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Resident Embraer Driver
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Havent been driving the car much, Car is leaking lots of fluids and I got a new job.

Am I going to need any special tools to change the pinion seal? Hears what I'm thinking.

Pull the driveshaft, remove the yoke on the rearend, remove seal with screwdriver. anthing else to that?

Seems like I put mobil 1 in the rearend and it all pissed out, it even wined a little bit on the way home from the shop, were I had to replace the busted tranny lines, what a mess, I guess I wont need rust proofing anytime soon, I looked like spy hunter with the oil slick and smoke screen going down the road ugh

Joe
 

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Premium Member
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basically that is it. Be careful when inserting the new seal and don't bend it or kink it anywhere around the perimeter. Slow and Gentle.
 

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I believe you have to pull the pinion nut to get the yoke off? If so, you can screw up the set-up on the ring and pinion - especially if a crush sleeve is used to load the bearings.
 

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BUICK LOVER
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bass:
I believe you have to pull the pinion nut to get the yoke off? If so, you can screw up the set-up on the ring and pinion - especially if a crush sleeve is used to load the bearings.
While this may be possible, I wouldn't worry about it. I changed my pinion seal twice over the past couple years with no problems. The main difficulty with this job is breaking loose the nut holding the flange. Pretty difficult unless the car is on a lift. I was able to do it with the car jacked up. I had to use a long pipe on my breaker bar to get it loose. Maybe a super-duper impact gun would work. You may not be able to get it done without putting on a lift.
 

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impact gun all the way...much easier...don't worry about the pinion crush.
 

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So easy cavemen can do it
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i just had my rear end serviced due to bad carrier bearings...they put it all back together and they put in this really thick blue rear end fluid...i changed it to mobil 1 synthetic (the stuff is like water) and now it's leaking big time all over the place...my mufflers, exhaust pipes, rear end housing are all covered in fluid oil...it even drips to the floor when the car sits for a long time...i never had this problem before i took it to the shop...did they screw something up? do i need a new pinion seal as well because that's the exact spot where i see the massive oil puddle...right under where the driveshaft connects to the rear...

it wasn't leaking with the thick blue fluid though...should i go back to that and not worry about the seal???
 

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So easy cavemen can do it
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i forgot to mention that when i put in the new mobil 1 synthetic gear oil i had to add 3 quart bottles plus a 4 oz bottle of posi additive and it STILL wasn't full at the top of the fill hole...does this mean anything? did my overfilling cause the leak and now its coming out places it shouldn't be due to overfilling or is the seal just bad...i don't know what to do here...i don't want to spend another 200 bucks on having this pinion seal replaced if necessary after spending 300 to have all carrier and pinion bearings replaced...i guess i will try the thicker oil first and see what happens...how much oil is supposed to be in the rear end??? do you fill it to the very top???
 
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Three quarts of oil should be flowing out of the fill hole on the side. The level should be right at the bottom of the fill hole or very close.
Over filling will make it leak but not bad.
I have found Mobil 1 synthetics to flow past seals. Try a mixture of the heavy and the thick
stuff. They will mix.
Also on the left side axle tube there is a breather vent make sure it is not blocked, will cause major leak!


-------------

Something turbo this way comes headbang
 

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For some reason, I thought the rear end held two quarts of fluid and one bottle of additive.

Use the correct wt oil...should be 80-90 or whatever is closest to that since I am guessing and it might be 85-90 or such. :)
 

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Growing my Mullet!
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1-1/4" - My wussy $30 impact gun took the pinion nut off no problem.

I bought a $20 6" Universal Gear puller to remove the pinion yoke.

I really was worried about it not coming apart, and in my case it came apart no problem.
 

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Turbocharged BrunoStachel
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Double check your vent,the plastic tube looking thing on the axle tube or hog nose,and make sure it isn't clogged. If you over filled the rear, and that is possible, than a clogged vent would make it seap past the point of least resistance like the pinion and axle seals. I know some stock car buddies of mine that point the left side of the axle down just so they can sneak an extra quart of lube in when filling it.
 

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I changed one in one of my trucks, took the yoke nut off with an impact gun and put it back on with the same, mistake!!!

The rearend crapped out about 20 miles later, I guess I overtightened the nut/crush washers that I was told I couldn't do. Live and learn eh?
 

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d0n_3d said:
i forgot to mention that when i put in the new mobil 1 synthetic gear oil i had to add 3 quart bottles plus a 4 oz bottle of posi additive and it STILL wasn't full at the top of the fill hole..

Top of the fill hole? Where are you filling at? you remove the horizontaly mounted fill plug from the side of the dif. It is needs a 3/8 square drive. Is that where you are filling it at?? It would be basicly impossible to fill it to the top of the hole because the fluid would be running back out.

The paperwork included with my aftermarket eaton posi unit specificly said not to use synthetic fluid. Is there any problem using it with the factory posi?
 

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For thinner sockets, do you mean non-air impact (since they generally are thinner)?

Is the pinion flange a press-on, or hammered on, and that's why it requires a puller?
 
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