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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this on "The other board", but I know there are a few who frequent this board and not the other, and would like to get everyone's opionion.

1st a little history: There was a pretty good thread going on the other board about misting the intercooler with water to up the efficiency. Pretty much from everyone's experience, we found that misting the intercooler will yeild about 30hp/.3 sec (of course exact results will be different depending mostly on outside temp and humidity).

OK, first: Anyone here running a misting system? I know a lot of DSM owners are with good results. I am thinking about running a system with a spraybar type setup. I plan on using the washer fluid tank to hold the water, finding some kind of intank pump to run it, and a check valve to keep the pump from siphoning all the water out. The only thing I am worried about is getting the pressure high enough and the spray pattern fine enough to completely evaporate the water as soon as it hits the intercooler. Any thoughts on this? I'm trying to cheaply get the stock intercooler close or past the performance of a good stock location upgrade intercooler.
 

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dont waste your time. its only worth a tenth NOT 30hp/.3sec.... Been there done it then sold all the stuff.
If you really want to do it heres some info:

You can get the pump from JC whitney. Its a plastic intank pump for around $24.00 under the RV section. Fits right in the washer tank and has I think 1/4" or 5/16" outlet. Made for water so no worries.
Checkvalve is a must. Many choices for that part.
Spray bar...hmmm..well I just used a misting nozzle that was adjustable mounted low in the center of shroud facing upward towards the center of the IC, cause when you moving the flow of air takes the mist with it.
I suppose you could hook up a boost switch to trigger it. I just used a switch.

BTW You can't use it at the track.

good luck.

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Joe Tripodi 87 Limited-T 12.29 on street [email protected] 1.73 60' Stock motor, stock tranny, stock turbo, stock injectors, modified neck stock intercooler, 62mm TB, ATR 7th injector, Dual Deadhead Alcohol injection, 3" DP with dump, southside lift bars, 2800 stall convertor, Hot wired Walbro 307. MaxEffort 8 position custom thumbwheel with: fuel out, MAF lock, knock nozzle enable, and variable timing 18,20,22,24,26,28,34 degrees.
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Why not just buy a better Intercooler? If your leaving water on the track they are going to kick you out.

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Mike Schoenfeld
 

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30hp/.3 sec ??????

Where did this number come from???

That sounds great. If you can squeeze THAT much more HP out of the stock I/C... then great...

I wouldn't believe that until I tried it for myself. That might be one of those "results may vary" and we might not know the whole story.

I would be concerned with the small neck on the stock I/C and the fact that the I/C is 14 years old.

I would think the purchase of a new V4 would out perform a stock I/C anyday, water or not. The picture says it all. Bigger tanks, more rows, smoother neck, tighter fins per square inch.. New design, not 14 years old..



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Current Combo: Stock Turbo, V4, MSD50's, TH DP, JayJackson 62mm TB, 16position MaxEffort Chip.
12.35 & 108.39 Street Trim.
 

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Orlando,

Wouldn't you think that the powder coating of the IC holds heat in. I would think bare metal would be the best way to go. Wouldn't it be really cool to find a way to expell the heat faster than bare metal? I've read articles about special products that due this very thing. I believe there used in the space industry. Just thinking out loud.

Chuck M.

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30 hp an .3......dammm right!!!! just read it in an old Kenne-Bell catalog!!!
just get a V4...I have em in stock...

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Chuck - Yes, I believe power coating is somewhat of a thermal barrier.. as well as most paints. That is why I ordered my V4 bare aluminum.

Also, I had raised this question before. The man himself answered the question of how in/efficient the stock intercooler is:

Click Here for the old thread.

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Current Combo: Stock Turbo, V4, MSD50's, TH DP, JayJackson 62mm TB, 16position MaxEffort Chip.
12.35 & 108.39 Street Trim.

[This message has been edited by Orlando_87GN (edited January 02, 2001).]
 

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Tony has noted that the idea that powder coating is a barrier to heat transfer is not true.



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Steve Wood

86 GN bought new, TE45/ported heads/CAS front mount/MSD50's/TH dp/210 PTE Roller Cam/9-1 c.r./65mmTB-Hemco plenum/2 3/4" exhaust/Eibach springs/GNX style wheels/MAXEFFORT 16 pos chip with gas out feature/venturiless maf

87 T-type-Stock short block/ported heads/red stripes/TE44/2.5" Hooker exhaust/MAXEFFORT 16 position chip with gas out

81 El Camino with GN drive train-basically stock 86



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Guys, I wonder if I am old-school in the practice of painting surfaces flat-black to help in heat emission?

The following is taken from a paragraph in the book How To Hotrod Small-block Chevys:
"Rate of heat emission from a polished surface is approximately one-tenth that from the same surface covered with a thin film of lampblack, and the emissivity of a cast aluminum surface is increased about 10% by a thin coating of black paint."

Another sentence reads:
"The black surface is more than ten times better in heat radiating ability than a plain cast surface."
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok here goes:

First, the .3/30hp came from a thread on the other board. One guy (dont recall his name right now, I will go look up the thread and dig it up when I get home) picked up .3 in back to back runs, only change was misting the intercooler vs. not. The 30hp came from a friend of mine that worked at a speed shop with an on site dyno. He had a 91ish Supra Turbo. One day after work he was playing around on the dyno (since it was free to him). He made a baseline run 1st. Then he made a run spraying the intercooler (stock front mount) with water. Picked up 26.xx hp. Made a 2nd run spraying the intercooler with N20, picked up 36.xx hp vs. baseline (though some of N20 could have found its way into the airfilter I'm sure). The 26hp figure seems to pretty well back up the claim of 3 tenths, especially when you consider that the 26hp was on a supra, with a front mount, that is no where near as succeptable to heat soak as our stock locations. Now, granted, both of these where made in high heat conditions, the Supra in Memphis, and I beleive the guy with the GN is located in the mid west. Obviously this will be a lot more helpful in 90* ambient heat than in 50*. However, I think one could optimize the system to squeeze a little more power out of, and to make it quite user friendly.

TTA89-Good point, but I figure I could make a relatively sophisticated misting system for $100-150, about one fifth of a V4 (Of course I will get a V4 someday). I am just trying to make a little cheap HP, and in Memphis heat this seems to make sense.

Orlando87- Good point about the airflow limitations of the stocker, I will probably try it with the stock untouched intercooler, and then with the duttweiler neck. You could look at it 2 ways, one being that the longer the air stays in the intercooler (due to airflow limitations) the cooler it gets, or, you could also reason the the restrictions in flow would cause more heat to be generated, I guess we will have to see
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I guess I will have to be the test rat on this one. I need to come up with a setup that is easily switched on and off, make a baseline run, then a run spraying the intercooler, on a couple of different track days, in different weather.



[This message has been edited by Mikel (edited January 03, 2001).]
 

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I say take your I/C scoop and strategically drill 6 to 8 holes in it for nozzle insertion. Use some sort of fan spray pattern that will cover the entire I/C. Hook them all up to some hose and a decent pump. Have a boost activated hobbs switch (like the ones XracerX sells) and try it out.

If this doesn't work out.. a brand new I/C scoop is only ~$58 from GM.

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Current Combo: Stock Turbo, V4, MSD50's, TH DP, JayJackson 62mm TB, 16position MaxEffort Chip.
12.35 & 108.39 Street Trim.
 

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I still have an interest in building a liquic I/C based on the stocker and wondered what about it makes it inefficient. Is it the neck, tubes, fin density, location, all the above?

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Scottie's GNZ
 

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Why not just hook up a trigger that turns on the pump above like 3.00 TPS? By then the IC should be hot enough to evaporate water, as it cools on the fins. Spray it from the front of the scoop like Joe said. I don't have any clue if it would work or not but sounds good. I might do this for kicks, with a junkyard washer pump...

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