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Surely you jest
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I plan on doing the following on a fully street car and welcome any suggestions or comments:

- front timing cover replacement
- billet double roller w/o tensioner

- stock oil pump rebuild w/bypass left open
- booster plate
- Biggie Oil Filter Kit

Of course, I'll be dropping the pan, cleaning the pickup screen and replacing the rear main seal with neoprene.

Thanks in advance.


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87 GN (50K miles)
-TE-44, Dutt. necked IC, MSD 50's, THDP, ATR 2.5" exhaust, Boost/knock gauges, Tlink, Hotwired RA XPFP, BGC AFPR, Lubrant 93 chip, Translator Plus, LT1 MAF, ATR Bad Boy cold air kit, Vac brakes, Tie down strap
 

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Surely you jest
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You may be right for another reason, Steve. I purchased a Comp Cams billet DR and attempted to put it on tonight.

To start off, the stock style gears that I perchased replaced the original gear set perfectly...it all lined up.The Comp Cams billet DR, however, was slightly off center (cam 1/8" to the left and crank 1/8" to the right). I could rotate the crank slightly and get them to line up, but when I put the stock style back on, but what position is that putting the valves?

Also, the chain was very tight. The holes on the cam gear were about 1/8" lower than the corrsponding threaded holes on the cam (both sides) when the kit was in place. What gives?


[This message has been edited by *JOKER* (edited April 22, 2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Errrrr, Steve? I can't read your post. Thanks.
 

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Originally posted by Steve Wood:
As I have always had a bad opinion of Comp Cams, I would be tempted to say lousy quality control....the chain should be pretty tight, tho. It will stretch like I said.

I cannot remember if it is RollMaster or Dyna Gear or such that is supposed to stretch less.

If you use that one, you better degree the cam and get it timed right.
strange, neither could I but when I refreshed it..it came up



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Aren't all of our members corrupt?
Maybe Zap forgot to reuse his sheep smelling condom when he checked the lifter bores and corrupted his own member?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm at a cross-roads here. I can muscle the Comp Cams DR into place and then degree the cam (something I don't anything about) or I can use the stock-stlye gears with a new GM tensioner.

My conflict is that I've heard (from one source) stories of aftermarket (Pep Boys, Advance, Auto Zone, etc.) cast metal stock-style timing gear sets chipping and cracking.

As far as GM goes, I've checked the price of GM's timing gear sets. It's about $150!
Come on!
 

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Fully street car, single row steel gears. New chain and tensioner.

I got mine from Postons.

Second one the shop did with whatever the parts house sent them. I am not worried about cracks in the steel gear.

The stock 2 nylons that were removed were both fully intact on my cars with over 110K on each when removed.

Just my .02.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks, Salvage.

After putting on and taking off the Comp Cams DR and then the stock-style gear sets several times this morning, I've realized that I don't feel comfortable with the DR.

The stock style matches up perfectly. If there were steel stock-style timing gears being eaten, I'd have most likely seen in it posted somewhere.

Just a guy trying to make a sale, I guess.
 

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Check on a DynaGear #73019.

Klien Buick as a major vendor to the gnttype list for many years. This is the set Zak sold for a steel gear timing set. It is the same one from Autozone. A lot of happy users of this kit.

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David Chase, Silver 6
87T, 79 Sport Coupe
 

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Don't listen to me listen to Steve W., he warned you first.


Good luck. Don't fear the single row.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Silver6. Have you heard anything bad about Melling timing gears? That's what's in there.
 

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I've checked several timing gear sets and the "Rolmaster" gets my vote. My old gear set changed my cam sensor timing on each revolution.(with the stock tensioner) My RM set degreed exactly and no tensioner is in my engine now. In fact the mounting hole is plugged with a set screw now. With the RM you must grind away 1/4" of the reinforcing rib near the cam sensor hole in the front cover. Don't use any large gears in the oil pump, buy TA's booster plate and run stock gears only. My engine has 24# oil pressure at hot idle and 65# at 5500 rpm. I sent my front cover to TA and they blue printed it and you see the results! The oiling system is critical in any externally mounted oil pump engine. Good Luck!
 

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Melling makes good parts. Most of us have used their oil pump kits.

I used the DynaGear on my 83T Type rebuild and it fit so nice it was a shame to install a dampner on it.

A worn timing set is a worn timing set no matter what brand it is and your timing will fluctuate.

I certainly go along with spending some time on a new front cover. The aftermarket one I bought needed a lot of work inside the oil port drillings. The main one from the filter adapter to the block was nearly closed off when I received it. It has a 90* bend where the two drillings come together and it there was only a very small hole.

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David Chase, Silver 6
87T, 79 Sport Coupe

[This message has been edited by Silver 6 (edited April 25, 2002).]
 

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My experience with the "Melling" large gears was a scored oil pump cavity and severe gear bind. They are now in my scrape pile! The stock gears, the proper oiling mods, tight bearing clearances are all you need to build good oil pressure. Sorry, but these are my experiences. My engine does have all the passages modified and the #2 and #3 main oil passages drilled to 5/16" from 1/4". The front oil passage cup plugs are replaced with allen headed cut down pipe plugs, lock-tited in place. (very important to cut down these plugs so as not to block the oil galleys, TA sells these plugs) The most important things are the gears and cover mods. I also run the large oil filter and found it really helped the oiling, 3# or more. I measured my oil pressure with a liquid filled very accurate guage right at the side galley fitting. Good Oiling, not the track! Gene
 
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