[teamgn87]

On the way home from the track today,the car developed a wicked stumble at part throttle.Every time the car stumbled the check engine light flashed.My scanmaster showed a code 22 when the check engine light blinked.But the code only flashes and goes back to 00.It also flashes if I hit a large bump in the road.Do I need a new TPS?And if so,does the GM dealer still carry them?

 

[The Radius Kid]

I believe they're still available,not too expensive either.
How many miles on yours?

 

[salvageV6]

Can also be the wiring at the ECM or at the TPS connector shorting to ground or open circuit over bumps.

If you have a scantool look for smooth operation of the tps throughout the range.

Then wiggle the wiring at the tps connector and see if it changes or jumps.

If the wiring is left alone and the tps is smooth operating voltage wise as a first test of course.

 

[teamgn87]

I went to work on the car tonight and I think I found the problem.The little pin that comes out of the throttle shaft and moves the lever on the TPS was broken off.I knocked out the broken piece and replaced it with a cut off allen wrench with a little JB Weld to hold it in place.Hope this works.One other thing,the code 22 set in the scanmaster-how do I get rid of it? powersix

 

[Steve Wood]

unplug/replug the connector on the orange wire coming off the battery plus terminal...powers the ecm memory.



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[ULYCYC]

The broken piece is a roll-pin. Pep boys has them in the draws. Your temp fix is good but will fall out in time. TPS is still available from GM and Delco.I bought one last month.

<small>[ November 03, 2003, 10:45 PM: Message edited by: ULYCYC ]</small>

 

[teamgn87]

Cool.If Pep boys has them Ill pick one up tomorrow.Thanks guys.Now all I need to do is find my knocking problem.6 degrees at the top of third gear at 14psi with 55lbs of fuel pressure and 100 octane is starting to get on my nerves! uzi

 

[teamgn87]

Oh,one more thing.Does anyone know what size the roll pin is?Length and diameter please.Thanks. cheers

 

[Steve Wood]

Get rid of the twin pumps and replace with a good single.....



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[ULYCYC]

teamgn87:
Oh,one more thing.Does anyone know what size the roll pin is?Length and diameter please.Thanks. cheers

Don't ask the help there. They will send you to a bakery supplies store eek! Look for the aisle with all the pull out draws. One will be roll-pins
look for 1/8" diam X 1 1/4" length. Also as Steve said: "GET RID OF THOSE FUEL PUMPS" nono wink

<small>[ November 04, 2003, 03:56 PM: Message edited by: ULYCYC ]</small>

 

[teamgn87]

Thanks for the infne question though,why do you guys dislike these twin pumps so much?I am going to change them but I thought they could at least supply enough fuel for 14psi and a stock chip.(there was 12 deg of knock with the pitbull)340 Walbro-right?Do you know who has the best price on them?

 

[ULYCYC]

Nothing wrong with twin pumps if set up the correct way. You have wired together and that is incorrect. You need to staged one to come on with a boost activated switch around 15lbs of boost. A single Walbro 340 can get you into the 10's so there is no need for the above. Either correct your twin pumps or get the 340 before you try and figure out what is causing you knock problem

 

[teamgn87]

I did not install those pumps.I found them when I changed my gas tank.As far as I can see they are wired together and the outputs are spliced together also.Ive put alot of time into this car but most of it has been basic repair and restoration so far.Most of the mods on this car were already in place when I bought it.Im still learning. wink

 

[ULYCYC]

No flame intended.. But you have been saying "I bought the car with them wired together" for as long as I can remember. Steve, myself and others heve pointed out this problem and most likely the cause of many of your performance problems. I know we sound like nagging old ladies but get them fixed. If you need help in wiring, post it.

 

[Steve Wood]

Yep....way too much fuel for your combination if they are both pumping...

Put a single pump in the tank...most of the vendors offer a good price on a walbro 340



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[teamgn87]

Is it possible that these pumps are not what they seem?The way you guys make it sound,running both pumps at the same time would cause an overly rich condition.That is by far not the case with this car.If I run 42psi(line off)the car knocks pretty bad.In order to get rid of the knock I had to run nearly 60psi(line off)with 100 octane fuel.Even with that I still got 3 deg of retard in the top of third gear at the track on Sunday.And I have the boost set at 14#.The only reason I havent re-wired those pumps is because I dont think they are working correctly.Changing the fuel filter didnt do much either.

 

[Steve Wood]

maybe you have rich detonation?

Either you have too much fuel, or not enuf.

What is your fuel pressure when it is knocking?



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[ULYCYC]

My gut feeling is both pumps are shot. I would rip out the dual pump setup and install a single 340 with a hotwire kit. Pump life is around 5-7 years. I just changed my pump. It was 6 years old.
I put a 340 in and I have plenty of fuel. Never go above 43* line off even running low 11's

 

[teamgn87]

When the fuel pressure is 42psi, spark retard is 6 deg in 2nd and 11 deg in third.At 58psi I got 3 deg at the top of third.I am now going to overhaul the fuel system because while out tonight the stumble came back.While driving at light throttle my O2's went down to 046 and I got 35deg of retard and the car tried to stall.I was not in boost at the time,just cruising.It did it again about 2 minutes later this time I got 45 deg retard. eek! Im about to order a Walbro 340 and a new fuel filter.I got no codes on my scanmaster so I hope this fixes the problem.Any ideas on anything else I should check? dunno

 

[Steve Wood]

Make sure the hoses at the tank connections are not kinked or collapsed, ditto the ones at the front.



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