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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After many posts and lots of help from all of you I think Im close to fixing the nightmare Gn,

Here is some at idle Numbers,Agian My problem is lack of power,Slow to spool.

Before Drive

Iac 23
Lv8 35
Tps .42
Intergrator 117
02 Volts 280-560 Mv All over the place
Maf 6 g/s
Blm 105
02 Counts 13 @ 1000


After Drive
Iac 27
Lv8 36
Tps .42
Intergrator 101
02 Volts 399-772 Mv All over the place
Maf 6 g/s
Blm 105
02 Counts 5-21 @ 1000 All over the place

Thanks again Guys !!

Steve
 

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BL105 is your problem.

Probable.. bad MAF unless your fuel pressure is set way higher than chip recommendations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Razor said:
BL105 is your problem.

Probable.. bad MAF unless your fuel pressure is set way higher than chip recommendations.
Maf is good Im 99% sure,Any way to check fuel pressure with out a gauge ?

Thks for the post

Steve
 

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Only way to really tell if MAF is good is swapping with a known good one.

Go to autozone and buy a fuel pressure test guage, theyre cheap in the scheme of things.. just think if you took your car in for service what theyre going to charge. Buy the toold needed to work on it and pay yourself.

A hole in the IC can also cuase your condition. To test IC.. remove from vehicle and take it to a radiator shop where they can pressurize it under water. Or you can try the cheapo fill with water and see if it leaks.

The MAF swap is the first thing I would do. And make sure a screen is in the MAF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Razor said:
Only way to really tell if MAF is good is swapping with a known good one.

Go to autozone and buy a fuel pressure test guage, theyre cheap in the scheme of things.. just think if you took your car in for service what theyre going to charge. Buy the toold needed to work on it and pay yourself.

A hole in the IC can also cuase your condition. To test IC.. remove from vehicle and take it to a radiator shop where they can pressurize it under water. Or you can try the cheapo fill with water and see if it leaks.

The MAF swap is the first thing I would do. And make sure a screen is in the MAF.

Swapped with a good one according to the owner,Stock chip in,
I will try my old maf on quick see what it says,
What should F/p be at ? Check it at the rail ?
 

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fsmotorsports said:
Put in old maf bLMS WENT TO 140.....?
Ahh...see.. now which one of the two is hosed.. at least 140 is better than 105.. hundred times better.

Fuel pressure on stock chip is 37 lbs line off. Aftermarket chip.. you need to get in touch with the chip maker.

Reset the computer.. try the old MAF.. drive the car around.. see how it works. 140 is a tad high.. more than likely vacuum leak related to get it down to the 124-132 range.
 

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128 is ideal
anything under 128 is lean
anything over 128 is rich
your 02 reaching only the 500mv range would also indicate lean
50-800mv is what I always see day in day out
 

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You seem to be getting some erroneous/bad info.

read this

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/faq/BLMINT.html

a reading of 105 does not mean your maf is bad. Also, readings less than 128 indicate that the ecm is removing fuel to correct what it has perceived to be a rich condition, while blms over 128 indicate that the ecm is adding fuel to correct for what it perceives to be a lean condition.

As long as the blms are within the correction range of the ecm, there should not be an effect upon performance.

Also, if you read the above link, you will understand that an idle reading is just that...it does not have any relationship on launch.

Did you ever check the brake stall of the converter? Set the scantool to rpm, put the car in drive with your foot on the brake and push the gas pedal toward the floor gradually...watch the rpm on the scan tool and the boost gauge...see what the rpm and boost are when the rear wheels overcome the brakes and begin to turn...

don't take five minutes to do this as it generates heat in the tranny...do it in 10 seconds, or less :)
 

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Steve Wood said:
Did you ever check the brake stall of the converter? Set the scantool to rpm, put the car in drive with your foot on the brake and push the gas pedal toward the floor gradually...watch the rpm on the scan tool and the boost gauge...see what the rpm and boost are when the rear wheels overcome the brakes and begin to turn...

don't take five minutes to do this as it generates heat in the tranny...do it in 10 seconds, or less :)
Do at night...headers glow if you do it over 10 secs :crazy:

Cheap and easy way to find a vac leak....small funnel and attach a 3' hose..put funnel to ear and move hose around. You will hear the leak. :yup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Stall

Steve Wood said:
You seem to be getting some erroneous/bad info.

read this

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/faq/BLMINT.html

a reading of 105 does not mean your maf is bad. Also, readings less than 128 indicate that the ecm is removing fuel to correct what it has perceived to be a rich condition, while blms over 128 indicate that the ecm is adding fuel to correct for what it perceives to be a lean condition.

As long as the blms are within the correction range of the ecm, there should not be an effect upon performance.

Also, if you read the above link, you will understand that an idle reading is just that...it does not have any relationship on launch.

Did you ever check the brake stall of the converter? Set the scantool to rpm, put the car in drive with your foot on the brake and push the gas pedal toward the floor gradually...watch the rpm on the scan tool and the boost gauge...see what the rpm and boost are when the rear wheels overcome the brakes and begin to turn...

1850 Seems to be the break loose point,
Again Thanks

Steve
 

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Looks like someone did some work on the tranny and installed a standard replacement converter which is not the same as the original converter. Happens frequently as the replacement converters are all for non turbo cars.

It should stall around 2200...that will allow it to build a little boost and spool much quicker.

Sounds like you need to get a converter with some more stall. :)
 
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