Turbo Buick Forums banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Defender of the Universe
Joined
·
10,605 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't seem to get the head off of the block because of the hieght of the studs. I get them almost off but I can't lift the head up high enough to clear the studs. The head is contacting the bottom part of the heater core housing about 1/4" to 1/2" before it clears the studs.

Any tricks to getting heads off of a studded block? :confused:

TIA

oh yeah its an 87GN
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Take the studs out? I guess it's either that our pull the motor.

<small>[ April 25, 2003, 12:53 PM: Message edited by: Jack Evers ]</small>
 

·
Defender of the Universe
Joined
·
10,605 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmmm. How do you pull the studs out? This motor was built by someone else and I have never installed or removed studs. I would really rather not pull the motor. Hell if I could get the studs out I'd go back with ARP head bolts anyway.

Do you know whats involved with removing bottom of the heater core housing?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Do you know whats involved with removing bottom of the heater core housing?
Thanks.[/QB]
YIKES!!

Don't try to do that, it won't come out without busting it to pieces. Try double nutting the studs to see if they'll back out. One time Nick M went so far as to weld a bolt to the top of the stud and took it out with a socket and breaker bar.

<small>[ April 25, 2003, 01:15 PM: Message edited by: Jack Evers ]</small>
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
they should come out if you double nut them....street cars should not use studs in my opinion...not unless the engine is held in with dzus fasteners. :)

Wonder what happens if you remove the ds motor mount?

<small>[ April 25, 2003, 02:10 PM: Message edited by: Steve Wood ]</small>
 

·
Defender of the Universe
Joined
·
10,605 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got it!!! A whole bunch of Bullshidt for some stupid assed studs. I took the upper cover off of the heater core to see if I could get the lower housing to move just a little if I unbolted it.....NO DICE. I tried to get the head off again just to see if a miracle would happen and wolla. While the head was at its highest point I put my screwdriver handle under it. I was then able to use a 6"pipe wrench to loosen the studs. I lowered the head back and the studs came out by hand. Thanks for the take the studs out suggestion Jack, I might not have even tried this if you hadn't posted. Thanks. powersix
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,887 Posts
Studs should not have more than 5 lbs of torque on them. If they do, you could have some deflection. That is what Keith Wilson from Wilson Manifolds told me, what the hell does he know anyways! :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
I realize I came into this thread too late. If anyone else has this problem, just use a poly-lock for a sb chevy rocker arm. You thread it on the stud, tighten the poly-nut and unscrew the stud. You should only have to remove the long studs to get the head off. If you buy head studs from ARP now, they come with an allen head hole in the top of each one, which makes removal a breeze.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
I will be running ported heads/intake/72's/T-70BB built shortblock and curious as to whether I should stick with ARP head bolts or go with the studs? The heads have receiver grooves in them for FP1007 head gaskets. I plan to run 24-26psi when I get the tune finally down.

Any suggestions? I have plenty of clearance to remove both heads with the engine in the car. Another engine conversion car.

-GNX7
GN powered RX-7 powersix
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
I think if clearance is not a problem, why not go with studs.
 

·
Defender of the Universe
Joined
·
10,605 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Strange thing is that I definately got coolant in the oil but the head gaskets were both fine. I did want to change them anyway, I was told the Felpro 1000's were not as good as the stock HGs. There is the fact that all the driver's side studs were able to come out by hand, I think the head may have lifted a bit dunno . It turns out that the heads on the car have more port work done to them than the ones I wanted to put on...so I didn't change heads. powersix
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
43,735 Posts
studs should be basically finger tight unless you are weaker than me. See the comment above about the torque required on the studs going into the block. The nuts will pull the bolts studs firmly against the threads in the block when you torque the nuts down.

Be sure to use some sealer on the lower end of the studs so water will not seep into the chambers or oil passages.

Ask Cal for more precise instructions. :)
 

·
Defender of the Universe
Joined
·
10,605 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the tips guys. I replaced all the studs with ARP head bolts. I drove the car about 1.5 miles after the coolant started mixing in. The oil pressure hasn't changed. powersix
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
683 Posts
I know I'm late on my posting but removing the studs from the block is the way to go. My Daughter's T-Type has a studded top and bottom engine with caps etc. My GN has ATR's kidney plate plus the smaller heater core and the head comes right off without any problems.(their design for running a S2 engine like whats coming for my GN next year) I wouldn't run anything but studs because of the extra clamping force over bolts. Another way would be to remove the motor mounts and lower the engine and the head could be removed. Better yet is to remove the engine to check the bearings and oil pump P/U for debris. Your Choice to Whatever Turns Your Crank! Gene
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top