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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would appreciate any advice and help on how to hook up my water and oil pressure gauges that I just got from Kirban. I have the oil pressure sender and I a small sender for the water. Where do I install the water sender or is there another place to get the water temp signal from? How have you hooked yours up? Thanks for everyones help.
Brad
 

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Brad, I installed my VDO oil pressure gauge tee'd into the stock oil pressure sending unit.This allows the stock idiot light to work but more importantly the backup feed signal if the fuel pump relay fails. As far as the water temp gauge, mine is installed in the intake manifold, just to the left of the thermostat housing. It replaces the stock idiot light sender. Hope this helps.
Matt
 

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Hmm, if my car is going to over heat, I want the light to warn me.

Buy a VDO 1/8th" water temp sensor. This will screw right into the drain hole on the side of the block.

I got mine from Napa. Sorry don't have a clue as to what the part number was.

If you have a 4.1, this will not work, as there are no water drain holes on the side of that block


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Orlando_87GN, I don't have those idiot lights anymore since I installed the GNX cluster

If I see the temp gauge headed toward 250* I have a light in my head that would go off and say car is overheating

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Matt, thanks for the info. Orlando, I have the 1/8 sender from VDO. Can you direct me better to the drain hole on the block, what side and where? I also have the VDO oil sender that taps into the brass stock sender. I think I am going to use it. Please let me know boys.
 

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Hey Spoolin, I just bought the same setup, did you get their deal with both gauges and the gauge pod? That's what I got, and have been working on it this weekend. Did you get the temp sender and gauge? It sounds like you're looking for a different place than I installed mine. I unplugged the stock sender (green wire connecting to sender just to the pass. side of the water inlet hose), taped the end, screwed in the new sender and ran wire.
However I'm still slaving on the oil pressure sender. Is it the piece with a 3-prong connection, with three wires coming out, in that brass block at the start of the oil-feed to the turbo? It seemed like a lot of wiring for just an oil idiot light. But MattRI, you say there are more functions for that sender? I wanted to make sure before I unscrewed it. I'm definitely gonna buy a "Y" connection for the oil one, to keep both lights going.
Spoolin, I'll keep you informed and help if I can.
Matt, where in RI do you live? I bought my car from a guy in Providence, who owned another GN, and had friends who them also. Take it easy!

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87 Grand National w/ T-Tops. 0.030 over, forged pistons, polished heads, ported turbo, comp cams (206/206) and MORE.
 

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One portion of that switch is the idiot light, the other is the fuel pressure prime should your fuel pump relay die, the oil pressure causes the secondary circuit to kick in and run the pump. Get the T and use both senders.

I put my mechanical fitting on the turbo feed line, it is smaller than a sender.
 

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Thanks a lot salvage! I'll be hittin' the hardware store tomorrow!
 

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I'm hooking up an Oil Pressure Gauge too and have to ask: will the car start if the stock sending unit is removed? More precisely, does the ECM use the information from this sender to allow the car to start once enough pressure is built up?
Steve
 

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It is a back up circuit in case the wiring or the fuel pump relay dies. It allows the car to start in that case after building up 4 psi of oil pressure while cranking the car over.

Not needed normally but good to have if your wiring/relay go bad.

Think of it as the crank they give you with a sunroof car, you use it if the motor dies or the drive mechanism breaks. Good to have the insurance.


Use a T.
 

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Sweet! I used the T, got both senders in, and ran all the wire!! Went for the testdrive last night, the lights work well (tied to the dimmer) and the gauges have power, but they're reading all wacky.

At idle and normal cruising, I supposedly have about 10 psi oil pressure and am running about 250 degrees with the engine coolant. Hmmm, that don't sound right! But when I hammer the throttle, the oil pressure rises up past 40 psi, and the coolant temp drops to the 170-180 range. So that leads me to believe that the gauges are only working at full throttle ???
I'm gonna look at the wiring job from the senders again. The car is weird electrically. Over bumps and at throttle, the stereo tends to cut out. Also, I never grounded the senders themselves, since there was no indicated place to do it. Should I have to? I did ground the gauge, and the lights. The gauges are getting power, the lights are working, but the reading is all screwey. Any suggestions???? THANKS!

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87 Grand National w/ T-Tops. 0.030 over, forged pistons, polished heads, ported turbo, comp cam (206/206) and MORE.
 

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With no oil pressure system upgrades I'd say the gauge is dead on.


As far as the water temps. I'd put an accurate thermometer in the radiator after idleing the car to where your gauge reads 250, of course be VERY careful in getting the cap off it's dangerous at those temps.

You might have a plugged up radiator and a poorly reading gauge.

Just need some verification of the water temps.

Good luck and be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Guys, I can't find where to put this 1/8th VDo water sender in my engine bay? Where is this drain hole on the block. The fitting sender is too small to fit into the idiot light sender hole. This is a pain boys..
 

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There are 1/8"NPT drain plugs on each side of the block. The easiest to get to is on the drivers side between the motor mount and the dipstick about even with the mount. Hope this helps....Carter
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Carter and others. I will take a look, of course it is in a real tight spot I imagine. What isn't on these cars.
Brad
 
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