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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
..while installing my control arms.

1) I noticed that I have what looks like orange silicone between my CAT and the exaust. Is this normal? I've never heard of using silicone for exaust before, but maybe that's what high temp silicone is for.

2) While I was looking for the bolt I dropped into the frame, for some reason I looked into my exaust pipe. I noticed that I have some shinny little droplits(solid) in my pipe. What could they be, is this normal? I'm thinking lead from racegas, but I've only put unleaded.

The control arms weren't too hard to put in and I learned that I have aftermarket springs. I feel kinda bad that I really didn't follow the instructions. They said to take off the springs and shocks, but I needed a spring compressor to thake them out. I guess the aftermarket springs are a little taller. I actually left the springs and shocks on while I changed each control arm with the floor jack under the rearend. Well, it worked anyways.

Two tools(outside of the usual socket/wrench sets) I recomend for this job: impact gun and hammer.

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1987 GN 14" K&N, adj. wastegate, adj. FPR, XP Armstrong hotwired, 160*-stat, Hooker 2.5" catback exaust, Thrasher chips, shift kit, trans cooler, vdo boost/oil/temp guages, scanmaster II, Kirban's front/rear frame braces, GNX wanna-be rims, and the rest is stock..except for all the stuff that doesn't last 15yrs.

1987 Cavalier Z24 daily driver. 3-chamber flowmaster and 135db worth of stereo.

Shaun
 

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I always leave them in but you don't need a compressor on the rears...if you take the bottom of the shock loose and let the axle down, the springs will be loose with just a slight drop of the axle beyond where the shock normally limits the travel. With my Eibachs which are a little shorter, I can rotate the springs with the shocks hooked up and the axle dropped as far as the shocks will let it go.

Normally, there is no gasket between the cat and the y-pipe. If it was leaking, someone probably put a little hi temp in there to stop it. I always use hi temp on the headers instead of an aftermarket gasket.





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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, I did disconnect the lower shock bolts and I lowered the rear until it stopped. The springs felt like they had little to no stored energy, but I could not get them out. So I connected the shocks and let the floor jack do all the work. I'd say most likely they are the variable rate springs Kirban sells...everything else on the car usually turns out to be. The control arms are in, so I'm happy.
 

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You can get the rear springs out easier and install longer ones easier by jacking up the tire into the rear fenderwell. Obviously you use a board on top of a bottle jack to distribute the force. Only has to go up or tire goes down actually an inch or so. Then they will fall right out.


Learned that one the hard way.
 
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