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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These numbers are after a good run, fully warmed up and at an idle. They came from a SM2 scantool fixed in the car. My car is an 87 GN. Please offer any suggestions, thanks.

O2's - 760 and bouncing all over the map
AF - 7
L8 - 49
Bat - 13.3
Int - 110
BL - 90
CLT - 198
Ats - 101
RPM - 790
tps - 0.46
IAC - 37
cc - 149
MAL - 00

I am having somw problems with knock under hard acceleration. If I ease into the throttle and take my time ten all is fine, no knock. I am running 42.5# injectors with a Walboro 340 with fuel pressure set at 42 #'s with the line off. My boost is set at 18# on my gauge.
 

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Brad you seem a little rich and you temps (198)are up there . I had my car out yesterday with Paul doing about 4-5 WOT and my temp didn't go over 161 with the V4 . Try to dial in your TPS and IAC a little tighter as well
.

[This message has been edited by KWIKR 1 (edited April 28, 2002).]
 

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Numbers from idle really don't tell us much, if anything, about wot.

The blms show that the thing is running very rich and the ecm is pulling out the maximum fuel possible in order to try to get it back to a normal idle mixture. Red A's chips are known to be fat like that at idle.

18# of boost is more than most of us can run on 93 octane...16# would be more like it.

If you can ease into it and it does not do it, but does it when you floor it, then you have to consider the possibility of false knock, which often occurs when first floored or on a kick down/up shift. Such things as bad ds engine mounts or dp hitting the control arm or firewall are prime suspects.

If you put more octane in the tank and it goes away, it is probably real. If it still does it, it is probably false.

If you lower the boost a couple of pounds and it goes away, it is probably real, if it does not, it is probably false.

Mass Air flow is also a bit high as normal numbers at idle would be 4-5 gm/sec. Is this a stock maf or a rebuilt maf?

The O2s should jump around back and forth across .441 and staying close to 760 would indicate that it is rich as do the blms.





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To rich, to hot.
Check your blm in drive, stopped, after warmup. You should be close to 128.
The 02s will be all over the place as well as the cc. cc should cycle through a a good pace to indicate a working 02 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys, this is great so far. As far as the coolant temp goes, today it didn't get over 165 degrees, so I don't know why it got that hot the other day. I am running a new drivers side mount and a tie down strap. The MAF is off a 96 Impala SS with a translater. The downpipe is a 3" ATR, but it shows no sign of hitting anything including the control arm. I am also running Sunoco Ultra 94 octane gas (Canadian) so the octane should be good. If the car is running rich should I just turn the fuel pressure down? Are the 42.5# injectors to big for a stock turbo set-up? Thanks to everyone and for the help.
 

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I've got the 96 Impala LT1 maf and the translator and it will not run (it will but stalls and bucks) on position 3 (3" no base fuel change ) . only runs on 0 (3.5" no base fuel setting) . go figure .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Steve and Tim, I am confused now for sure. I am running the Impala SS 3" MAF with the translater. It just says translater on the box, I bought it from Jack Cotton this winter. It says nothing in the destructions about setting the dip pin switches. Are we talking about the same animal here or are you guys thinking of the Translater plus? Just making sure....
 

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Brad I'll send you the instructions for the MAF Translator . You have only 4 micro switches and 2 dial controls on yours (Translator) to worry about . The Translator + has the 4 dial controls and 4 micro switchs .

[This message has been edited by KWIKR 1 (edited April 29, 2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the instructions Tim, my translater did not come with that information. Much appreciated. It is guys like you,Steve and others that make this a great resource of knowledge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Tim and Steve, thanks a million guys! I had dip switch #3 set to "off", now it is "on" and the #'s are better for AF. I put in my Red Armstrong street 93 chip and set the IAC and TPS better. I dropped my fuel 2 pounds and turned the boost down to 17# and now the GN runs like a rocket. I have the alky set to come on at 14# boost and I now have no detonation at all. I have also filled up the tank with fresh 94 Octane fuel. I am now getting closer to where I want to be and I am sooooooooo happy! Now I will drive it for a while and you guys can offer further tuning hints please...... Thanks again men.
Brad
 

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Brad , once things get stable . start cranking up the boost with that alcohol kit
watch your 02's and knock ! you should be able to get a few more pounds of boost .

[This message has been edited by KWIKR 1 (edited April 29, 2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Tim, I had the boost up to 21# with 0.9 degrees knock but that is not for me. I am shooting for 18# rock solid steady. I know that I can go more but I want to get some more easy break in miles on Rogers rebuild before I go for broke, if you know what I mean.
 

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