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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 87-T with 100,000 miles on it, it presently is stock and has been all its life, I'm going to do some upgrades this winter, inj, pump,chip & k&n,. Should I replace timing chain & gears first,? If so what is good choice, I have read here that the double chain & roller could cause problems (the tensioner?). Any help would be appreciated.
Thamks Frank
 

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Good idea to do chain and maybe think about doing valve springs as well . I would stick to a HD stock steel chain if the motor is staying stock. Then maybe upgrade pump , reg , chip , boost guage . Get a Scanmaster and start tunning
.



[This message has been edited by KWIKR 1 (edited November 28, 2001).]
 

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Some much higher than 120K miles. But anyway use the steel single row and updated cam button and new tensioner.

Oh and drop the oil pan for the gasket.

New hoses and water pump is a good idea too.
 

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And when you drop the oil pan replace the oil pickup screen.

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ED BAKER
87-T-TYPE, PT54,MSD50's,Crane Billet Roller,JE forged20over,P&P Heads,Manley valves,Hemco 65mm& Acu65TB,V2 FM, P.I.9.5 -7disc,Jimmys Trans, new times soon.
93 PARK AVE"SUPERCHARGED"
67RS/SS350 CAMARO
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the info on timing chain replacement, would you get the new chain from GM or would the local auto parts store be ok?where and how much should I pay, for chain, tensioner & gear, is it a major job, any info, on the proper procedure & steps? anyone have a good scanmaster for sale? cheap.Thanks Frank
 

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i lost my timing set at 146,000. i went back with a $12 dynagear set from autozone. it's been working fine for the last 50,000. while you're at it, i'd go ahead and get an oil pump, strainer, and maybe a waterpump.
what's good is the name brands are good. the pump and strainer are melling and the gasket kit with new front seal is fel-pro.
one more hint, there's alot of mixed emotions about which oil pan gasket to use. i don't use any. there's some goop called "the right stuff". it's a gasket maker in a can. works just fine on the first try.


earl
 

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Time for an argument starting post.


I disagree with the willy-nilly parts replacement procedure. If it's worth your time and effort to replace the timing set, and all the ancillary things that should be replaced with the procedure, why not at least overhaul the engine? Inspect all the parts and replace as necessary. Clean everything up and put it back together. So there.



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He's only joking folks.....


I hope.....


This is a bit of work maybe a weekend for the backyard guy.

Rebuild the engine? I think not.....


Don't touch those bearings!
 

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I have a brand new in the box Speed Pro HD silent chain set for sale . email me if interested . Thanks.
 

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Why are you worried that at the 100,000 mile mark that the timing chain is the only thing that needs to be replaced? I'll bet there is a good deal of carbon buildup on the tops of the pistons and the valves (it's not gonna come off with top engine cleaner either). You will be removing almost everything on the front of the engine to replace the chain anyhow. Then how are your valve springs? Most people insist they are shot at this point, so replace those as well.

An engine overhaul isn't that expensive if you keep the damn thing away from the machine shops that tell you you need things that you don't. If you are gonna fool around with old cars get used to engine rebuilds, tranny rebuilds, etc. if you want them to run right.

Delude that!




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Most of these cars will go 200,000 miles if taken care of with the exception of the chain and the rocker shafts....

If you are worried about carbon build up...steam clean it....get it good and hot, pull the regulator hose off, stick a restrictor in it and rev it to about 2000 and stick the hose in a gallon of water...if you want to be fancy, order the decarbonizing kit from atr with the special decarbonizing solution....

denude that, simple Simon!




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Certain clearances and mystical stuff from the factory I don't touch on any car unless it dies.

Transmission inner guts. I can do seals and filters if I have to.


Bearings, pistons, rings all the neat magical stuff done at the factory that stays together on the street over 200K miles if you change your oil.

All the other stuff is once in a lifetime preventive maintenance that's it. Okay do the thermostat housing with the billet replacement and the rocker shafts and valve springs and new dome cover gaskets, hoses and vacuum lines no arguements there.

Don't touch the freakin' bearings!


Delice that simple syrup!
 

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After reading over your post again I say do nothing... Do your upgrades you listed injectors,fuelpump,chip and KN. This goal is still keeping you at high 12's or low 13's Change the valve springs since they are dead by now. When your chain goes or head gasket or motor blows up then tear the motor out and do it all the right way. "If it ain't broke don't fix it"

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ED BAKER
87-T-TYPE, PT54,MSD50's,Crane Billet Roller,JE forged20over,P&P Heads,Manley valves,Hemco 65mm& Acu65TB,V2 FM, P.I.9.5 -7disc,Jimmys Trans, new times soon.
93 PARK AVE"SUPERCHARGED"
67RS/SS350 CAMARO
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
http://www.modernmusclecar.net
 

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Originally posted by Steve Wood:
Most of these cars will go 200,000 miles if taken care of with the exception of the chain and the rocker shafts....

If you are worried about carbon build up...steam clean it....get it good and hot, pull the regulator hose off, stick a restrictor in it and rev it to about 2000 and stick the hose in a gallon of water...if you want to be fancy, order the decarbonizing kit from atr with the special decarbonizing solution....

denude that, simple Simon!
..and let the carbon chunks destroy your turbo wheel

You are simply making my point for me, oh surly one.

Why replace things on a piece by piece basis? Why assume the timing chain needs replaced and nothing else does? If you're getting good compression, vacuum, and it runs OK with no oil consumption, then why fool with it? If you are having problems then rebuild it, otherwise, leave it alone.

After looking at 2 110k mile timing chains that came from two of my cars, I don't assume that at 100k miles that the chain is shot. Some have stated that their nylon gears have shattered and clogged up their pickup screen, but whether this is from wear or other problems, I don't know. Some have cam lobes go flat, some don't (on the same type cam). I just don't see the proof that the chains are automatically shot at 100k.

Connecticut and Texas! Why they ever let them into the Union I'll never know!
Damn I love starting arguments.




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They let us in probably 'cause we hid the Constitution up here oh History and pizza deprived one.


Texas I have no clue how they got in there...


Both cars I have, the chains and gears were in perfect shape when replaced. Just a precaution when starting a buildup I guess.

I am sure if there was an easy way to see the darn thing in there not as many would be replaced at the magical 14 year or 100K mark. But we all know plastic degrades over time and with heat cycles and a single row steel is a good replacement.

Damm I love ending arguements, so don't make me draw my Pistols here, Colt single action...
 

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Listen, Mr. IQ of an Alabama Rock...no one said it went bad automatically at 100k. But, the odds are that it will go at any time at that point....so why wait til it goes bad, plugs up the oil pickup and bends all your valves when they bounce off the pistons?

It's called preventative maintenance in the real world.

If the car has oil pressure and reasonable compression, then why rebuild it? Chunks of carbon? Why should it have chunks of carbon in it....???? Riddle me that, Dumb Ass! You happy with the space this time, you altitudinally challenged troll!



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Originally posted by Steve Wood:
Listen, Mr. IQ of an Alabama Rock...no one said it went bad automatically at 100k. But, the odds are that it will go at any time at that point....so why wait til it goes bad, plugs up the oil pickup and bends all your valves when they bounce off the pistons?

It's called preventative maintenance in the real world.

If the car has oil pressure and reasonable compression, then why rebuild it? Chunks of carbon? Why should it have chunks of carbon in it....???? Riddle me that, Dumb Ass! You happy with the space this time, you altitudinally challenged troll!

YEA! TAKE THAT!
 
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