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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm at the last steps of putting my rebuilt motor back in the car with a new mechanic after the one who took it out and apart got "invited" to be a "guest" of the state for the next 11 months.

Looking at the diagrams that I have it shows a shim (part #1246249, #39 in attached) but its not clear which bolt it goes with. Of course the other problem is that I can't find the friggin thing in the remaining pile of bolts either.

So the questions are

Which bolt gets the shim?
Is it needed?
Where can I get one or do I have to make it?

Thanks
 

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9 times out of 10 the shim is not needed, if you have the OEM starter. You likely cannot find it because it wasn't there to start.

Hope this helps you. Happy 4th.
 

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OK! Who Farted Again??
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What shim?? Never even seen one?? :dunno:
 

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any shims, ( if needed)

go under the two bolts that hold the starter to the block,
to see if you need any shims, bolt up the starter to the block, with the flywheel installed, you will need to hold the bendix ( gear on the starter ) out ,so it engages the flywheel, what you want is the starter gear to not bottom out in the flywheel teeth, should have .030 clearance, if not, then add a shim. til you do,
one way is to put 12volts to inner small nut on solenoid and use a paper clip to check clearance, it should JUST fit between top of starter tooth,
and flywheel teeth.
hope that helps

cruzn57
 

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cruzn57 said:
go under the two bolts that hold the starter to the block,
to see if you need any shims, bolt up the starter to the block, with the flywheel installed, you will need to hold the bendix ( gear on the starter ) out ,so it engages the flywheel, what you want is the starter gear to not bottom out in the flywheel teeth, should have .030 clearance, if not, then add a shim. til you do,
one way is to put 12volts to inner small nut on solenoid and use a paper clip to check clearance, it should JUST fit between top of starter tooth,
and flywheel teeth.
hope that helps

cruzn57
I've always gotten a shim measurement tool with the starters I get. It's nothing more than a 1/8" steal rod that is used to measure the clearance between the starter gear nose and the flywheel (un-engaged). Which bolt the shim goes under is dictated by that clearance issue. I've only had to use a shim once (long one on both bolts) to increase the clearance.
 

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ahaeragain said:
I'm at the last steps of putting my rebuilt motor back in the car with a new mechanic after the one who took it out and apart got "invited" to be a "guest" of the state for the next 11 months.

Looking at the diagrams that I have it shows a shim (part #1246249, #39 in attached) but its not clear which bolt it goes with. Of course the other problem is that I can't find the friggin thing in the remaining pile of bolts either.

So the questions are

Which bolt gets the shim?
Is it needed?
Where can I get one or do I have to make it?

Thanks
If the old starter had no shims and worked well, replace the starter without shims. Shims can usually/always be added after motor is in the car, if needed.

Shim kits are dirt cheap and come w/instructions, at any good parts outlet.

This is what I would do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As I mentioned in my original post I did not take it apart so I don't know whether there was a shim or not. I think I saw one one the ground at one point but I don't know if I was imagining things or if it just was never there.

I got some shims for the parts store and will check the clearances using the paper clip or the 1/8 rod test and add as needed...

Thanks everyone for the help
 

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Highly unlikely that it had one... :)
 

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Shims used to come with a rebuilt starter, but alas--no more,,, now you typically have to buy a shim kit separately. When I recently replaced my starter, I just re-used the pair of 0.015" shims from off my old one, one shim for each bolt.

I do, however, routinely get several orange lights on knock gauge for cold start-up. :dunno:
 

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I have not had a car that did not do that...impossible to not have some noise generated when you hit the starter :)
 
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