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Buick Hypochondriac
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3,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This ought to get interesting...

Got the engine out of the GN on Saturday. Thanks to Wayne for allowing me to use his garage and my buddy Jace for the help. Took us about 4 hour total to get the engine and trans out.

As I thought, the engine was original. Never been apart, as proven by the stock plastic intake rail seals. Cam looked good, some pitting on the lobes but nothing major. All the lifters looked great, and the bores still had crosshatch in them. Don't know if that's common, but I've never seen it before. Found the #1 main was beat up some. Mostly on the bottom, since we didn't check the top. All the rods looked okay as well given the mileage too. Found the drivers side motor mount came apart. Rubber was intact but it came unfused from the metal bracket. Also found a hairline crack in the #6 primary tube of the passenger's side header.

Gonna drop it off to a local machine shop that's done a few of these in the past. Gonna get everything checked out and go from there.

Looking to do a simple, reliable, street setup here. I wish I could go to a roller cam, but it's not in the budget. Gotta save some money for a trans in my truck. Looking at a Comp 206/206 tappet and a set of ported irons and a intake too. Maybe TA headers and a Garrett housing for my 62, which seems to still be in good shape. Also a billet drum and ring gear for the trans.

Looking to hopefully have it done by Kirban's open house.

Any advice appreciated and I'll update the thread as I know more.
 

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Premium Member
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6,914 Posts

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Dr. Nehi
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1,011 Posts
Scott,

I'm pretty sure I still have my unused Weber-comp cams 206/206 & GM lifters (old thread here) and would be happy to work out a good deal if you could put them to good use...

(I bought this and then went roller)
-Scott
 

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Mad Scientist
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494 Posts
Take the header money and get a ductile roller kit.
New flat tappet cam + headers = Money for roller (or at least damn close)

You only want to go into the motor once, it's much easier to swap headers later when you have the cash. Same goes for everything else, Spend the money you can inside the motor. Bolt-ons are an easy swap down the road.

Good luck
 

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Premium Member
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255 Posts
Agreed. Pretty much do everything you want to from oil pan to heads now. Everything externally can be swapped later. Just don't get carried away like most of us do :rolleyes:. Take the $750 you would pay for headers and put it towards a roller cam kit. Stock ones are not a restriction, just port and weld up the cracks.
 

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Buick Hypochondriac
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3,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Will try to get pics tomorrow night. Had a l13 hour day at work today.

Got approved for financing so we're good to go. Gonna drop off the short block on Friday and see what it looks like. I'll decide on the cam after I know what all the block and rotating assembly will need. Hopefully not too much. Might just go ahead and put pistons in it, but we'll see.

What roller cams do you guys like for a street setup? Looking to retain my TE-62 and ProTorque convertor, which I may send out for a freshening/restall.

Do I absolutely have to run roller rockers if I go to a roller cam? Trying to spend the money where it will do the most good. Ordered a billet drum and ring gear for the trans today too.
 

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Premium Member
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1,014 Posts
I like the kit Fullthrottle sells with the 210/215 cam. I think it would work with your turbo and convertor. I don't know what your budget is or if you enjoyed taking the motor out and putting back together. cause you start making more power causes more boom. Just cause Paulie doesn't seem to mind running around with a stock bottom end doesn't mean those 10 sec passes wont catch up:D. So if your going for more power billet mains might be a consideration??
 

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Registered
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829 Posts
:pop:

I see a girdled, forged stroker by the time everyone's put their input in :D

My $.0002....I would do a roller kit too and be done, thread after thread claims no gains w/ headers until mid 10's or better.
 

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Buick Hypochondriac
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3,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Guys, I've got $4000 to finance this little endeavor. Looking to use most of that on the major stuff for the build. I'll probably end up doing a roller cam, just need to see what the shortblock will need before I make any final decision.

Id like to not bore it or cut the crank if at all possible, but if it needs to be done so be it. Have a set of ported irons ready for the machine shop and a partially ported intake that needs to be finished up.

Will update when I know what the machine shop says.
 

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Will Boost 4 Boobies!!!
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2,768 Posts
Good Luck. One thing I learned is, if your budget if $4k, expect to spend at least $5K. Just a warning.
 

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car crazy from birth
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729 Posts
Good Luck. One thing I learned is, if your budget if $4k, expect to spend at least $5K. Just a warning.
maybe just start practicing the famous project catch-phrase; "Don't worry - it's only a little more" :rolleyes:

Good luck with everything :6: :usa:
 

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www.magnabuick.com
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6,876 Posts
What was the reason for pulling the engine out of the car in the first place?

What are your short term and long term ET and/or MPH goals for the car?
 

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Buick Hypochondriac
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3,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What was the reason for pulling the engine out of the car in the first place?

What are your short term and long term ET and/or MPH goals for the car?
It was drystarting. Not unusual for a Buick but I figured it was time to step up to the plate, and go big or stay home. That and I couldn't get the car to go any faster than 11.32, I decided to do something about it.

Ported irons, roller cam, fresh bottom end should get it done.

Short term goals are a couple of 10 second timeslips at 120+mph. And that's it. I'll be done.

Engine is at the machine shop and the trans it at my builders. Ordered my billet forward drum and ring gear, and a pair of HR mounts.
 

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Buick Hypochondriac
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3,236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
be sure to save a few dollars for an intercooler upgrade , the duttneck will now be the restriction to the combo
I know Doc, but lets see what we can do with it just to get the setup going. Dropping a intercooler in isn't a big deal. Can always do it later.

I think something is up with the front swaybar or the frame brace. The stock IC shroud was wedged in. Something is moved or whatever, I don't know. I'd have to take the brace off to get a SLIC to fit anyway...:crazy:
 

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Irradiate This!
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734 Posts
You seem to have a pretty good plan. But yeah, I agree with upgrading the intercooler. You can get a good used intercooler fairly cheap from someone. Upgrade to a dual nozzle alky too (but if you're looking for a one time slip then throw in some race gas to be safe). If you really want to go 10s easy....heads, cam, turbo, intercooler all go together. You'll need probably need 122-123mph with a good 1.5x 60ft to go 10's. Don't think the dutt neck is going to cut it.

If you're on a strict budget, I'd put the money from the roller cam towards an intercooler. Roller cam isn't needed but the intercooler is. If your goal was low 10s then definitely a roller. But just get a little bigger cam that is ideal for the rpm range of low-mid 120mph now. A roller cam is somewhat of a waste for your ET goal.

And once you start going faster all the other crap that may be borderline now starts showing up... ignition, fuel pump, etc so set a little money aside for unplanned upgrades. But as long as your goal remains the same you don't need to go crazy with the setup... just need good working stockish components along with the heads, cam, turbo, IC.
 

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Premium Member
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255 Posts
The front frame bracing bars that run from the cross member to the frame will fit with a stretch SLIC. Either make a plate to relocate the cross member mounts lower and outward or cut and bend the bars then re-weld.
 
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