[1FastGN]

I recently purchased a 86 GN, and I was wondering about the TE 45 turbo. How does this compare to stock? I am new to GN's and am beginnnig the learning process!! Below are some of the specs of the car:

Re-Built engine by Lou Czarnota,
bored .30 over, Forged Pistons, Steel Mains, Ported Heads, 206 Cam, 55# Injectors, TE-45 Turbo, V-4 Intercooler, ATR Header, Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, 3.5" Maf and Translator, Scanmaster, TH Downpipe, 2 3/4 Dynaflow dual exhaust, SMC Alchy, New race built tranny by DRW Transmissions, Street chip, race chip.


PS--Anyone located in Northern CA??
Thanks!
--Ryan

 

[Nasty Wendy]

Keeping it short.....
TE45a vs Stock
think
Godzilla vs Gecko


several members here run the 45 and I'm sure they can help out with details like what stall converter is required.... powersix

 

[scott wile]

Check out my specs....Wendy is right...TE45a is a monster eek!

-scott wile

 

[Orlando_87GN]

Depends on what kind of performance you are looking for. I imagine a TE-45 with the wrong combo will take the fun right out of driving your car. Tell us your goals you have in mind and I am sure some people can recommend the most well suited turbo for your needs. Interesting how 90% of us will never need more than a TA-49 or TE-44....

<small>[ October 21, 2003, 07:40 PM: Message edited by: Orlando_87GN ]</small>

 

[ULYCYC]

I assume you have a 3600-3800 stall converter? If not then you will have spool up problems. The TE45 will get you to low low 10's with the correct setup. Your builder and trans shop are well respected in the Buick world. Maybe a call back to them will also help guide you.

 

[Steve Wood]

There is a difference between 45 and 45A. The 45 has a 63mm compressor and the 45A has a 66mm wheel.

The 45 likes at least a 3400 rpm stall and the 45 likes 3600-3800.

The 45 may have some compressor surge problems (not sure with the V4 IC) and the 45A may not be quite so bad.

If you have enuf converter so that it stalls enuf to avoid much turbo lag, it would seem you have a pretty good combo that might break into the tens with the right chip, race fuel, and slicks IF everything is working right from the engine to the rear end.

 

[ES]

If this is the car that I think it is, it sounded like it was put together right and you got a good deal on it!

 

[1FastGN]

Thanks all for your input. I am not sure at this point what the stall is. Just got the car on Friday. I bought it from a guy down in Southern Cali. I was told to join message boards like this because you Turbo Buick owners are very smart and warm to newcomers.

My goal is to have a fun car at the track, but something I can drive there as well! I am not looking have an extremely fast GN. Just something consistent and fairly reliable

Thanks Again
--Ryan
86 GN Newbie!

 

[The Radius Kid]

1FastGN:
Thanks all for your input. I am not sure at this point what the stall is. Just got the car on Friday. I bought it from a guy down in Southern Cali. I was told to join message boards like this because you Turbo Buick owners are very smart and warm to newcomers.

My goal is to have a fun car at the track, but something I can drive there as well! I am not looking have an extremely fast GN. Just something consistent and fairly reliable

Thanks Again
--Ryan
86 GN Newbie!

That's like saying I bought this sledge hammer to drive in finishing nails.
I f Lou built it and the trans was done by Don Wang,it's gonna haul and be reliable as a stone with proper care.
Call DRW and find out what converter is in it.
You're gonna like that puppy.
I've got a 63e[45] and I love it with my V-1.

 

[J Banning]

1FastGN:
...Re-Built engine by Lou Czarnota,
bored .30 over, Forged Pistons, Steel Mains, Ported Heads, 206 Cam, 55# Injectors, TE-45 Turbo, V-4 Intercooler, ATR Header, Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, 3.5" Maf and Translator, Scanmaster, TH Downpipe, 2 3/4 Dynaflow dual exhaust, SMC Alchy, New race built tranny by DRW Transmissions, Street chip, race chip.

VERY nice combo. With the right convertor your car will really move. Should be in the 10's easily.

 

[ILBCNU6]

I run the TE45A John Craig built one. Like Steve said I do have some surge problems but this thing really pulls hard. No track times yet as other problem have plaged me! Those builders have good experience with TR cars for sure! A good built car in my book. Gene

 

[gnx7]

Welcome to the "dark side" and purchasing your new beast. The buildup sounds great and it can be used as a daily driver and be totally tame as long as you keep your foot out of it. Most turbos at pump gas level (91 in CA) no matter what the size perform very similar to each other and it isn't until you go to 20psi+ that you will see a big difference. In your case probably 150hp+ vs. running 15psi to 25psi and high timing.

I would not turn up the boost on your car any higher than 15-16psi on 91 octane with a low timing chip to be safe. If you want to run higher boost/timing look into either alchy injection or Propain injection as there are a few kits out.

If you don't have a scantool get one. ScanMaster, TurboLink, DirectScan are all good ways to tune. ScanMaster is a self contained unit about the size of a radar detector, and the TL and DS need a laptop to run the programs that then plug into the service port under your dash/console that finally ties in with the ECM.

With all those mods your car should run some high 10's on 100 octane (unleaded) and 21-22* timing chip with 22-23psi. With 116 leaded race gas and 26* timing chip with 25psi+ you should be able to go mid/low 10's depending upon traction and weight of your car.

If you want to join the NorCal Turbobuick Organization email me: [email protected] and I'll forward your info on the appropriate party to contact to get on our messageboard. They went to Sac Raceway this Saturday and raced. Members with 8 second cars all the way up to 14 second cars. They have meetings 1x month in the SouthBay and BBQ's every few months with racing events every few months also.

-Mark

 

[gnx7]

I reread your post and see that you have alchy and a ScanMaster already..... Car should be a fun street toy. I like to add in a gallon of Xylene (119 octane) or Tuolene (117 octane) from Sherman Williams (Paint Store) to increase octane level for a little more buffer zone if you are running 20psi+ boost levels. You may not need it... but it is cheap insurance vs. melting a piston or blowing a headgasket. Sign up for a free business account and you can get the 5 gallon containers for $30 or so.

7 gallons of 91 octane
3 gallons of Xylene
2 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil (for lubrication)
yields
99.5 octane

Just adding 1 gallon of Xylene or Tuolene raises the 91 octane level a few points (92/93/94) depending upon how much gas is left in the tank.

It is at least a good idea if you plan to go racing. Also remember that air temperature outside plays a huge role in how the car runs and how much boost you can make before detonation starts to show up. Cool mornings your car will feel insanely fast and warm afternoons it will feel sluggish sometimes.

-GNX7

 

[Steve Wood]

Good advice!

 

[CaptainInsane-O]

Actually xylene is 117 octane & toluene is 114 octane. After years of real world & laboratory testing, I've found the best bang for the buck ratio to use is one gallon of "booster" for every 3 gallons of pump gas. I usually make my homebrew in 12 gallon batches, 3 gallons of xylene & 9 gallons of pump gas. As already stated be sure to use ~1/2 ounce of a top cylinder lube such as Marvel Mystery Oil per gallon of xylene / toluene.

This blend will net you the following when used with 93 octane super:

Xylene = (117 * 3) + (93 * 9) / 12 = 99 octane final mix

Toluene = (114 * 3) + (93 * 9) / 12 = 98.25 octane final mix

Doug C.

 

[1FastGN]

Thanks for the great advice. I will definitely play with the "booster" fuels you mention. SOOO...how much boost can I run around town on a street chip, with the SMC alchy? Also, when do I need the alchy? Right now, I am running about 11 psi of boost in street trim on 91 octane, and was wondering if I should/could up that a bit...to say 15psi??

--Ryan B
86 GN