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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I got a new pair of control arms with poly bushings in them. Took out the bottom bolt, then the top bolt and removed the stock one. Installed the new one with top bolt first and then on the bottom it seems to be about an inch off?

The control arms are not adjustable but same lenght as stock ones. I tried jacking up the rear and parts of the alex hoping to get it closer but it goes futher away.

Is there a reason for this? Is something bent in my rear end, or cound my car just be off?

I can almost get it to line up if I put all my strenght into where the shock meets and push towards the front of the car off a wall with my feet to move it to line up, but it looks like the whole rear end and drive shaft are moving too?

Just dosent seem right.

Thanks for any help! :cheers:
 

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assuming they are the same length as the original, the axle shifted. Gonna have to move it back in line.
 

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Did you oull the drive shaft and shocks? It just sounds like it rotated a bit. As long as the arms are the smae lenght just pull it back into place. Did you pull the tires off too?
 

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YI_work said:
Did you oull the drive shaft and shocks? It just sounds like it rotated a bit. As long as the arms are the smae lenght just pull it back into place. Did you pull the tires off too?
Be careful. When you undo the shocks you will turn the rear springs loose. Alot of stored energy in them. You could get hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well took the tire and drum off for more room to work. Springs are still in place, and if they go and fly out at me, atleast they have airbags! :D

Mesusred them, same exact lenght and hole placements.

Managed to push and get it back together, hope it all holds out well, ill find out tommormrow if it is the same on the other side.

Anyone have any idea what brand the arms are too?



 

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Only do one side at a time....I have read posts on this subject and they say if the rearend rotates on you to lower it a little so that you can re-rotate it back to its original position..........You do have the frame on jackstands and the rearend hanging free........?
 

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rear lower arms

OK, differential moved a little. I used a come a long, attached to front of frame side you are changing and secured to rear axle. A few notches and it will line up. As said, do one side at a time. I left the shocks intact.

wally :)
 

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Nicker said:
Well took the tire and drum off for more room to work. Springs are still in place, and if they go and fly out at me, atleast they have airbags! :D
You don't have to worry about the rear springs flying out at you when the rear end is hanging there is no tension on the springs. With a pry bar you can take the rear springs out without even disconnecting the shocks.

the front on the other hand is a whole other story, I missed a month of work when my spring compressor let got and crushed my left pinky darn need to a pulp. Been 3 months since and it's still pretty tender but at least I'm back at work, and I have almost half a finger nail growing back...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ouch, yeah I will not touch the front springs after some things I learned here, too scared. But yeah im going to do the PS side lower and upper and then DS lower and upper.

ES everything is 18mm, and quite a tight fit in some places.
 

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When I did mine I had the tires,shocks and springs out of the car and then did one top CA at a time and then one bottom Ca at a time. It went prtty easy. I didn't change the upper bushing in the housing after reading that the poly ones bind. I hear they are a biatch to change
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well everything is back together, man are those stock bolts hard to get off!!!

Anyways installing the swaybar again, and I snapped a bolt. So am I just that strong or was it just a bad bolt, or maybe too much stress from being on for about a year? Lucky I bought a bag of them.

 

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I missed a month of work when my spring compressor let got and crushed my left pinky darn need to a pulp. Been 3 months since and it's still pretty tender but at least I'm back at work, and I have almost half a finger nail growing back...

Rather than using a spring compressor, you can put a floor jack under the control arm, jack it up to put pressure on the control arm, remove the castle nut on the upper ball joint, free the ball joint from the spindle and slowly lower the control arm and the spring can be removed with generally a little prying, or it may fall out.......
 

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I do it that way, except, I have found it easier to leave the castle nut connected and remove the two bolts from the ears instead...BUT, I always safety chain the spring to the assembly so it cannot pop out...

The new spring seems to line up better when going back in that way and it is easier, for me anyway, to get the jack in place to go back up. :)
 
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