Turbo Buick Forums banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well...my brakes are pretty much shot, the pads on the front are wearing thin, i figured ill pick up some brake pads and new rotors and pop em on...i pretty much know how to do the front.

its the rear that i have no clue on... i have the cylinders that are leaking. and my drums i need to change and i guess boots etc....

so basically It would be great if someone could have a step by step proceedure on how to change the cylinders and pads and boots for the rear. do i need special tools also?

and what do you guys prefer for parts...i figured id go to autozone i think they have duralast stuff....

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,347 Posts
:D the rears are just a bunch of springs. do one side as a time using the side still apart as a guide and pop the springs off starting from the top going to the bottom. once the springs, adjusters, and pads are off you can pop out the wheel cylinder. i always take the bleeder out of the cylinder to give ya more clearence, then undo the brake line. theres a stupid retainer clip on the wheel cylinder- pry it out. the wheel cylinder will come out now.

now is the time to clean the hell out of the backing plate, and all the hardware. install the new wheel cylinder- put it through the hole and get a socket that fits about the circumfrence of the cylinder and put it on the back of the wheel cylinder when its installed through the backing plate. wedge a peice of wood or somthing between the axle flange and the cylinder- make sure the bleeders removed and pound the new retainer in with the socket and hammer. put the springs pads and adjusters back exactly as you found them- using the together side as a guide. once its all together adjust the shoes out untill there is a little drag when you spin the drum- then back it off a few clicks.

the only special tools you need are some brake spoons to help ya get the springs off. they are like little pry bars.

oh yea and when you get the adjusters out screw them in so you dont have to screw them in when you are putting the drums on- youll know if the pads are too far out because the drum wont fit on- and cut your drums while your there
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,001 Posts
do yourself a favor and pick up a haynes manual while your in the parts store


rears can be done with a pair of adjuster tools (look like bent flat screwdriver to back off the adjusters if the drums are worn) , the brake spring cap tool (looks like a nutdriver with a larger round head) and a pair of brake pliers (tongs)

if you look through the haynes youll know what they look like

wheel cylinders come out easy with a pair of scratch awls

get a hardware kit , at least 1qt brake fluid , and some cans of brake clean to clean the drums after you have them turned (or to clean new ones )
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top