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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help freshening my rear? No "This is a good place for a stick-up" jokes either!

What have others done when it was time for some new stuff back there? I'd like to be legal and safe at the track (whatever that requires rules wise), and I'd like to have it last as long as this one has lasted. Almost 200,000 miles on this stock posi rear.
It has been grumbling around tight corners for at least 100,000 miles, :3gears:but it lays down two black stripes of rubber every time it's asked.

It seeps fluid where the axle tubes meet the center section, and around the cover. Also, I can move the right side axle, wheel and tire in and out about (guesstimate) 1/8". What causes this to happen? A mechanic who does inspections for me, says the bearing is going bad. Seems to me it would indicate play in axle clip/groove area. I've never worked on a rear except to check fluid levels though, so please advise.

I've seen in catalogs, that there are C-clip eliminators. Special blocks of metal with bearings that bolts to the outer end area of the axle tube. Has anyone here done this to their Buick? Does it change the in/out wheel position at all?

Thanks all! :cheers:
 

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the play in your axle is normal. it is the slack between the c clip and center pin. if you convert to c clip eliminators you cant go back. to install them you have to cut the end off your axle tubes where the origional bearing sets. as for your axle it may be in fairly good shape still .the grumbeling your hearing may go away with a fluid change and some limited slip additive. id take it apart inspect the bearings and race's put new seals in and fill it with synthetic fluid. it may last forever
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
buickturbo mike said:
the play in your axle is normal. it is the slack between the c clip and center pin. if you convert to c clip eliminators you cant go back. to install them you have to cut the end off your axle tubes where the origional bearing sets. as for your axle it may be in fairly good shape still .the grumbeling your hearing may go away with a fluid change and some limited slip additive. id take it apart inspect the bearings and race's put new seals in and fill it with synthetic fluid. it may last forever

Thanks for the advice. I'm a little concerned yet on the play though. It didn't do this until recently. The other side doesn't move at all. At least not an amount that is perceivable with my hands. The side I'm worried about is extremely easy to feel as it moves in and out. I'm talking enough movement to hear it bang at it's limit at each end of "the stroke."

I'm not real concerned about the noise since it is at least 100,000 since I first heard it.
 

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The "clutches" on one side are worn more than the other side. Years ago, they sold rebuild kits, I don't know lately. Because of the 2 intermediate spyders, one wheel cannot spin one wheel, without involving both "clutch" packs. It, therefore, will still turn both tires. Posi-trac style rearends are at best 50% bias.

It is normal for high mileage rear ends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So it sounds like it's more than a bearing worn for sure. I thought that was not likely. There's a really good place about 50 miles from me. I guess I will have a talk with them. They are not an all or nothing kind of place either. If it ain't broke, they don't fix it!

Thanks for the help all.
 

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i just went through this about a month ago, weld the axle tubes to the center section. i also installed moser 33 spline axles, c-clip eliminater, full spool, new bearings and gears. that is about as bullet proof as you can make a 8.5 for the track and a full spool is not that bad on the street.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Could someone comment on what NHRA requires re: rears? Is there a point where the C-clip eliminators are required?

Tom,
Full spool is different how than what we have stock?
Ballpark on parts and labor for what you did? Also, elaborate on "not bad on the street" please.


Thanks guys!
 

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a spool has no limited slip features, it locks both axles together, just like welding your spider gears in a stock set up. When you go around corners in an open or limited slip diff, one tire spins slower than the other, with a spool one tire drags because it is locked. installing the c-clips is no that bad, if you order them from moser they come pressed on and with instuctions to the modification of the housing which is cutting end of the axle tube off. setting the gear up on the spool requires a dial indicater and knowig the specs for the gear. i have about 1000.00 in my set up and did everything myself. the guys around here charge about 100.00 to 150.00 to srt up a gear.i think c-clip eliminater are required for 10.99 and faster but don't hold me to that.
 

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i rebuild my rear 2 years ago and i couldn't get the last shim to set the preload and backlash on the gears.

anybody know where i can get a case spreader at???
 

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You could call the dealerships-talk to the service manager. I have tapped them in with dead blow/soft hammer, but its not a good plan. I could not recommend it.
 
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