It's easier to make 500 on a cast crank!!!!!!!!! period..........
PS: cast= approx. 34 lbs. eagle forged= approx. 40+ lbs.
So how's that grab ya, a lighter crank will let the engine/car accelarate quicker although hp maybe the same at a given rpm however torque maybe more with a heavier rotating mass.
PS: how about 600+ at the rearwheels. 23lbs. of boost, 130+ mph and 3650 lbs. and just two steel center mains :6:
Estimated 560RWHP based on ET/MPH/weight formula which is probably 575+ peak on a dyno. Shooting for ~590. Stock crank/rods with ARP rod bolts and a girdle in a +.040 4.1L shortblock with SpeedPro hypers with the coated skirts.
Thanks guys. Not sure if I want to put my Eagle crank in the motor or spend the $$ on a roller cam kit. The car made 533 at the wheels with stock crank and 2 center caps. The $$ it would cost to get the flex plate, balancer, and machine work, just to use the eagle crank would probibly cover the cam.
if you have the eagle just put it in- its a nice peice, and its a good peice of mind if your gonna run it hard. alot of guys run stock cranks pretty fast- but its one of those things where every time you go through the traps, its like - sweet it didnt blow apart
look at the #s bannings putting up with a NA crank :yup:
I think the stock lower end is good for a bit more than 500 hp.
The real question is, "After 20 years, how much longer is it going to be good for 500 hp?"
And, that, is probably an impossible question. Too many variables involved such as how much detonation has it seen, how much rpm has it seen, how good was the balance on the rotating assembly, how good was the casting processing the day it was made, is it going to see 500 hp applied several times a day, or once a year, and so on...........
Only thing I know is that the faster you go, the more often something breaks...that is the way racing has always been.