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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i recently replaced the coil pack but had the number 3 and 5 wires crossed, took me a minute but i figued that out, took the car out it ran great, the next day i went to start it up and it started on the first crank,then died 2 seconds late and would not start after that, any idea? dunno
 

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Nobody has posted better information on 'no start' than Jim Testa. Here is a 2 part collection of his postings on the subject:

1) Go to radio shack and spend $16.00 on a logic probe.

1.5) Verify 12v on pin M, pink/black wire coming from CCCI fuse.

2) At pin G of the ignition module, a dark green wire, backprobe with the logic probe and have a helper crank the car. If the logic probe blinks, the crank sensor is good. If no blink, then check for 12v at pin F, which is a gry/red wire. If you have 12v, verify a ground on pin H. If ground is good and you have 12v, then the crank sensor is bad. If you dont have 12v on pin F, the module is bad or the CCCI fuse is bad (Or a wiring problem between the fuse and module of course.)

If you have crank signal but no spark, the module is bad.

If you have crank signal, go to next step.

3) Using your logic probe, we'll check for cam sensor signal. Probe pin K, light blue wire and have a helper crank the car. Mind you the light will only blink every TWO revolutions. Let it spin a couple times to make sure the sensor hits every time and that its not flaky. If you have no puilse, verify 12v on terminal M, gray/red wire, and gnd on term L, black wire. If either is missing, the module is bad, or the CCCI fuse is blown (or the feed wire is open).

I doubt its the cam sensor because like I said, the ECM will NOT cause a no spark condition.

I think by now you will have found the problem, but if you want to go on...lets say you have ckp and cmp signal coming into the module. Now were gonna check it coming out.

Terminal C, a ppl/wht wire is ckp hi and is the signal used by the ECM. Backprobe this wire with your logic probe. Have a helper crank the car and look for blinky-blink. If no blinky-blink, then the module is bad. If blinky-blink, go to ECM pin B5 (ppl/wht) and verify the same thing. If you got blinky there, lets check for cam signal.

Go to module pin J, yellow wire, and verify the blink every 2 revolutions. If no blink, the module is bad. If blink, go to the ECM pin A11, yellow wire. Check for the same blink every 2 revolutions. If no blink, then theres an open in that wire between the ECM and module. If you got blinky, hook up yer scanner and crank the car while watching for RPM. If no RPM reading, and you have cam and crank signal, then the ECM is bad. (It wouldnt be the ECm fuse or power feed, cuz you have a data stream, proving the ECM has powered up) If you have RPM reading but no injector pulse (probe the opposite of the BROWN wires at the injectors. The brown is the power feed and the ECM grounds the injectors to fire them.) If you have RPM signal, but no pulse at the injector, then the ECM is bad.

BUT again, the ECM will NOT cause a no spark condition. So I doubt this is the case with your car.

At this point, your car should either be running, or on a tow truck destined for the junk yard as it defies logic

All the wiring diagrams you need are on gnttype. I know cuz I put them there. If you were closer, I'd get it running for you. Shouldnt take more than 1/2 hr to figure out whats wrong, and you wouldnt have to have a spare crank sensor and spare ignition module in yer garage.

This was posted By Turbo_Tim:
"The following was written by Jim Testa and is a very logical means of troubleshooting a no start. Looks like you are ready to begin step 3. Hope Jim's info helps you. It has helped me many a time.
"OK, to diagnose ANY car, you need to find what you have and dont have. The way *I* usually go about it (which might not be right to some people, but its methodical and consistant so I stick to it.

1) Note the check engine light (if EFI). If its not on, STOP and find out why. Listen to how it cranks. I can pick out compression problems doing this. If you are in tune to your car, you can too. Listen to the starter as each cyl comes up on compression stoke. You'll hear the starter slow down a little at that point. You bight hear deerdeerdeerdeer, where a dead cyl m ight sound like deerdeeeeedeerdeer (great sound effects huh?)

2)Depending how accessible the intake is, I'll shoot 3 or 4 seconds of carb cleaner into the plenum. Either thru the throttle body, or the brake booster vacuum port. If its a lack of fuel problem, the car may start, it may simply kick. If it does either, its time to look to fuel system (usually, although enrighening can bring out a low sec output problem too, so dont take my suggestion of fuel as law)

3) If the car kicked, I'll put a FP gauge on it. If fuel pressure isnt in spec, now you need to see why. Fuel pump, filter, resticted line, bad reg, low batt voltage, bad relay, blown fuse etc. If FP is in spec, its time to hook up a noid light and verify our injectors are getting pulsed. If youre not getting a pulse you will want to hook up a scanner and look for RPM during crank. If you are getting RPM signal, check for spark. If you're getting spark and no fuel, although there is a commanded PW (see below) you probably have a bad ECM. How fast it cranks isnt as important as the fact you get a RPM signal. Next you'll look at Coolant temp to see if it coincides with ambient )if the car is cold), and verify TPS isnt shorted to Vref which will put the car in clear flood and cut off fuel. If these all look OK, you'll want to take a look at commanded PW.

3) If the car didnt kick, I'll yank a plug wire and see if I got spark. If I got no spark, then I'll check also for inj pulse using a noid light. If I have neither its usually due to a dead crank sensor. If I have no spark, but I have injector pulse, its usually a module.
Typically:
No start - no spark, has inj pulse -> Module
No start - has spark no inj pulse -> ECM / cam sensor prob
No start - no spark OR inj pulse - crank sensor or module

Oh, and if the module is dead, I suggest putting a coil pack on it as well as most of the module failure are caused by an overheating or arcing coil."
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well i let the car sit overnight and after afew cranks it started up. now for the next problem, the car stock except for the kirban mass air pipe and an 8 inch k&n, at 1/4 throttle he car runs great, any more than that it spools up but wont go any further it just wont shift, till i left offthe gas then its ok again
 
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