I need more oil pressure. My lifters/valvetrain is making ticking noises.
 

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I guess the easiest thing to do is to check the pump set up and see if the clearances make sense, and, the high pressure bypass is not stuck open, or, assembled incorrectly.

The idle pressure is not all that critical. I have been told by some that 8# is enuf at hot idle...but it needs to come up quickly and 26-27# is definitely not enuf.

Cranking it over to get rid of the extra oil that did not drain is definitely a bad idea...but, I kinda doubt that is the root of your problem as long as you had oil pressure immediately upon starting the engine each time after refilling with oil.

Have you checked the oil filter? Meaning to cut it open and check for bits of metal-either aluminum or copper in the pleats?

Are you sure you put the galley plugs back in when the short block was assembled? Was the pressure normal when you initially put the engine in? If it was, at what point did it drop, and if it did drop, was it gradually, or quickly?

What weight oil are you running?

You are fixing to have a blown engine in a short time with those low pressures.

BTW, put however much oil in it as it takes to get to the full mark...not how many quarts you were told, or read here...Doc is right, it does not hurt to be lower than the full line...to a certain degree...but, it is certainly bad to be above it. :)
 

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It's a 'G' thang
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
A local GN guy in Dallas rebuilt it for me. He's got a pretty good reputation and has been working on them since the early 90's. I would like to think he did everything right. I called him and he said he wants me to drop it off in a couple weeks. He's going out of the country for vacation. Do you think my motor will last that long, you know, since it's been like this for 8K miles so far?
 

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if you are forced to drive it, drive it easy and no wot action. Hopefully it is not badly wounded...sounds like a nice guy to me. :)
 
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