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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally found someone local who was able to come out and degree my cam. It was 1.5 degrees advanced and within specs. He also checked my crankshaft endplay. The guys name is Mike Weber and he refused to accept payment. A really nice guy. Thanks Mike.

Now I want to check the play between my piston rods with a feeler gauge. Does anyone know what the specs are? I can't seem to locate that info.
 

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I believe they are.005-.015. I'll be surprised if they are in spec. Most I see are in the .025 range. I have not had any issues with this. I started a thread on this a few year ago most builders(Billy Anderson was one) didn't see any probs either. :6:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My crankshaft endplay was .010. Not really sure if I measured it correctly though. With a dial indicator at the snout of the crank, we used a screw driver to pry the crank back and forth. When we continued to hold the crank forward with the pry, it was .010, but when I released the pressure it was .008. Does this sound okay? I think I remember the specs being .003-.011. I can't find the engine section of my manual. I think I left it at school.

I will check the rod clearance tomorrow. I wonder if I should check the rod bearing clearance with plastigage. I really think this is all unneccesary, it's just that since the engine is out . . . . I'm still trying to find the source of my false knock.
 

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Your crank is barely in spec as far as thrust goes but it is in spec. I don't think anything your looking at will cause false knock.
 

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It is perfectly fine.
 

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ride side clearance

I've heard somewhere that too much rod side clearance can cause knock. Don't know if it's true or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Steve, do you know the specs on rod clearance?
 

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On my site under factory engine specs.

Gonna be real interesting to see how you check clearance between rods... :D

You are barking up trees that don't have cats in them. :) Or ***** for that matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Steve Wood said:
On my site under factory engine specs.

Gonna be real interesting to see how you check clearance between rods... :D

You are barking up trees that don't have cats in them. :) Or ***** for that matter.
I know you're probably right, I just want to cover as much as I can before I put the engine back in and the false knock rears it's ugly head again.
 

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chrisgarrett46 said:
I know you're probably right, I just want to cover as much as I can before I put the engine back in and the false knock rears it's ugly head again.
Chris, SW is right. It is nearly impossible to plasti-gauge rods w/rings on the pistons. Meaningful numbers from plasti-gauge are a complete science.

You have checked crank end play. Make sure the rods move freely back/forth. SW says .015". I would buy that. If the crank has been turned, all I care about is that the rod bearing is not against a lip from improper grinding. If ground correctly, that the rod bearing is not on the radius of the rolled fillet. The only reason to pull main/rod caps would be to check for bearing wear. You have very few miles on it. As stated previous, none of these things are likely to cause knock. On the subject of knock, check your cyl walls for galling/score-ing. Even these things would have to be somewhat severe for Knock, given your mileage.

Jeez, I gave up plasti-gauge in the '60's. Its about the same as trying to jet a car on pump gas. Good numbers from plasti-gauge are impossible without complete disassembly. JMO
 

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Knock....

Haven't been following this problem, so I assume the dreaded "false knock" is back? All that, after Groomes said it was the shot blast trash in the oil galleys?? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Old Buzzard said:
Haven't been following this problem, so I assume the dreaded "false knock" is back? All that, after Groomes said it was the shot blast trash in the oil galleys?? :confused:
Yes.
 
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