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Hello everybody.I am a new owner of a 87 gn.Have been into cars most of my life and have wanted a Grand National since 86.I live in saskatchewan Canada.I hope everyone will be patient with me as I have many questions about these cars and most of them have probably been asked and answered many times already on this board.My first question regards the whole adjustable boost thing.i kinda understand people making adj.wastegates and am i correct in thinking this allows a person to manually adj boost from zero to 16-20? can a person then set the boost for launches and still have the boost increase as the speed of the car increases?I will stop at that because I have become quite long winded.Thanks in advance and bye for now.
 

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Start with the basics before you go turning up the boost.Go to http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/techpage.html and start from there. Learn learn...........your car will thank you!
By the way, where are you from in Sk?


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Best time so far: 12.78 at 107.5mph on radials, 2.05 60 ft
Stock Turbo/injectors/Ford Powerstroke IC.....
Car weight without driver 3625 lbs
 

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Welcome and don't worry about the common questions, we all started somewhere. You can adjust maximum boost with the wastegate. Learn about knock before you start turning up the boost. Get a scantool and/or a knock gauge so you can monitor your knock. As stated above, read at www.gntttype.org and ask questions here so you can make that car faster safely. Good luck.

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1987 GN 14" K&N, adj. wastegate, adj. FPR, XP Armstrong hotwired, 160*-stat, Hooker 2.5" catback exaust, Thrasher chips, shift kit, trans cooler, vdo boost/oil/temp guages, scanmaster v2.1, Kirban's front/rear frame braces, Hotchkis lower contol arms, variable rate rear springs, GNX wanna-be rims, and the rest is stock as far as I can tell...or too meaningless to list.

1987 Cavalier Z24 daily driver. 3-chamber flowmaster and 135db worth of stereo.

Shaun

[This message has been edited by shaunchrisc (edited May 21, 2002).]
 

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Here's my standard post
What everybody is correctly suggesting is that you upgrade the stock pieces before you crank it up. The factory system was designed for factory boost / fueling / derivability and emissions. If we want to go faster we are going to have to change some of the elements of the factory system. We are also going to need more information than the factory gauge package provided.
Ok can I have further clarification on the ADJ FP reg-wastegate
ADJ FP = Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator. This allows you to manually trim the fuel pressure. Every car has a different fuel pressure sweet spot so you are going to need the pieces to adjust yours also. More air is going to need more fuel. You'll also need a good, removable, fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pressure is generally measured "static", that is with the vacuum line removed from the regulator.
ADJ - wastegate = Adjustable wastegate. This allows for the same trim adjustments for your boost settings. Poor fuel/ hot day /high timing = less boost. Good fuel / dense cold air / less timing = more boost. Rock solid boost control is critical.
160 stat = 160 degree thermostat. This will keep the engine cooler and provide better performance. No downside on derivability except your heater won't blow as hot on the cold winter days. High boost creates high heat. We need to keep things cool under the hood from both a performance and longevity standpoint.
307-340 walbro hotwired = New Walbro 307 or 340 Fuel Pump. The stock fuel pump was marginal at best so we need to make sure we can flow the higher volumes of fuel at the higher HP levels. No downsides, it's an "in-tank" pump. Hotwired means running a hot wire from the alternator so the pump never goes low on voltage. Fuel pumps are like any other electric motor, they need adequate voltage to perform as designed.
FP and Boost gauge = Removable fuel pressure gauge so you know your settings and an aftermarket boost gauge. The stock boost gauge is notoriously inaccurate. You need precise boost and fuel information at all times.
Scantool = An absolute must. The various sensors on the car are constantly gathering information and sending that data to the computer. The computer in turn is making decisions based upon that input. The sensor data and the decisions the computer is making have a massive impact on the derivability and performance of the car.
You need to know both what information is being gathered by the sensors and what the computer is doing about it. The sensor data is the common denominator or langauge of our cars, we all gather the same information, we all speak the same language.
Scanmaster II is a great start, but if you already have a laptop then look into a data logger like
either TurboLink or Direct Scan.
Now that you have the adjustable features you need, adequate fueling and good information - it's time to safely crank up the horses!!. Traction will be your first "new" problem.
Where can I get this stuff how much?
Pricing will vary but I would call Mike at Ramchargers, Joe at Precision Turbo and Engine or Jack Cotton. Drop Ken Mosher a note if looking into TurboLink. All are great guys and all have helped me immensely over the years.
The above was prepared by Mile High GN.

After this is done you can go with a non-stock chip and turn up the boost.

The trasher is a good chip and only cost $25.

PS – You will also need a open air K & N filter.
And I would have the injectors cleaned & flowed.
 
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