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Habitual Line Stepper
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i've been chasing a cutting out problem.i changed the crank sensor and the battery+/alternator/ecm wiring harness.
the coolant temp sensor was changed at the same time as it was popping a code.it is generic,but is reding within 1 degree of my mat on t-link.

i changed all of this stuff at the same time.

i now have no spark.fuses are good.i am popping no codes.

help.

thanx,sean


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84gn,spearco fmic,ta-60,ported tb,lee thompson headers/3"dp/deltagate,42.5#inj.,mm chip,87 ecm,trans+,3"maf,3"maf pipe,v8 radiator/electric fan,kb ramair,fiberglass bumpers,turbolink,hotwired walbro 340,accufab fpr,new valvesprings
 

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General Useless POS
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Originally posted by WFO:
i've been chasing a cutting out problem.i changed the crank sensor and the battery+/alternator/ecm wiring harness.
the coolant temp sensor was changed at the same time as it was popping a code.it is generic,but is reding within 1 degree of my mat on t-link.

i changed all of this stuff at the same time.

i now have no spark.fuses are good.i am popping no codes.

help.

thanx,sean


Got the crank sensor on the right slot?



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Jim Testa
1986 Regal T-Type
Stock block, Turbomotion ported heads, PTE 210 roller cam, GNT ported intake, PTE Plenum, 70mm TB, PTE FM IC, MSD 50's, TE61, TPS-TEC, JT Chip, JT 200R4, Vigilante 2800 LU convertor, JT Boxed lower arms, working on girlde....
 

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Habitual Line Stepper
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401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
jim--

it's the same one that it was in before,i'm not sure if the 84 sensors look the same as the 87's.they do have 2 slots,but only one has the aluminum guides on both sides,the other has one guide and a short plastic piece.the sensor i took off had the interruptor ring travelling between the two aluminum pieces so that's how i put the new one in.think i should try the other slot for shits and grins?

thanx,sean

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84gn,spearco fmic,ta-60,ported tb,lee thompson headers/3"dp/deltagate,42.5#inj.,mm chip,87 ecm,trans+,3"maf,3"maf pipe,v8 radiator/electric fan,kb ramair,fiberglass bumpers,turbolink,hotwired walbro 340,accufab fpr,new valvesprings
 

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it would be worth a try to see with a test light if you are getting power to ECM and make sure your crank sensor connection is tight. LOL.
 

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Habitual Line Stepper
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401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the ecm is getting power,as t-link is working.i even disconnected the power wire while t-link was running and it said the ecm wasn't getting power.i would guess this means it's getting juice?

as for the crank sensor wires i've checked and re-checked them.the only thing i'm worried about is that my car apparently had a fire before i owned it and there's a shitload of splices in the wiring,including 2 in one of the crank sensor wires.if i was to turn the key on and probe the wires,does anybody know what the wires should "read"?

i'm gonna go check some more things,keep the ideas coming,please!

later,sean

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84gn,spearco fmic,ta-60,ported tb,lee thompson headers/3"dp/deltagate,42.5#inj.,mm chip,87 ecm,trans+,3"maf,3"maf pipe,v8 radiator/electric fan,kb ramair,fiberglass bumpers,turbolink,hotwired walbro 340,accufab fpr,new valvesprings
 

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On the crank sensor, Dark green wire terminal A is +12volts, Gray wire redstripe is terminal C and Ground. The Black wire terminal B is the signal output and will be +10 or so or close to ground depending on if the interruptor ring is in front of it or not. I have no idea what this wire will read if you unplug it from the harness and probe it, I wouldn't do that check it with the sensor on it. Good luck. This is from the 1987 manual.
 

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coil pack, module?

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87 WO2 TURBO-T REGAL....POSTON HEADERS, 2 1/2" CAT BACK, HOLLOWED CAT, 3" DOWNPIPE WITH FUNKY ELBOW, TA-62 TURBO, BIGGER INLET, K&N 9" CONE FILTER, ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REG, ADJUSTABLE WASTE GATE, BOOST REGULATOR, XP PUMP, HOT WIRE KIT, REDS 93 CHIP, 3000 STALL CONVERTER, SHIFT KIT, POSI REAR, NEED INJECTORS BADLY STOCK FOR NOW
 

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my manual states: diconnect crank sensor harness connector. ignion on. momentarily jump crank sensor harness terms b to c several times with inj. test light. test light should flash each time crank sensor harn. terms. are jumped. if light blinks check for open or short to grond[term c ]. if that is ok it is faulty crank sensor or conn. if light is off check voltage between crank sensor harness conn. terms. b and c which should be 6-8 volts. if not it may be ign. module or it's conn. as the crank sensor conn. is viewed from the front connectors are labeled from left to right 'a' 'b' 'c' this is for 86 turbo regals.
 
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