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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I read the how-to on gnttype.org, but I am wondering if anyone has any advice for me before I install them. Any tips or "learn from my mistake" coments will be welcome. Oh, they were flow tested. The sheet I have says they average 35.4 pounds/hour. Thanks in advance.

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1987 GN 14" K&N, adj. wastegate, adj. FPR, XP Armstrong hotwired, 160*-stat, Hooker 2.5" catback exaust, Thrasher chips, shift kit, trans cooler, vdo boost/oil/temp guages, scanmaster v2.1, Kirban's front/rear frame braces, Hotchkis lower contol arms, variable rate rear springs, GNX wanna-be rims, and the rest is stock as far as I can tell...or too meaningless to list.

1987 Cavalier Z24 daily driver. 3-chamber flowmaster and 135db worth of stereo.

Shaun
 

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That about covers it. I took off the EGR when I did mine, cause I needed the room for prying. I would take the injectors off with the rail, and replace the same.
 

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The only thing I would add is to simply be carefull with the injector harness. Heat can take it's toll on wires and if you are too forcefull, you'll be replacing the harness as well.
 

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I always take the egr off...just seems to make it easier. I do NOT take the regulator off the rail, however, but remove the rail and regulator as one assembly.

You can use tie wraps to tie the harness to the rail and keep the connectors near the correct injector.

You do not have to reuse the clips that are on the stock injectors to hold them to the rail. I normally leave them off. They serve no real purpose as the o-ring on the injector top makes a very tight fit into the rail.

Install all the injectors into the rail and then set the entire assembly down into the manifold. You will find it much harder to cut an o-ring this way.

Blow out the debris around the top of each injector before removing them.

If the injectors have never been out, they will be stuck in the manifold, most likely.
You can take an open end wrench just large enuf to slip around the injector and use it to lever up against the lip of the injector until the o-rings give up their grip on the inside of the manifold boss. You can also use a big flat blade screwdriver for a pry bar as well. Just try not to chip the boss on the manifold.

Use plenty of grease on the o-rings on both ends of the injector before installing.

Be very careful not to pinch the injector harness under the coil bracket when bolting it back down and don't let it get close to the egr valve where it will burn and short out. The tie wraps help there.

It's really a piece of cake. Popping the old injectors loose is usually the only real pain.
 

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If the injectors haven't been out in a long time I spray a bunch of WD40 (or equiv) around the bottoms so that they'll come out of the manifold.

Be carefully prying the rail off, you don't want to bend it.

Be carefull with the injector harness as well. You're looking at about $80 to replace it.

While you're at it, you might want to replace the o-rings on the fuel lines (rail end & regulator). On a bunch of sets I've done, these o-rings were all dried up. If you've got it apart, you might as well replace them. Go to www.gnttype.org and you can find the part numbers in the Parts List.

When you go to put everything back together I find that it's easiest to put the injectors back in the rail first then set everything back into the manifold. I put a LOT of vasaline on the orings to prevent cutting or riping any of them. Once it's all back together make sure they're all seated nice & tight (especially in the rail) or you'll have a leak.

I know a lot of this was already said, but thought I'd add my thoughts anyway. Good luck... it's not that hard of a job.

-Banning.

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86 T-Type WH1
Wilmington, DE
GSCA# 4817
Web site: http://www.geocities.com/jamesbanning

11.80 @ 112.8mph w/1.57 60'

Mods (new combo):
PT51 turbo w/.63 housing, Ported irons w/stock valves, 218 cam, Powerstroke IC, 72# injectors, M.E. 16 position, ATR 3" DP w/external gate, DelTrans 200R4, 9.5" Vigilante, Eaton posi, Hooiser QT Pro's
 

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Be careful when you loosen the bolt on the passengers side, the one that holds the group of vacuum lines. It will stick to the little tab on the lines, and bend them, if you aren't careful. Replacements are hard to find.
 

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So?????????? What happened? Did your g/f back out of doing them and you went to the beach instead?
 

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Were you eaten in a remake of Jaws
X?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This week became busy suddenly. I planned to do them today, but I had to paint instead. Sunday is the day. Oh, and I don't have my thrasher chip for the injectors yet; it should be here tomorrow.
 

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Ok...thanks for the report! Don't be slow again or we shall send Zap and his crowbar out to help you!
 

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Originally posted by Steve Wood:
You do not have to reuse the clips that are on the stock injectors to hold them to the rail. I normally leave them off. They serve no real purpose as the o-ring on the injector top makes a very tight fit into the rail.

WOOOO WOOOOO WOOOOOOOO!!!! STEVE-OOOOO!!!

You MUST install the clips as they prevent the injector from being pushed out of the rail under high FP. The injectors will fit down in the intake far enough for the rail fitting to leak. Ask Dale Cherry!

If you'll notice, all cars where the injector isnt physically bolted in (like a Nissan is) the top of the injector is clipped into the rail for this reason. Theyre there for a reason dude.....put em back...



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Jim Testa
1986 Regal T-Type
Stock block w/girdle, stock rods, TRW's, JE pins, 214/210 roller, TurboMotion port/polished heads w/1.77-1.50 valves, T&D roller rockers, Champ intake w/o EGR, PTE plenum, Accufab 70mm TB, MSD50's, TE61, PTE front mount, SMC alcohol inj, JT trans, 3000 vigilante, stock rear w/Hotchkiss arms, and kick ass tunes..

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Almost there...just a few more nuts and bolts left to tighten. I'll be finished by tomorrow morning.

Here are some pics to prove it...I just bought a digital camera, so expect more


Before:


After:


Here's a close up of one of the stockers, they look pretty beat up to me; notice the black tips. I'm guessing that the black is from when I still had the factory valve cover breather on.


oh, and as for the clips: I don't need no stinking clips.
Well, I would have installed them if my car had them. These injectors have been out before.

[This message has been edited by shaunchrisc (edited June 04, 2002).]
 

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Originally posted by TurboJim:
WOOOO WOOOOO WOOOOOOOO!!!! STEVE-OOOOO!!!

You MUST install the clips as they prevent the injector from being pushed out of the rail under high FP. The injectors will fit down in the intake far enough for the rail fitting to leak. Ask Dale Cherry!

If you'll notice, all cars where the injector isnt physically bolted in (like a Nissan is) the top of the injector is clipped into the rail for this reason. Theyre there for a reason dude.....put em back...

Sorry, but that is a crock.


They were put there to retain them on the assembly line.

They cannot move once the rail is bolted down. I have not had clips on my original car since 1988. I have three cars with no clips and I have seldom seen a clip on any car in this town.

They have o-rings which make the seal and the 0-ring does not pop into any groove in the fuel rail. You cannot force the injector far enuf into the intake to pull it down out of the fuel rail.

Some of this folk lore makes me laugh.
 

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BTW, there are some shorty injectors that might pop down...MSD used to have some but none of the stock length injectors will go down. If Dale Cherry had one slip down, it was either a shortie or he took a four barrel manifold and drilled the bosses too deep.
 

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Originally posted by Steve Wood:
BTW, there are some shorty injectors that might pop down...MSD used to have some but none of the stock length injectors will go down. If Dale Cherry had one slip down, it was either a shortie or he took a four barrel manifold and drilled the bosses too deep.
You know, this thought was bugging me when I did my 4 bbl conversion. The bungs I used (and all I've seen for sale) do not have an internal step at all..the injectors are basically free to slide down until the barrel of the injector body stops 'em. So...I set the bung height by pushing them down as far as they'd go, and let that set the height of the fuel rail. I think if I did another, I'd make bungs with an internal step.


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Orange Park, FL
various cars, some running
http://photos.yahoo.com/frederik32212
 

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all this talk about the internals of bung holes just might offend me.......
 

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I think that with most injectors, the body will hit the boss.

We turbo'd a fiero and went to some larger MSD injectors and they were about a 1/4" shorter as I recall.

I have a missing bolt on the front of one side of my rail because the dealer broke it off when the car was new. I have been tempted to see if it would stay in place with no bolts in the rail...make it faster to swap injectors....
 

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Originally posted by earlbrown:
all this talk about the internals of bung holes just might offend me.......

TurboTim just emailed me and said you were secretly excited!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here are some more pics of the finished product. These injectors work great and the car idles smoother. Maybe for kicks I'll flow test my stockers to see how bad they are(175,000miles on them). I can't wait until I pop in the 108 thrasher and some racegas.






Thanks for all the help guys.
 

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Damn, Son....you got that thing looking good!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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