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Help give direction w/ bottem end knock

429 Views 4 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  87natty
Some of you may have seen a prior post but here's a little more history on the car. I'm not sure as what I want to do. So all input will be welcomed.

Car has 31k on an unopened motor (car sat for 7 years, not cranked). Now that I've got the car back out (year and a half), it started developing a tick on the rear driverside cylinder. Pulled the spark plug wire and tick went away. So I'm guessing most likely wristpin or rod bearing.

1)- How can I tell weather it's a wristpin or a rod bearing?
2)- If it's a wristpin, should I just pull that cylinder and fix the problem? And port both heads?
3)- If it's a rod bearing. Just pull it, and re-build the whole motor?
4)-Since my goal is low to mid 11's. Buy a junkyard motor, build it with steel caps, good crank, maybe steel mains, ported heads and go for it?

Sorry for all the questions, but my sorrow has me deep in this Especial.
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Scott...You won't really know what to do until you have determined the source of the problem.

My guess would be to locate the problem, be sure that is the extent, turn the crank, if required, pop new bearings in it and go...New rings would be a good idea, in case some are stuck, run a bottle hone thru the bores to scuff them up slightly...port the heads yourself...

If the damage is localized, you can get out pretty cheaply if you do the labor part yourself. No since paying someone a 1000 bucks for engine r&r.

These engines are pretty damn tough and I have seen 200k miles engines that would run elevens.

How to determind source of Problem? :confused: Pull oil pan and check what. Pull engine and tare it down?

<small>[ May 30, 2003, 08:58 PM: Message edited by: Getchasum ]</small>
I think I would pull the pan with the engine in the car. Pull the cap off number one rod and see if that is the problem. Proceed from there.

If you have a place to work, rent a cherry picker and pull the engine since you want to do the heads....If it is number one, or another, the rod really ought to be checked to be sure it is not out of round. Head has to come off for that... On the other hand, if the crank is okay, the big end of the rod is probably okay.

Ultimately, if you want to do it right, even without going bucks up for a rebuild, it is easier to work on out of the car.

I am always impatient to know the problem and it is pretty easy to pull the pan with it in the car.

Check up and down the block with a stethescope (is that how you spell it?) or if you don't have one, get a long section of heater hose and hold it to your ear. I'd also check to see of your rocker shafts are OK.
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