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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, it's been a while since I last posted. Hope someone can help. Mr. Wood please respond. I had just installed the power plate, which helped a kr problem I had been having. It helped by lowering the kr by about 50%, the boost went up about 2# but it seemed weaker power wise. I installed 009 injectors and a "copy" of a Red Armstrong 93 chip. I also installed a SMC alcy kit.When I ran the car seemed weaker still and would cut out and almost did a nose dive. I had 38# fuel pressure, hose off and15# boost. Kr was around 5-6. O2 was around 577,Bl I don't remember during this run. I didn't use the alcy during these tests. I set the IAC and TPS, raised the fuel to 42# raised the boost to 18#. The IAC would change after it was set for a whil back to 00 but it finally settled to 16 in gear no a/c. TPS was .44-4.6wot. The next run was better with about .5-1 kr but was still cutting out and not very strong. Both runs were in 3rd gear but it went longer before shifting into 3rd.It did't do that before. Anyway, the last run had BL 90, o2 880 int about 122 I think. I numbered all wires and changed the injectors one by one so nothing would get crossed.Later the IAC went back to 00 again{this has been a problem since I've had the car} I've changed the IAC valve, cleaned the TB. Oh! I don't know if it means anything or not , before I installed the PP, injectors etc. I made a run that showed about 8Kr but while decelerating went to 28* hadn't done that before or since. Thanks in advance for your help. Oh! Steve Wood, I will tell you what I found with the boost vibration problem I posted a while back. I will refresh your memory.

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87 GN KB Ram Air & exhaust,Gauges,SM2,Adjustable Regulator KB Pro2 chip the rest is stock.
 

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Okay, first...if the blms are showing 90, then the ecm thinks the car is very rich and is trying to remove fuel...90 is as far as it can read so it is doing everything the ecm can do to shut off the fuel.

My first thought would be that the chip is not for 009s. The run that showed this also showed a rich O2.

What does the car show at idle with regard to blms, O2s, and Maf reading?

The iac should read about 15-30 in Park when the engine is fully warmed up. It should read probably 60 are so in gear. Sounds like you have the iac screw turned way too far in. It will read higher when cold than when warm.

Triple check the plug wires but it normally will pop and miss if they are crossed.



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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Steve- 90 was the BL reading at idel, taken just after the run. I very carefully numbered the wires and terminals before I removed them. The chip was taken out of the guys' ecm when I purchased the injectors. I didn't read the maf this time during the run but it read 5or6 during the time I was doing this. On the IAC, Maybe I'm con fused, I have been setting it at 10 to 20 in gear and also checking for a range in park of 20 to 40. I don't remember where I got this but I know I saw it somewhere. I have also tried setting it where you jumper the comp. plug pins and adjust rpms. The results were the same, it would change later. Do you think that since it was showing to low 02 counts at 38# and too high at 42# that I should try lowering the fuel pressure? What do you think about the deceleration kr I described? I really am lost at what to do because I just changed the injectors and chip? The fuel pressure hols when off for about 15 or 20 mins. after engine is off before it loweres so you can tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Boy --- I'm giving you some great spelling correction opertunities. I may become as popular as ZAP!!!
 

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You have to be as ugly as Zap to get any opportunities!

The IAC should be 15-30 in Park, engine hot, no AC...don't pay attention to it in gear. Salvage says the original factory spec was up to 50...again in park.

The 15-30 usually makes for a steadier idle.

Back the screw out and get that right first..backing the screw out will make the tps go lower....it can go into the 30's and still be fine.

Then set your fp for about 40#. Red's chips are notorious for being rich at idle...but 90 is awful rich...you need to see what the blms are once you are off idle.

As I run only the MaxEffort in my cars...I am not as sharp as I probably should be on regular chips...



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Had the same "FAT" problems w/ a Reds chip and 009's. Found the chip was for 36pph and once we changed the inj. constant, the engine would run great.. First sign of a problem was, it would build ZERO boost on the brakes. We ended up w/ the constant up to about a 44PPh injector. 10# on the brake was NO PROBLEM!!
Also, the 009's liked 40# line off.

HTH
Chuck


[This message has been edited by Old Buzzard (edited April 10, 2002).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Steve, I will reset the IAC. I drove the car to work today, It ran good under normal driving, I didn't go WOT. BL would go from 90 to 116 and once to126 but seemed to want to stay closer to 90. AF at idel in gear was 7 when I checked it at a red light. OLD Buzzard- Thanks for the info, I don't know what the pph figures are you reference.Steve- as far as looking as ugly as ZAP, where I come from (Ky.) This seems to help you date the best looking women, check out the bars and clubs and you will possibly come to the same conclusion. I figure getting a dose of tugly might be a good thing.

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87 GN KB Ram Air & exhaust,Gauges,SM2,Adjustable Regulator KB Pro2 chip the rest is stock.
 

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That's interesting I just got a new RA 93 chip for my 009s and the Block Learn at idle also sits at 90 no matter what I set the fuel pressure to. Is there a way I can tell if my chip has been burned incorrectly?
 

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Steve, what exactly should I be checking? I ASSume you mean Block learn and/or O2 volts through the RPM range? Sorry for the dumb question but I never had a chip with such a crazy parameter like this before...
 

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PPH is pounds per hour.... usually injectors are rated at 3 bars or 43.5 psi. The results are expressed as PPH.

HTH,
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the info Old Buzzard. Steve- I lowered the fuel pressure from 42 to 40 and reset the IAC to 35 it made a big difference. Big increase in power no cutting out and the kr at wot was 10 instead of 13-17 with stock injectors.AF is reading 5-6 at idle.BL at idle in gear is floating from 94 to around 103 and crusing at 60 or 65 mph is around 116 to 124. O2 at wot is around 830-850. I had turned the boost to 17 during this run no alky on 93 fuel. I plan to try it with alky to lower kr and lower fuel pressure 1 more lb. If this gets rid of the kr I will try a little more boost. Does this sound like a feasable plan? Anyone else want to chime in? I wasn't meaning to limit the conversation. All you guys advice is valued. I have been "lurking" for a long time now and have learned a lot. I feel I may be almost smart enough to be dangerous.

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87 GN KB Ram Air & exhaust,Gauges,SM2,Adjustable Regulator KB Pro2 chip the rest is stock.
 

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You look at the pile of rubble I have collected over the years and you will know I am dangerous.

Lots of cars that I see have a hard time running 17# of boost on 93. 15-16 is more likely on a stock cam, IC, etc.

That old KB chip is probably not helping either. It may work better spraying some alky.

Glad you made a little progress. I think that is just Red's chip that is making it rich at idle...

I would leave the fp where it is and start with the alky.



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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Steve!! Do you happen to have a brother named Stan? Now I will run by you the problem I posted months ago, you may not rember cause if you are like me , I'm at the age where CRS is starting to set in! Anyway , when cruising on the interstate at say 65 and I pressed gas pedal to maintain speed for a hill the cac would shudder. You could see the hood mounted KB fuel gauge shake. Boost level would be around 8# or so. After a little bit say at 10# boost it would smooth out. Going from a stop for a wot blast it would not do it. When I had the tranny rebuilt earlier the mechanis said that someone had disconected the torque converter. It seemed that if you drove it awhile it would quit doing it and if it sat for any length of time it would start doing it again. The concensus at the time was the turbo bearings were gone. I checked it and found a little play but was unfamilure with what was acceptable. I did see however some gaps on the fins as if it had been hitting. I ordered a rebuilt unit from postons and installed with the same results. Now here is my therory- I have a leaky rear main, when the tranny was first rebuilt the torque converter was new and didn't have any oil on it therfore everything was ok. I'm thinking that the lockup section of the converter has a friction surface or so I was told, this materal getting oil soaked and when I would step on the gas and put it under load the shutter was the result of the converter unlocking. This may be why it had been unhooked before. Does this make sense?? I guess I should unhook it and see if it quits the shudder? Thanks for your help.
 

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No brother named Stan


The lockup clutch is inside the converter and is covered with tranny fluid so that would not be the problem...

I wonder if the converter was not unlocking when you gave it a little gas and this was the vibration you feel?

I guess this would be a question that needs to be posed to either Mike Kurtz or Bruce Toelle. I noticed Mike posted here the other day (makurtz)

I am not completely familiar with how the converter can work...locked vs unlocked...once you get past the basic wiring, I am lost on the internal hydraulic function and what can go wrong.



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