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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I see oil under the rear axle and the sides and near the plug. Hopefully this is just the gasket needing replacing?

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maybe, but I would be sure it is not the pinion shaft seal. If it is, be sure to check for wear in the pinion bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't know a lot about rear ends... where is the pinion bearing located?
 

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Originally posted by smokin6:
I don't know a lot about rear ends... where is the pinion bearing located?
In the front of the differential. The pinion seal is the seal around the shaft right where the driveshaft connects to the rear. If it's leaking there, you'll need a heckuva impact wrench or a big breaker bar to get the pinion nut off, then you can change the seal and inspect the pinion bearing.

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Are you talking about at the ends of the axles? If so, your axles maybe have been worn out by low or dirty rear end fluid. If this is the case, you will need to buy "bearing savers" or new axles. Oh ya, and don't forget to keep the rear end fluid fresh and at the correct level!

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok i just finished changing gear fluid and no more chatter. But when i took the pan off and inspected the magnet, it was black and had some tiny metal shavings. Thats bad huh?
 

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Hi, old thread, in the process of changing the rear end cover and fluid, wanted to do the seal, anyone know what size that huge nut is that is after the drive shaft to the start of the rear end. Or is their a other way to change the pinion seal? thanks
 

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NUT, PROP SHAFT PIN GR FLG GM# 1260823

I cant find the size, but I believe that is the part number of the nut. If someone could help me and find the size. :)
 

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Nicker said:
NUT, PROP SHAFT PIN GR FLG GM# 1260823

I cant find the size, but I believe that is the part number of the nut. If someone could help me and find the size. :)
1 1/4" You need a thin wall socket. Don't for get you need to preload the pinion bearing when you re-install. You will need to buy an in-lb torque wrench and an adapter for 3/8" to 1/2" so you can put the big socket on. Set to 20-25 inch-pounds of preload. If not done correct your rear will be toast before the summer.
 

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The collar is crushed already so that won't be an issue. Before you remove the nut have the rear brake drums off so there is no brake drag. Put your in-lb torque wrench on the big nut and match the torque click release to the drag of the flange turning. It should be between 20-30 in-lbs. When you reassemble after changing the seal you will have to keep tightening and checking to repeat the original drag of the torque wrench. Call me if I lost you :cool:
 

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Okay, I think I might need a torque wrench like you said, and probally air tools. I asked some local people and my friend said he used to do it all the time with open rearends, and its basically having a feel for it and torqueing to spec, i dono im still lost, im just going to fill the rearend up and wait a week until my friend can do it in his shop. Better to be done and watch someone do it with experience then try and messup and then be stuck and screwed. Thanks again ed for trying to help, tho I think this might be out of my league with my limited tools. :D
 

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True, I did many rears and set the drag by "feel" But As a novice or the beginner get the proper tool. This is also a job that should be done on a lift with power tools. A pro can do it in a 1/2 hour and you will be going crazy all day trying to get the big nut off and on. :crazy: :sw:
 

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Yeppp thats what I was thinking, I got the socket for the nut, but without other tools and experience, im going to leave it be. It will be done next week, hope the rear end fluid does not leak out fast, that stuff is thick and smells pretty rancid.
 
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