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a new wastegate hose assembly. I installed my Walbro 340 pump, hot wire kit, and adj fuel pres reg yesturday. I also installed new boost lines. 2quik6 helped me install all the stuff and noticed that my old boost lines were on bassackwards. Prior to installing the new goodies, car ran fine and had pretty consistant boost. 2quik6 also noticed that I had my adj wastegate rod turned in pretty far.
Once everything was installed, I took her out for a run and as soon as I got into the throttle the boost gauge went nuts, jumping around in the 25 to 30 range. Needless to say, she detonated like mad.
We went back to his house and he turn the wastegate down till the eye of the wastegate arm lined up with puck link. Took it back out and she was still slamming up to 20 before resting at a steady 15 or so.
He suggested that I run one vac line from turbo to wastegate, taking the new boost lines out of the picture. I did that today and when I ran her, the boost wouldn't go over 6. Remember that we turned the boost almost all the way down, so the 6 makes sense.

What ya all think? The Y fitting in the boost lines bad? It's brand new from Kirban. Or could they be on backwards? The straight line off the Y goes to the turbo, right?

Looking forward to your replies, thanks in advance.



------------------
~Rob Baker~
87 Grand National
 

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you have the lines crossed.

The straight part goes to the wastegate, and the branch off part that creates the 'y' goes to the turbo (compressor).
 

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the restriction hole in the "Y" should be .050-.054" in size as I recall.
Some of the new ones were too small as i recall and caused overboost.

Be sure you hook the "Y" up correctly. If you reverse it, typically you will not get over 12# of boost. You should have at least a tenth of inch of tension on the wastegate arm to keep the puck closed during spool up.
 

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I've always heard and used "Straight through to the Turbo".

Y part goes to the wastegate actuator arm. Wastegate solenoid line goes straight through to the turbo housing.

Just my .02.



[This message has been edited by salvageV6 (edited July 22, 2001).]
 

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You're both Nivek but we have a high degree of tolerance.

If the boost control is plumbed tuner style,
the boost should be equal to the spring tension. About 12 for an actuator with a good spring. If it is 6, I would guess that you did not have enuf preload on the spring-need about a tenth of inch of pull to hook the rod over the wastegate arm. Otherwise you may have the gate bypassing all the time.

When using the rod length as the boost control mechanism, I.e. tuner style, you will have to shorten it quite a bit to raise the boost level. When using the wastegate solenoid/chip to control boost, you can shorten the rod to raise the programmed level and it will normally not take as much shortening. Same thing when using a bleeder valve altho one normally just opens the bleed.
 
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