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In the past, I have seen references to using a manual trans and the fact that it "slows" the car down, but have never heard any confirmations. Is anyone on the board using a manual or have done the conversion or know the details of what is required?

There is some interest in the potential hybrid crowd where the car would be used for more than straightline racing and 1000lbs less weight would help compensate for any performance losses.

TIA



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Scottie's GNZ
 

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Scottie
I used to run a stick and it was slower!
Even when power shifting you loose some boost while shifting. I first ran a Muncie M21 Rock Crusher with a Vertical Gate shifter (yes you can bang the shifts pretty fast with that setup
) but found the gearing limiting so went to a Borg Warner T5 for the overdrive. I put in a Hurst shifter as well (stock shifter sucks, has throws like a school bus shifter) This was an improvement over the M21 but began frying clutches. Went to a heavy-duty clutch and pressure plate, but still had that feeling that something was missing. It also started to become a little scary going around corners while shifting, even trying to be as smooth as I could it felt like a on /off thing.

As for daily driving... Just like any other stick in traffic... a pain in the left leg.

I then went to the 200-4R and ...WOW what a difference. No comparison the car is definitely quicker. The gearing just fits the torque curve perfectly, and no turbo lag between shifts. It actually scared me how hard it pulled through all the gears. I run a B&M MegaShifter and can hold gears as long as I like and slap it into the next and bang, the tranny shifts instantly or just leave it in D and it looks after itself. It is also a lot more comfortable to drive in traffic. I love the auto setup and would not go back for a second.

The details of the stick setup are: BOP bellhousing, flywheel off an Monza/Sunbird, modified Camaro clutch and pressure plate, T5 tranny, custom fabricated crossmember (T5 is tilted 30 deg? to the right) Combination of stock Toyota hydraulic clutch slave and piston coupled to a modified Toyota fork and throw out bearing, fabricated slave bracket. Setting up the fork pivot ball mount geometry was a pain in the butt (a lot of trial and error to give the correct clearances) Chopping of the tranny tunnel and console for the shifter. A lot of work!!!
As far as the weight reduction goes, considering the 200-4R and converter is just over 200lbs, it isn’t that much when you add up the weight of the bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, disk, throwout bearing, fork, brackets (heavy duty... can't have any flex) hydraulics, etc. I had actually weighed everything at one time and was surprised at how little difference there was.

Sorry for the epic novel, but now you know my experience with it.

Paul


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1972 Toyota Celica with a 87 TR drive train.
 

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The only two real negatives against using a stick is the lack of a heavy duty tranny that will readily bolt up and live and the difficulty in building boost sitting at the line without a load on the engine.

Loss of spool once moving on the shift points is not a significant factor especially if you emulate the foreign products and use a sneeze valve to recirculate the flow when the throttle is momentarily closed.

For a road car it should work well if you can find a tranny that will live. Probably needs smaller turbos with broader bandwidths...meaning boost that comes on at lower rpms

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Steve Wood

86 GN bought new, TE45/ported heads/CAS front mount/MSD50's/TH dp/210 PTE Roller Cam/9-1 c.r./65mmTB-Hemco plenum/2 3/4" exhaust/Eibach springs/GNX style wheels/MAXEFFORT 16 pos chip with gas out feature/venturiless maf

87 T-type-Stock short block/ported heads/red stripes/TE44/2.5" Hooker exhaust/MAXEFFORT 16 position chip with gas out

81 El Camino with GN drive train-basically stock 86



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