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Torque Convertor & Stall Speed Advice

1K views 8 replies 7 participants last post by  Schlodes 
#1 ·
I've pretty much decided on having Bruce Toelle do the rebuild. I've done some research on this but would appreciate your input. My combo will include:
Stock block .038 w/steel center caps
Wiseco pistons
Champion irons w/ ported intake
206/206 billet roller
T&D roller rockers
TE44 turbo

I realize that the combo is overkill for a daily driver & occasional track visit. That being said, I have heard that the 9/11 is a very good convertor for the $$. I've been leaning towards a 3000 stall. I DO NOT plan on running more than 23psi of boost, even at the track. I want this motor to last. I realize detonation is the major factor in that but I want to be on the safe side.
I will drive the car everyday to work & around town & I want to make sure that a 3000 stall will not affect my car at low speeds in town. Some have said that their tranny felt like it was slipping at low speeds. Some say otherwise. I do not want that if possible. I'm a little confused about the lock-up situation when it comes to stall speed. Does the convertor ONLY lock-up at the advertised stall of the convertor? Or does that mean that it has the capability of locking up at that rpm? As stated above, I just want to be sure on the affect of a higher stall while driving daily. Your advice is welcomed.
 
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#2 ·
First, let me congratulate you on your choice of converters. I've been running a 9-11 for a year now and am very happy with it.

I run a 3600 stall (had a PT52 turbo, now a TE45) and no real difference in street performance. I'd venture to say you won't be able to tell the difference. I'd probably go with a 3200 stall though.

I don't think stall speed has anything to do with lock-up speed. My converter locked up at about 45 to 47 mph with a stock converter and still does with a 3600 stall.



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#3 ·
I run 3200 stall in daily street use. No problems at all except with maybe a 5deg temp increase in the summer months. Also add a good external trans cooler.

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ED BAKER
87-T-TYPE, PT54,MSD50's,Crane Billet Roller,JE forged20over,P&P Heads,Manley valves,Hemco 65mm& Acu65TB,V2 FM, P.I.9.5 -7disc,Jimmys Trans, new times soon.
93 PARK AVE"SUPERCHARGED"
67RS/SS350 CAMARO
mailto:ULYCYC@TurboBuicks.comULYCYC@TurboBuicks.com</A>
http://www.modernmusclecar.net
 
#4 ·
Based solely on the setup you've provided and the other information on how the car's to be driven, you don't really even need a converter smaller than stock.

However, the 9/11 is a good all around street/strip converter with the lock up clutch, and will server you well.

You're severly "under" turbo'd for your combination, and will someday want to upgrade to something a bit better, which is why the 9/11 converter should work well.

Anyone that tells you their car feels like it's slipping with only a 3000 stall has obviously gotten stuck with a poorly designed converter. You should never even notice a 3000 converter is even in there untill you start pushing it hard.
I'm running close to a 3500 converter, and hardly even know it's there, until I start pushing it hard though.
Converters that feel loose under normal or light loads are just poorly designed, ineficient peices of junk.

BTW, the lockup feature has nothing to do with stall speed. That's the clutch in the converter that locks up approaching highway speeds so you can enjoy better fuel mileage. It won't lock up at the track, unless you have your chip modified to command it to, or add a switch to manually lock it.



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TurboDave & Kathy Huinker, mailto:TurboDave@turbobuicks.comTurboDave@turbobuicks.com</A>
TurboD Racing,Turbo Buick Web Ring
San Diego CA http://home.san.rr.com/buickv6/
86 GN11.67@117.51(MM/MAF Xlator/Extender,MM BstC Boost Command,THDP,PTE44,CAS V2FM,MSD50's,9.5"vigilante 3500)
87 GN 12.95@105.50(Stock)
84 Z28 L69
01 Excursion LTD TTS"race" chip 7.3L PSD(power stroke diesel) Turbo 4X2
Pictures of my toys
 
#5 ·
Thanks for coming through for me on the replies guys.
The experience with the 9/11 along with the explanation on lockup really helps me understand. I may go with a 3200 stall, as suggested above. Either way, it seems Bruce offers a free stall change up to a year of purchasing. Sounds great.
 
#6 ·
Like Dave said....Your really don't need more than stock with that combo in my experience but you can easily run 3000-3200 with a 9/11 and be hard pressed to know it is there. It might be a hair less responsive at very light throttle...but I doubt you will really be aware of it.
 
#8 ·
3000 will work fine! Does with mine.


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To hell with 12's Im going for the 11's!


Keith Davis**86GN, Astroroof, DigDash' TTA crank, Ported polished heads & matched intake' Jay's 62mm TB/upper, V4 IC' TRW .30 forged pistons & PT51 Turbo, Manly SS valves, CC 206-206 cam' Postons headers, Orange stripe conv. THDP,2 1/2 exhaust' Hooker comp. mufflers' SMC alky,Boost command, Scanmaster2, MSD50 inj, SS MAF & translator' Nitto DR's 275/50/15, All the braces, All gauges VDO.
12.8 @ 102 is with stock setup no times for new setup yet.


 
#9 ·
Like the other guys mentioning you don't need a convertor more than stock really.. I was thinking the same and that a TE 44 on a Champion headed 206 cam motor would probably have really nice fast spool up and throttle response over stock longblock with that same turbo.

But if you know you are going to upgrade your tubo.. Definately do the convertor upgrade now.

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DTA... don't trust anybody...
- - - - - -
Steve Ruston
1989 Mustang LX Coupe
5 speed, mostly stock w/ small mods... For now anyway :D
1976 Chev Caprice Classic,
96000 miles, Red, 400 SBC, TH 350, BIG heavy chrome bumpers..
Daily driver, parts chaser, traffic buster & your worst nightmare if you park too close to me at Walmart :D
1987 Turbo Limited--> Sold Nov 2001
 
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