Turbo Buick Forums banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just changed fuel pump and filter ,plugs and wires.
but I can not go f.o.t with out the engine
spudering and making a popping noise.
I also changed intercooler hoses because someone told me mine might be to old.
didnt help,
does any one have an idea what this could be
please i need your help so i can eat thoughs
5.0's ,again please help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
I would first suggest you check your plug wires again and make sure they are plugged in right into the coil pak, if this is an 86~87 on the drivers side rear of the coil pak the plugs should be 351 going away from you, from the passanger side front of the coil pak the plugs should be 426 going away from you, if this is correct you might want to check the plug wires them selves (ohm them) people do make mistakes even making new wires.

good Luck

Neal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,098 Posts
What fuel pressure are you running, and is your fuel pressure regulator up to par? Sounds like low fuel pressure. Might want to hook up your gage, and make sure you're getting enough pressure under full boost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,838 Posts
I'v had a tank of bad gas that did that

Pull a wire at at a time, to see which one, if any do not change the performance. Find one like that, and you are looking at a bad wire (yes even new) or an injector not firing.

Since the car's ignition fires in 'reverse' the wire you pull at the coilpack should be able to fire a 4" long, blue spark to one of the torex screws that hold the coil pack to the module.

All that failing, Postons has a FP guage that you can attach to the fuel rail, then attachg it to the windshield with masking tape. This will tell you if the wot FP is ok.

Look for corrosion in the coilpack? There should be a gasket to keep moisture out.

Borrow a scantool, to see if the maf is reading correctly, or go to www.gnttype.org and see how to read error codes without a scantool. 'Error codes' in the search function should work.
 

·
I'm the Best!
Joined
·
14,818 Posts
sounds like its running rich..then again i know nothing about these cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
349 Posts
Originally posted by firebird_1252:
sounds like its running rich..then again i know nothing about these cars.
You certainly know more now than you did a year ago! With Ed's schooling & others here, I may need you to answer my questions very soon!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
Did this start after you changed plugs and wires, or was it doing it before?

The answer would have a lot to do with what to check.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
two possibilities come to mind.

1. bad coil pack. Have you tried measuring the resistance across each coil (between the plug wire terminals rear to front)? Should be 11-13,000 ohms. This will catch about 60% of the bad coils. A Casper's coil tester will catch about 99% of them.

2. Bad cam sensor....crank it up, unplug the cam sensor once it is running and then drive it. Does it run better? Remember that it will not start again once you kill the engine until the sensor is replugged.


Having suggested the above, I am assuming that you have a real boost gauge on the car and it is not overboosting and also that you have a good fuel pump and hotwire on it. Lack of fuel or too much boost will cause it to detonate and cut out as well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
at the cam sensor connector by the cam sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
349 Posts
The cam sensor is mounted on the timing cover. It sits directly below the up-pipe (up-pipe connects the intercooler to the throttle body) & has a black cap with wires going into it. If you stand in front of the car, you can bend forward & see it behind/above the intercooler. HTH

Look at this link & on the right (near the top) is a picture. It actually shows the cam sensor & drive together. http://gnttype.org/techarea/pictureguides/timingcovers/87cover.html

[This message has been edited by Carolinaturbot6 (edited June 05, 2002).]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just test drove it. Tried to do a brake tourqe and just as it started to spin the tires it did it again, with lots of smoke coming from the exaust and the boost gauge maxed out and then went to 0. It almost died out.
 

·
Retired
Joined
·
1,966 Posts
Certainly sounds like you're WAY OVERboosting! So badly the ECM is trying to shut everything down. Yes it can happen.
If you don't have an aftermarket boost gauge, sounds like you REALLY need one now.

Try and figure why it's overboosting before you pop a headgasket or worse.


------------------
TurboDave & Kathy Huinker, mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
TurboD Racing
Lone Rock, WI
86 GN[email protected](MM/MAF Xlator/Extender,MM BstC Boost Command,THDP,PTE44,CAS V2FM,MSD50's,9.5"vigilante 3500)
87 GN [email protected](Stock)
84 Z28 L69
01 Excursion LTD TTS"race" chip 7.3L PSD(power stroke diesel) Turbo 4X2
My photo albums
 

·
Retired
Joined
·
1,966 Posts
Originally posted by onequicksix:
what are some of the first things to check,like hoses etc.
At the very least, all the hoses that are connected to the turbo, wastegate actuator, and wastegate solenoid.

All hoses should be in good condition, no splits, tears, rips etc.




------------------
TurboDave & Kathy Huinker, mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
TurboD Racing
Lone Rock, WI
86 GN[email protected](MM/MAF Xlator/Extender,MM BstC Boost Command,THDP,PTE44,CAS V2FM,MSD50's,9.5"vigilante 3500)
87 GN [email protected](Stock)
84 Z28 L69
01 Excursion LTD TTS"race" chip 7.3L PSD(power stroke diesel) Turbo 4X2
My photo albums
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top