TIMING CHAIN REPLACE

Good idea to do chain and maybe think about doing valve springs as well . I would stick to a HD stock steel chain if the motor is staying stock. Then maybe upgrade pump , reg , chip , boost guage . Get a Scanmaster and start tunning .



[This message has been edited by KWIKR 1 (edited November 28, 2001).]

Replace with a single roller with a steel gear (just the stock replacement) and put a new tensioner and roller button on.

Some go bad at 70k and others at 120k but with the age of the engine, I would not wait any longer....it's a gamble.

If you see wear, check the pick up for clogging with nylon.

And when you drop the oil pan replace the oil pickup screen.

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ED BAKER
87-T-TYPE, PT54,MSD50's,Crane Billet Roller,JE forged20over,P&P Heads,Manley valves,Hemco 65mm& Acu65TB,V2 FM, P.I.9.5 -7disc,Jimmys Trans, new times soon.
93 PARK AVE"SUPERCHARGED"
67RS/SS350 CAMARO
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
http://www.modernmusclecar.net

Time for an argument starting post.

I disagree with the willy-nilly parts replacement procedure. If it's worth your time and effort to replace the timing set, and all the ancillary things that should be replaced with the procedure, why not at least overhaul the engine? Inspect all the parts and replace as necessary. Clean everything up and put it back together. So there.

He's only joking folks.....

I hope.....

This is a bit of work maybe a weekend for the backyard guy.

Rebuild the engine? I think not.....

Don't touch those bearings!

Why are you worried that at the 100,000 mile mark that the timing chain is the only thing that needs to be replaced? I'll bet there is a good deal of carbon buildup on the tops of the pistons and the valves (it's not gonna come off with top engine cleaner either). You will be removing almost everything on the front of the engine to replace the chain anyhow. Then how are your valve springs? Most people insist they are shot at this point, so replace those as well.

An engine overhaul isn't that expensive if you keep the damn thing away from the machine shops that tell you you need things that you don't. If you are gonna fool around with old cars get used to engine rebuilds, tranny rebuilds, etc. if you want them to run right.

Delude that!

Most of these cars will go 200,000 miles if taken care of with the exception of the chain and the rocker shafts....

If you are worried about carbon build up...steam clean it....get it good and hot, pull the regulator hose off, stick a restrictor in it and rev it to about 2000 and stick the hose in a gallon of water...if you want to be fancy, order the decarbonizing kit from atr with the special decarbonizing solution....

denude that, simple Simon!

Certain clearances and mystical stuff from the factory I don't touch on any car unless it dies.

Transmission inner guts. I can do seals and filters if I have to.

Bearings, pistons, rings all the neat magical stuff done at the factory that stays together on the street over 200K miles if you change your oil.

All the other stuff is once in a lifetime preventive maintenance that's it. Okay do the thermostat housing with the billet replacement and the rocker shafts and valve springs and new dome cover gaskets, hoses and vacuum lines no arguements there.

Don't touch the freakin' bearings!

Delice that simple syrup!

After reading over your post again I say do nothing... Do your upgrades you listed injectors,fuelpump,chip and KN. This goal is still keeping you at high 12's or low 13's Change the valve springs since they are dead by now. When your chain goes or head gasket or motor blows up then tear the motor out and do it all the right way. "If it ain't broke don't fix it"

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ED BAKER
87-T-TYPE, PT54,MSD50's,Crane Billet Roller,JE forged20over,P&P Heads,Manley valves,Hemco 65mm& Acu65TB,V2 FM, P.I.9.5 -7disc,Jimmys Trans, new times soon.
93 PARK AVE"SUPERCHARGED"
67RS/SS350 CAMARO
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
http://www.modernmusclecar.net

Originally posted by Steve Wood:
Most of these cars will go 200,000 miles if taken care of with the exception of the chain and the rocker shafts....

If you are worried about carbon build up...steam clean it....get it good and hot, pull the regulator hose off, stick a restrictor in it and rev it to about 2000 and stick the hose in a gallon of water...if you want to be fancy, order the decarbonizing kit from atr with the special decarbonizing solution....

denude that, simple Simon!

Click to expand...

..and let the carbon chunks destroy your turbo wheel

You are simply making my point for me, oh surly one.

Why replace things on a piece by piece basis? Why assume the timing chain needs replaced and nothing else does? If you're getting good compression, vacuum, and it runs OK with no oil consumption, then why fool with it? If you are having problems then rebuild it, otherwise, leave it alone.

After looking at 2 110k mile timing chains that came from two of my cars, I don't assume that at 100k miles that the chain is shot. Some have stated that their nylon gears have shattered and clogged up their pickup screen, but whether this is from wear or other problems, I don't know. Some have cam lobes go flat, some don't (on the same type cam). I just don't see the proof that the chains are automatically shot at 100k.

Connecticut and Texas! Why they ever let them into the Union I'll never know! Damn I love starting arguments.

They let us in probably 'cause we hid the Constitution up here oh History and pizza deprived one.

Texas I have no clue how they got in there...

Both cars I have, the chains and gears were in perfect shape when replaced. Just a precaution when starting a buildup I guess.

I am sure if there was an easy way to see the darn thing in there not as many would be replaced at the magical 14 year or 100K mark. But we all know plastic degrades over time and with heat cycles and a single row steel is a good replacement.

Damm I love ending arguements, so don't make me draw my Pistols here, Colt single action...