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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need a new lockup solinoid or"switch" that goes in the trans 200R4. My converter does'nt want to unlock when coming to a stop. Takes off like a drunken Texas slug!
I have a switch to disable it so it will drive normaly but would like it to work right for gas milage. Converter has been replaced & it still does this? Anyone have the GM part # ?

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Keith Davis**86GN,Astroroof,DigDash'TTA crank,Ported polished heads & matched intake'TRW .30 forged pistons & PT51 Turbo,Manly SS valves,CC 206-206 cam'Postons headers,Orange stripe conv.THDP,2 1/2 exhaust'Hooker comp. mufflers'SMC alky,Boost command,Scanmaster2,MSD50 inj,SS MAF & translator'Nitto DR's 275/50/15,All the braces,All gauges VDO.
12.8 @ 102 is with stock setup no times for new setup yet.


 

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dont have the part number off hand but Kirban has brand new Delco units for $45. Just happend to see that in my pamplet from them.

Joe

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1986 Grand National
TA-49, 009's, Hooker cat back, and all the other usual stuff

 

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This is what I ordered. Not 100% sure if it's correct. Haven't installed it yet.

Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid 8639900
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by Steve Wood:
That thing get into the 12's yet?
Hell no! [email protected] was its best this year. MPH was greatly improved when I locked the converter"But to get it to disingauge I had to shut the car off."Im not going to run it hard again till next year.

Radialkid whats the trick & whats the results?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Originally posted by salvageV6:
This is what I ordered. Not 100% sure if it's correct. Haven't installed it yet.

Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid 8639900

Yep thats it.
Is this part hard to install? Does valve body have to come off etc.?



[This message has been edited by fast86 (edited November 15, 2001).]
 

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I'd check with Bruce T., WE4, in the tranny section. Either he or GNTTYPE.org had some pictures of the location and wire routing.

I think you can get to it after the filter is removed.
 

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Here's the trick[secret].
Remove the pan.
Pull the filter.
on the valve body towards the front of the car you will find two 10 mm headed bolts[6mm thread,if I remember corectly].
These retain the lockup solenoid.
The solenoid has two wires going to it from the harness.
Cut them a close as you can to the original solenoid,pull the bolts and remove the valve.
The valve goes in on an angle.
make a note of the angle when you remove it.
The new solenoid should have two wires as well.
Connect these to the original wires you cut.Either with solder and shrink wrap or crimp connectors.One wire will be black[ground],and the other will probably be reddish brown or brown[positive].Connect your red from the new solenoid to this one.
Of course,the black from the new solenoid goes to the black on your harness.
Carefully insert the valve into the valve body[remember the angle and be sure the old sealing washer for the solenoid is out before you insert the new valve.You'll see it around the neck of the old valve if you got it.]
Now here's the trick.
The tabs for the new solenoid sit about 1/4" above the mounting surface of the valve body.
You'll need to put some spacer washers under the tabs and get some longer bolts to retain the valve.You'll see.
After that is done,all that remains,is to reinstall the filter and pan.
Be sure the filter neck sealing ring is on the filter neck when you reinstall the filter and not stuck in the valve body.
While you've got the pan off,you might want to note the 3rd and 4th gear solenoids that signal the computer.
They are towards the back of the valve body with single spade connectors on top of them.They hang straight down,out of the valve body.
These are the ones that Donny Wang suggests moving the clip for the filter[700r4 type filter install],to prevent the filter's metal top from contacting.
I should probably clarify the clip I'm refering to.It is used to push the filter away from the valve body,not pull the filter towards the valve body.
That's about all I can think of for now.Have fun and I hope that helps you out.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by The Radius Kid:

Now here's the trick.
The tabs for the new solenoid sit about 1/4" above the mounting surface of the valve body.
You'll need to put some spacer washers under the tabs and get some longer bolts to retain the valve.You'll see.


Thanks Radius"Please explane that.Whats that going to do?You lost me there!
 

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It's quite simple really.If you look at the tabs on your new switch,the distance from the backside of the tabs to the end of the valve snout[end that goes in the valve body,has an O-ring around it]is a 1/4" longer than the stocker.When you push the new valve in,the tabs won't seat against the valve body face,they'll sit about 1/4" away.You see now?Hope that explains it.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Originally posted by Steve Wood:
Keith, I think RK's talking about the installation of the 700 solenoid. If you bought the one for the 200R4, you can ignore this part.

The 700 solenoid is more robust and works better and more reliably.

Don't panic if you bought the 200r4 as it worked for a long time. Most of the rebuilders now use the one form the 700s. A secret that ain't so secret.
Thanks Steve" I was all confused there!
I did buy the 200R4 & did'nt realize that Radius was talking about the 700 solinoid" But hey I can still get the one for the 700 if it is a better performing unit!

Thanks for the info Radius!


[This message has been edited by fast86 (edited November 16, 2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Any paticular year 700?
 

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Think it might have been an 89 app.Check the tranny section on the other board.Got mine from a tranny shop.It's made by a company called Fitzall.Universal app.Made to do the job in 700's as well as 200's.

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if you can unlock the TCC with an external switch, the actual solenoid sounds fine. it sounds like a wiring problem in the car.
if you unplug the wire connector from the trans and the TCC remains unlocked, that would be a good clue.
what's odd is that the brake switch should overide the grounding of the ALDL wire.

earl
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The only way the switch will disable it is if I first cut the car off. It did work when I was at cruising speed & turned it off" about a year ago' I havent tried it cause most of the driving I do with it is in town & I like the trans performance better without it.
 

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Sounds like the wire is frayed and shorting to ground.

Brake switch should over-ride the +12 signal however and drop it out.

May be more to your problem than just the solenoid.
 
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