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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I think I have a problem with my MAF. According to my DS runs, I'm seeing that the MAF readings drop even though rpm is building and I'm at full boost under WOT! In fact, it really never hits readings of 255 on any consistent basis.

In any case, if anyone is interested in reviewing my DS runs and providing a second opinion, that would be much appreciated. We can take that discussion off line.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Scope
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'87 GN, mostly stock
 

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Fuhgeddaboudit
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Do you have a cold air box or ram air set up? If you do try putting your air filter (open) directly onto the maf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies.

As for the intake tube collapsing, I don't think this is exactly the case because as RPM continues to build, the MAF readings to increase. Basically, as I launch the car, the readings are in the 200~210 range, then drops down to 170's but builds back up to 220 range... very strange indeed.

As for filter, I have a K&N that's not directly connected to the MAF but on the elbow, i.e., pointing down.
 

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Well, maybe its time for a new MAF. Or, find a chip with an MAF lock that will force it to 255. (No advertisement intended :) ) Other chips (that I know of) that will lock the MAF are the Maxeffort and the Thrasher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi all,

I managed to borrow a good MAF this weekend and tested it with my car. It did max out at 255 and didn't dip as RPM rose, so I guess my MAF is bad.

Anyway, I have a couple of questions for the group:

1) Are there any drawbacks of going with a chip that locks out MAF at 255? If this is a viable solution, I just as well might go for it.

2) If the above point is not recommended, should I just get a rebuilt stock MAF or should I upgrade to Impala SS MAF (3") or even LT1 MAF (3.5")? I really don't want to spend the money at this time (I just got the car this year) and if solution 1) is workable, I would much prefer that.

3) Does anyone have any experience with totally open loop chips? I've heard that some guys do this and are getting decent results, i.e., setting the closed loop temp really high so the BLM's never get updated. Would going this route help my MAF situation?

Any help or advice would be much appreciated. I'm hoping to get the car in order for a local Buick day this Sat.

Thanks.
 

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I think Eric is probably best qualified to answer your questions.

I have run only MaxEffort chips for the last six or seven years. They are true open loop chips which are closer to a dfi set up than a conventional chip. One of the features is the ability to select a maf lock number. Default is 245 but it can be lowered to as little as 220 by the user.

As the ME works differently from conventional chips, I am not sure that the comparison is apples to apples, but, I think the idea has plenty of merit for regular chips as well even if the function is not quite the same.

Your maf may be so far out of whack, however, that it may, or may not, work.

Rebuilt mafs are an iffy situation. I would say that at least 50% don't seem to be calibrated correctly so it is a buy, try, return, and try again situation. :)

I have one on my son's T that has been on for at least three years and it works properly. I bought it from Conley and I don't know what brand it is. At one time Standard was considered a good brand but I have seen negative comments about them as well.

If you try one, be sure that the one you buy is not necked down inside which would mean it came from some other car originally. Just buy at a place that will let you return until you find one that works/runs properly.
 
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