[white shadow]

ok.we did a compression test and 7 cylinders all read 130#'s each but the driver side #1 cylinder was slow to build up and then it only came up to 115# so,we did the test 3 more times and same 115#'s.So,then i squirted some oil in the #1 cylinder and it then jumped up to 155# pounds.
Besides the obvoious bad ring sealing could it be the brand of oil i am using that's causing the 115# reading.LOL
PS:
I don't get any signs of head gasket being blown so it must be the rings in that cylinder.uhn.
I installed my new wastegate solonoid and hoses and the car really drive better.I also noticed that all my 43ts plugs were gapped at on 29" so i'm letting the car cool down and then i'm regapping them all to the recipe suggested gap,that's probably why my car is running real rich.i had just bought a plug gap tool from advanced auto when i installed the plugs last month but today i find out the gap tool is not accurate.

<small>[ August 07, 2003, 03:58 PM: Message edited by: white shadow ]</small>

 

[Steve Wood]

Did you hold the throttle blade wide open while doing the test? Was the engine warm?

Sounds too low to me if both of the above apply.

For a low mileage engine, I would have expected 145-155 across the board.

 

[white shadow]

we did not touch the throttle during testing , the engine was hot the plugs were rich incidently speaking.Why steve
i've been using 20-50w oil but plan to switch to 10-30?

<small>[ August 07, 2003, 04:32 PM: Message edited by: white shadow ]</small>

 

[Steve Wood]

To do a compression test properly, the throttle has to be held wide open...otherwise it cannot ingest air properly and you will get the wrong answers.

You have been complaining about the car running rich since you came on here. Why? I don't know. Maf, cam sensor, coil/module, bad injectors, bad ecm/wrong chip.......

 

[ULYCYC]

7 cylinders dunno

 

[Orlando_87GN]

I don't trust compression tests. You'll misdiagnose a blown head gasket if the cylinder is blown into a water jacket, or into the hole next to it. Use a leak down tester and never look back.. thumb_up

 

[white shadow]

I'll find a leak down tester.
In all honesty,this car seems to be running very very well other than it running a second off and ten miles slower than stock fashion.I really think that if the cylinders were only at 130# the car would run and idle like crap;i honestly think it might just have a small head gasket leak somewheres'. I will say that today i was able to put the new wastegate solonoid on and the correct y hoses and the little l shaped plastic piece that goes to the solonoid;car responded smooth and tighter as in engine felt stronger .My car ran 15.2 at 89mph last week with the wastegate solonoid hose blocked off with a screw in the hose,and today when i installed the caspers wastegate solonoid and hose kit ;i really felt a positive difference in the way my car responded verses before;today the car seemed to feel tight and stronger,it even automatically shifted easier.Of course the track times will be the real judge!

 

[white shadow]

i'm going to take the car to the track tommorrow night(friday night) and get some new times and mph with the new wastegate solonoid and hose kit and new coil pack and i bought a new spark plug gap tool today my other one was off because the plugs were really gapped at.029"ouch! and so i know the plugs are at .035"now.I'll leave the stock injectors in and my scanmaster2.1 should be here tommorrow.I'll run the car again tommorrow and then saturday i will install the new injectors chip and stuff and maybe get a chance to run it sunday.

 

[white shadow]

Steve Wood:
To do a compression test properly, the throttle has to be held wide open...otherwise it cannot ingest air properly and you will get the wrong answers.

You have been complaining about the car running rich since you came on here. Why? I don't know. Maf, cam sensor, coil/module, bad injectors, bad ecm/wrong chip.......

STEVE, Usually if a compression test is done with out holding the throttle wide open will it usually be "A"- a lower compression reading in the test of the cylinders per each or will it usually be "B"- a higher compression reading in the same test?

 

[jdodman]

I am with ULCYC ..
7 cylinders on an 87 T Type ??
Whats up with that ?

 

[Steve Wood]

REading should be higher and less affected by by flow differences caused by plenum, intake, heads.

A leak down is not much better at detecting head gasket leaks due to the fact that it only uses a 100# of air pressure and the gasket may not leak at that small pressure. It is better at detecting leak over a period of time, obviously-but not for hg blows.

Quit taking the car to the track until you have the scanmaster attatched so you can monitor timing retard. Otherwise you may be changing cranks.

Do the compression test properly.

 

[white shadow]

i a m going to the track tonight with my scanmaster.I also just got a factory intercooler scoop/shroud from micheal mc coy mine was missing.
Anyway it looks like it might rain

 

[Steve Wood]

Don't come back here and post that you saw 11 degs of timing retard, and, ask if that is bad!!!!

 

[white shadow]

What ever if you want me to learn something the hardway without telling me so be it.The bootom line is you say get a scanmaster so i get a scanmaster i say i'm going to test the car which is the only way for me to see if it's running the times.you said don't go until unless i'm using a scanmaster i say i will go with it and now you say something about coming back here and not to say anything about what the scanmaster read.i guess i'll just figure this car out the hardway.you also said get a compression test i did gauges idid adj fpr i did boost gauge idid knock gauge i did if you think i should not go to the track and test then what should i do ?

 

[Steve Wood]

Running full throttle for a quarter mile on a car that is not running correctly could be a sure fire recipe for building a new engine if there is a problem with the engine and it is detonating.

Have you read the instructions that came with the scanmaster? One of the things it reports is timing retard. Read the instructions with regard to timing retard reporting.

Timing retard occurs when the knock sensor sees detonation, or what it thinks is detonation, and causes the ecm to start pulling timing in an effort to kill the detonation and save the headgaskets, crankshaft, bearings and pistons from being damaged.

When you get the car running without missing, then go out and stand on the car in third gear. If the Scanmaster begins to show timing retard, get off the gas!

It should not show more than 1-2 degrees of retard going wot. If it does, turn the boost down until it quits happening.

If the engine mounts are bad, it may show a degree or two at the shift points....what you don't want to do is keep your foot in it while the retard goes 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, etc.

If you don't see appreciable retard, then you can go to the track.

 

[white shadow]

i appreciate retards but i just don't want my car to become one so,yes;i will perform the third gear test on the street as per your true advice.by the way thanks for the advice