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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got the car back in August 2012. Since then I've been doing some mods here and there, some useful and some mostly useless.

So I finally got the dough to get the powerlogger, I go to install it and the car starts giving me troubles starting and I couldn't figure out what. The powerlogger was giving me a few mal codes, but I really didn't have any problems. Engine ran smoothly. After a day the car wouldn't start, crank, spark maybe once or twice, then just continue to crank, but not idle or anbything.
Swapped out an ecm using the same tt chip I had before when car ran smoothly, car started, idled, and was able to drive it. Next day, again wouldn't start. Contacted Mr. Bailey, he checked out my ecms and powerlogger. Fixed a internal connection issue on the PL and said the ecms are ok, not bad. I get them back, car still won't start. I honestly don't know what to do, where to look. Next possible day to work on the car is saturday or the next few days in the morning.

Anyone want to help me out? I really just need another set of eyes, more experienced eyes to help out. I'm getting beyond frustrated to the point that I just rather put in xfi get it tuned and be done with it. problem is no money for that kind of thing.
Planning on doing an 8 hour trip in May with her, so I need her up and running smoothly with the powerlogger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I've narrowed it down to ignition module and coilpak, calpak in the ecm, or the ecm as a whole.

Question, is it common for the ecm's to be checked out and seem ok but in all actuality they won't work properly?
 

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i have been selling ecm for the past 12 years if the car was working fine and you just removed the ecm and there was no problems i dont think the ecm just died,if you have anyone close to you just try 1 super easy to do,but i dont think your original 1227148 computer is your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The chips both the extender extreme and tt chip are matched to my injectors. For the record they are 60lbers from turbotweak. Ill check compression. Spark plugs do seen wet from fuel. Ill check the cam sensor as well. I believe on the other site there is a detailed description how to test the cap. Don't have the casper's tester so not sure there. I do get good fuel pressure/pump does prime with key on engine off.

Yes the codes started prior to getting ecms checked out came he to the powerlogger internal connection. And ever since i got them back not sure where to go from there. Well the timing chain needs to get replaced soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i have been selling ecm for the past 12 years if the car was working fine and you just removed the ecm and there was no problems i dont think the ecm just died,if you have anyone close to you just try 1 super easy to do,but i dont think your original 1227148 computer is your problem.
Prior to sending the ecms to Bob Bailey, I switched my ecm with a spare I had bought fro Jim Dunn. Put the tt chip in there, installed properly and the car started right up no issues. Next day doesn't start.
 

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Sounds to me like bad coil/module, or cam/crank sensor. Morning dew shorting something perhaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
easy to swap another ecm and eliminate that
as for making a car start ..begin with basics ..
you need air fuel compression spark ..and voltage on a computer controlled car

air...
we can assume you have air

fuel...
is fuel pump priming with key on
fuel pressure while cranking (you need over 26 but it should be 43)
is fuel being delivered (are injectors opening)
noid light will show if injectors are firing
wet plugs
if no injectors ...
check cam sensor,(is it spinning , does cap read on meter or tester)
is chip matched to injectors
crank sensor (did it hit the balancer ring )
or ecm (swap in a good one)

spark .....
are plugs wet (wet plugs wont start well)
is ignition working ( put plug on end of spark plug wire and see)
a caspers tester can test coil and module

compression
have you tested compression , if compression is not over 135 on all cylinders its possible you slipped the timing chain
With a volt meter I checked power to pins P and M on the ignition plug (14 pin plug). Key on, Engine off, Pin P gets 0.128 volts and M get 0.050 volts. What are they supposed to be?

Cam sensor ring does not move freely. It has minimal play.

Ohm coil pak towers 12.2k-12.4k. Too high resistance?

Noid light shows injectors pulsing
 

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Vortex Buicks go to trouble shooting section, for a good read.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
p and m should be battery voltage
P goes to ecm fuse through ignition switch

M goes to fuel pump/ C3i fuse through ignition switch


do you have a steady SES light with key on
Yes I do have a steady SES light with key on.

Got another ecm from a member as well as an ignition coil and module. Swapped both in, car starts like a champ.

I have a question about all this. The small chip on the ecu board to the right of the tt chip. Is that the calpak chip? Whatever that chip is called, if its bad could it cause my issue?
 

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Yes that is the Calpac chip. I would "ASSume" that if it's bad it would cause some issues but I don't know exactly what it those issues might be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
easy to swap another ecm and eliminate that
as for making a car start ..begin with basics ..
you need air fuel compression spark ..and voltage on a computer controlled car

air...
we can assume you have air

fuel...
is fuel pump priming with key on
fuel pressure while cranking (you need over 26 but it should be 43)
is fuel being delivered (are injectors opening)
noid light will show if injectors are firing
wet plugs
if no injectors ...
check cam sensor,(is it spinning , does cap read on meter or tester)
is chip matched to injectors
crank sensor (did it hit the balancer ring )
or ecm (swap in a good one)

spark .....
are plugs wet (wet plugs wont start well)
is ignition working ( put plug on end of spark plug wire and see)
a caspers tester can test coil and module

compression
have you tested compression , if compression is not over 135 on all cylinders its possible you slipped the timing chain

Finally got around to diagnosing the issue why the car wouldn't start. After switching out a coilpak and module from another member, car still didn't start. I then switched ecms with the same turbotweak chip and finally car started. Tracing back I changed back to my original coilpak and module I had when I got the car back from Mr. Dunn, car started. I further proceeded to change out to my ecm with the powerlogger, but this time I changed the calpak chip. Low and behold, car started like a charm. Needless to say, I felt like Christmas Day had come upon me.

Everyone thank you for your comments and help. Much appreciated!!!!

P.S. = Maybe next month's meet I can finally show up. :headbang: :cheers:

:6::3gears:
 
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