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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Who can recommend a good mechanic who can assess drivabililty issues with these cars, bearing in mind that performance mods have been done. Isn't there a guy in the oshawa area?I need a different perspective
 

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derek said:
Who can recommend a good mechanic who can assess drivabililty issues with these cars, bearing in mind that performance mods have been done. Isn't there a guy in the oshawa area?I need a different perspective


what problems are you having ? give me a history and what's going on ?????
 

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Hey Derek
Give us a list as Tim said, and we'll try to trobleshoot for you.

Paul
 

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QUOTE=derek]I've got an off idle hesitation and it has a cough,sputter at wot. I just installed a new turbotweak chip but that cleaned it up from my previous chip. New monroe TB.I bought a new IAC last year but this winter while re and re-ing it ,the shaft and spring came out so I shoved it back in.To make a short story long, I haven't set up the iac with a scantool yet, then I need to check vaccum leaks :crying: ,electrical grounds :crying: :help: , tranny not shifting good, TCC solenoid sticking :crying: :issues:[/QUOTE]


Sounds like a vacuum leaks to me, Let Paul have a good look at it, if he can get a big engine in such a tiny car, he can do anything!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
KWIKR 1 said:
what problems are you having ? give me a history and what's going on ?????
The current problem is an off idle hesitation ,that unless I pump the throttle it will stall when leaving a light.Once I get going. the car runs not to bad at about half throttle but at wot there is some sputter and coughing, just a general decrease in performance. what does knock feel or sound like? Last fall I had my directscan running and a code 45(rich exhaust) kept reappearing. Over the winter I was doing my front seal and noticed the dots on the cam/crank sprckets didn't line up so I fixed that. this is why I think a mechanic is in order cause there is too much stuff going on . I think I'm going to have to sell this car because I just don't have the time and constant fixing and tweaking is expensive when you have to pay someone.
 

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LOL Norbs My car isn't even on the road yet.

Derek
Sounds like it needs a general setup TPS, IAC, cam sensor, and the usual checks (O2 sensor, plugs, Vac & exhaust leaks, Fuel pressure, grounds)
Tranny wise, TV cable might not be adjusted right, Solenoid is a easy fix, just the tranny fluid shampoo that's a bitch (Unless you have a drain plug ?)

I'm curious about the cam. Was it advanced or retarded before you changed it to get the dots to line up?

I'm still waiting for a part for my car, so I may have some time, to look at stuff for you.
Don't throw in the towel yet.

Paul
 

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derek said:
The current problem is an off idle hesitation ,that unless I pump the throttle it will stall when leaving a light.Once I get going. the car runs not to bad at about half throttle but at wot there is some sputter and coughing, just a general decrease in performance. what does knock feel or sound like? Last fall I had my directscan running and a code 45(rich exhaust) kept reappearing. Over the winter I was doing my front seal and noticed the dots on the cam/crank sprckets didn't line up so I fixed that. this is why I think a mechanic is in order cause there is too much stuff going on . I think I'm going to have to sell this car because I just don't have the time and constant fixing and tweaking is expensive when you have to pay someone.
are you saying that the dots on the crank gear and the cam did not line up with the #1 cyl on TDC and the car still ran fairly well before you corrected the problem ?? tell us what chip you have , what fuel pressure (line off) , IAC readings , vac readings , etc . how did you reset your cam sensor when you reinstalled it back after installing the timing cover back on ???? did you replace the MAF at any time ???
 

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This is starting to sound pretty scary. Someone go over there and sort it out, I;m just too far away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
KWIKR 1 said:
are you saying that the dots on the crank gear and the cam did not line up with the #1 cyl on TDC and the car still ran fairly well before you corrected the problem ?? tell us what chip you have , what fuel pressure (line off) , IAC readings , vac readings , etc . how did you reset your cam sensor when you reinstalled it back after installing the timing cover back on ???? did you replace the MAF at any time ???
Check this post regarding the timing marks here The car did run but like a dog. I've been relying(sp)? on all the testimonials about turbo buicks to keep me going , and all the stares when I drive around. I've had a JC,Caspers, and now a turbotweak which was made for my setup. FP =42# line off, I've done the non-scantool method of IAC reset 20 times, vac readings on my boost guage are 15-25 in/hg when cruising. I used my casper cam tool to reinstall my cam sensor but it would'nt start then I realized that I corrected the cam sprocket so my TDC (compression) would have changed so I just rotated the sensor to compensate and got it started but never did recheck with sensor tool. Isn't the cam sensor more of a go/no-go type of setup? I assumed that but am I wrong? I am using a re-man MAF from kirbans because i thought that was th problem. I know I have thrown too many parts at it with more waiting to go on(convertor,alky, volt booster) but I know I have to get this other stuff sorted out.
 

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derek said:
Check this post regarding the timing marks here The car did run but like a dog. I've been relying(sp)? on all the testimonials about turbo buicks to keep me going , and all the stares when I drive around. I've had a JC,Caspers, and now a turbotweak which was made for my setup. FP =42# line off, I've done the non-scantool method of IAC reset 20 times, vac readings on my boost guage are 15-25 in/hg when cruising. I used my casper cam tool to reinstall my cam sensor but it would'nt start then I realized that I corrected the cam sprocket so my TDC (compression) would have changed so I just rotated the sensor to compensate and got it started but never did recheck with sensor tool. Isn't the cam sensor more of a go/no-go type of setup? I assumed that but am I wrong? I am using a re-man MAF from kirbans because i thought that was th problem. I know I have thrown too many parts at it with more waiting to go on(convertor,alky, volt booster) but I know I have to get this other stuff sorted out.


the cam sensor can be installed wrong and the car will still run .they can be out by 180 degrees . did you measure out the correct distance (1.47" BTDC) on the crank pulley when installing the sensor , or did you just slap it in ??? IMO vacuum at idle is what I'd be looking at not cruise .check out what the needle is "doing" and "where" it's at on the guage . you need someone/More Boost or ? to go thru it all and check it out . if your engine is in decent mechanical running condition with no "internal concerns" and the timing marks are "Correct" you should be able to figure it out with a little patience . are you sure you have the correct chip for the type of injectors in the car ? are you sure of the type/size of injectors in your car ? just throwing stuff at you to think about .let me know if you and whoever hook up to go over it and I'll try and come by and lend a hand . I'm not trying to pass myself off as a tuning/GN guru , just someone who's been there done that with owning one of these cars for a few years. good luck :)
 
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