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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Who has switched over to the after market harness?
Did you or where you able to record a advantage over the stock harness?
Also at what point would it become necessary or worth while add?
 

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The advantage would be knowing it was a good harness, If your old one ever got pinched it degrades the integrity of the wire. They are also 20 years old now and the ends can start to get brittle.
 

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Casper's sells two harnesses...one is a stock style replacement, and, the other is a larger wire...14 ga I think, that is intended for those using low impedance injectors.

A new one is good insurance against flaky connectors as stated above, or, for those with low impedance injectors like the 55s, 72, 75, 83s, and up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So, the general consensus is that if I'm running low imp. injectors and have an upgraded harness put it to use? I'm assuming there is less voltage drop through the upgraded one, or does that have nothing to do with it just new wire and connectors?
 

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the 14 ga harness has less resistance and will allow the low imp injectors to work as well as they can.

I ordered on earlier today after your post jogged my memory :)
 

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hmm im gonna order one up tomorrow to compliment my 83#ers :headbang:

never even thought about it- thanks guys
 

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Damn Straight!! :D
 

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As far as I recall the Racetronix harness has all crimped AND soldered terminals. All the other vendors are crimped terminals only. The main point of an injector harness is for reliability. Most of the stock ones are in terrible shape. Using a hotwire injector harness also eliminates your powerflow through tons of factory 20 year old wiring.

http://www.racetronix.com/RX-G7-INJ-AB.html
 

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Most of the loss is in the factory + feed to the injector harness not the harness itself. There is little to no improvement in going from a 16Ga. to 14Ga. wire in the very short wire lengths used in the injector harness. This is why the HW addition is important in some applications. This is all covered in our harness ad.
 

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We originally designed our 102037 14 gage injector harness for those who were using the old 55 lb. low impedance injectors as the factory harnesses were aged by then and the additional wire was a plus. Also, we specify the 14 gage when we build the race engine harnesses where we place 14 gage wire in all six of the injector slots...this way the 14 gage wire stays continuous and less lossy. Generally, our 102036 16-gage injector harness is all that you really need for stock applications.

We designed the 102033 high current relay harness for use with the old DFI B2B systems to fix the low voltage feed problem associated with the 16 gage positive feed wire in the GN. You would need that in a race application only.

And, no, we don't solder crimped sealed terminals. Neither does GM, Ford, Chrysler, or any other OEM manufacturers. In fact, applying solder-temperature heat to the crimped terminals quickly travels to the spring-tension area of the terminal and tends to "boil" the tin plating, causing high resistance and early failure of the contact area. If you use the correct crimp die, there is no need to solder the terminals. We solder ground lug and positive lug ring terminals only.

Hope this helps,
John
 

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In the GM service manuals it specifies that when replacing terminals all connections must be soldered. The Packard crimpers alone are not acceptable. That is directly from the General themselves. I don't want to get into a pissing match on this, just sharing information.
 

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They do that because most people don't know how to properly crimp the terminal, even using the plier-style crimp tools. And, there is no check procedures in place like the pull test that Packard uses. Remember, this procedure in the GM book is for a rework, not a new OEM installation. We use 3-ton punch presses with OEM die sets to crimp our terminals. They pass the "pull test" and "crimp integrity" tests because we use OEM style tooling. No need for solder there...

John
 

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Soldering is very labor / time intensive process which adds considerable cost to the manufacturing process. Car manufactures who contract people like Noma to manufacture their harnesses are forever trying to keep costs down as every penny counts when you are making hundreds of thousands of harnesses. Automotive harnesses are designed to meet a price point and have a finite life span.

Racetronix uses Schleuniger terminal presses to crimp our terminals. We then use Weller WSD80, WSD130 and WSD150 digital temperature controlled irons to ensure quality solder joints while retaining terminal integrity. Racetronix takes these extra steps to ensure reliability and longevity of our products.

It is funny how mission critical applications specify (medical field etc.) crimp and solder as a requirement but the automotive field in most cases does not....

So there you have it folks.... crimp or crimp and solder. It's your choice.
 

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So, Jack, it's your position that car manufacturers are wrong by not soldering their sealed terminals? That they're cutting corners by ignoring this step in building wiring harnesses for vehicles? With this scenario, you are saying that Racetronix harnesses will outlive the OEM harnesses because you solder and they don't, given their "finite" life span?

Say it ain't so, Joe, because if it's true, that's quite a claim indeed...

You show in your advertising that the relays you use are "mil spec". Is that true? I can't find a 40 amp sealed mil spec relay for under $140 US. Are your relays stamped with the JAN numbers as required by the mil spec?

One other question: How do you use 10 gage wire in a 12 gage terminal? Do you remove strands or do you just cram them in on your Schleuniger press dies? I've never been able to get the 10 gage wire to fit correctly. Or could that be the real reason you solder terminals? Wait, that was two questions.

Just a few curious questions and my .02 of observations...

John
 

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Gnx6 said:
In the GM service manuals it specifies that when replacing terminals all connections must be soldered. The Packard crimpers alone are not acceptable. That is directly from the General themselves. I don't want to get into a pissing match on this, just sharing information.
no flame intended- but read a NEW GM manual- since the late 90s we havent been soldering. everything is to be done solderless with sealed terminals. theres service bullitans about not soldering wires due to early failure- atleast i work in a dealer and when i do wire repair usualy theres a red warning at the bottom of the page saying do not solder

the only time we use solder is in the G6-cobal mirror inventory upgrade/recall when your replacing the mirrors- just becase theres no terminal just a circui board
 

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Strange, I would think there would be a lot of reported failures after 20 years if the technique of crimping as practiced by the factories is inferior.

I wonder if mission critical fields such as medicine routinely use equipment for 20 years? :dunno:
 

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ajt86 said:
seal terminals
Whoa, Pardon me.

Allways looking for improvements. I am interested in anything better than the cheap pliers(?) crimped terminals, that can be used at my polebarn.

Sorry, please continue-
 

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ajt86 said:
no flame intended- but read a NEW GM manual- since the late 90s we havent been soldering. everything is to be done solderless with seal terminals. theres service bullitans about not soldering wires due to early failure- atleast i work in a dealer and when i do wire repair usualy theres a red warning at the bottom of the page saying do not solder

the only time we use solder is in the G6-cobal mirror inventory upgrade/recall when your replacing the mirrors- just becase theres no terminal just a circui board
Document ID# 325249
2003 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado - 4WD


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Repairing Connector Terminals
Tools Required
J-38125 Terminal Repair Kit

Use the following repair procedures in order to repair the following:

• Push to Seat terminals

• Pull to Seat terminals

Some terminals do not require all of the steps shown. Skip the steps that do not apply for your terminal repair. The J-38125 contains further information.

Cut off the terminal between the core and the insulation crimp. Minimize any wire loss.
For cable seal terminals, remove the seal.

Apply the correct cable seal per gage size of the wire, if used.
Slide the seal back along the wire in order to enable insulation removal.

Remove the insulation.
For sealed terminals only, align the seal with the end of the cable insulation.
Position the strip in the terminal.
For sealed terminals, position the strip and seal in the terminal.

Hand crimp the core wings.
Hand crimp the insulation wings.
For sealed terminals, hand crimp the insulation wings around the seal and the cable.

Solder all of the hand crimp terminals excepting Micro-Pack 100 .64 size. Soldering Micro-Pack 100 World terminals may damage the terminal.

:6:
 

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wmsonta said:
Whoa, Pardon me.

Allways looking for improvements. I am interested in anything better than the cheap pliers(?) crimped terminals, that can be used at my polebarn.

Sorry, please continue-
so i had a typo- and was i talking to you?

the man said that GM says all terminals must be solderd- and im in a GM dealer 45 hours a week and know that to be untrue.

if you saw somone posting misinformed information you would correct them- ok let me go run this through my spell checker so i dont offend anyone :rolleyes:
 
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