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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok,Getting closer and closer thanks to everyone's knowledge in here,
Thanks Again !!!

Still not pulling very stong off the launch,
Convertor changed to 2400 stall,Stock chip,injectors and Ecm
New mass air flow,No exhaust leaks,Pulls hard on highway,
From a dead stop it doesnt ignite the salami's like it should....
Not sure where else to look..?
New Plugs,Wires and Fuel filter also,
40Lbs at idle with line off,

Anything anyone can think of.... These cars were great hole shotter's I remember this one seems to be a little sleepy still.

Steve
 

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okay, I assume you verified the stall? :)

Now, did you try it with the original maf as there was no evidence there was anything wrong with it...and most rebuilds are not calibrated correctly. :) :)
 

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OK, stupid question, how are you launching the car? Are you building boost or flat footing it?
 

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blupuick said:
OK, stupid question, how are you launching the car? Are you building boost or flat footing it?
you read my mind

so did they have the incorrect convertor in it?

Bill
:6:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Launch...?

Building boost before launch it will work not bad,
Flat foot is dead in the water.........

Stall has been verified Yes,

New Maf is night and diff to the old one,


Thks Steve
 

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fsmotorsports said:
Building boost before launch it will work not bad,
Flat foot is dead in the water.........

Stall has been verified Yes,

New Maf is night and diff to the old one,


Thks Steve
These cars wont roast the tires if you flat foot it, you have to power brake and get the boost up a bit.

you may want to consider some fuel system upgrades.
should also look at the iac settings I find the best throttle response with the iac around 35.
it's also time for a new chip. that stock chip really sucks. I reccommend turbotweak or something cheap until you upgrade the injectors

What are your future plans for this car? are you keeping it stock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
More_Boost!! said:
These cars wont roast the tires if you flat foot it, you have to power brake and get the boost up a bit.

you may want to consider some fuel system upgrades.
should also look at the iac settings I find the best throttle response with the iac around 35.
it's also time for a new chip. that stock chip really sucks. I reccommend turbotweak or something cheap until you upgrade the injectors

What are your future plans for this car? are you keeping it stock?
I will play with Iac setting's,I just wanted to run with a stock chip until I had the bugs worked out,Big diff with a upgraded chip ....?
I will go to have a look now,Future plans are unsure,
Im more of a Big Block Mopar guy than this,But I guess we will see,
Thks for your help too,Hopefully we can hook up in the near future,

Steve
 

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These cars are just like that with a flat foot launch, unless you are useing a higher stall convertor than the turbo needs but it still needs time for the back pressure in the exhaust to come up.
 

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fsmotorsports said:
Building boost before launch it will work not bad,
Flat foot is dead in the water.........

Stall has been verified Yes,

New Maf is night and diff to the old one,


Thks Steve
In what manner?

Car has more power? Runs smoother? Does not blow black smoke? :) I am assuming you tried the car with the old maf after changing the converter, and, before installing the new maf?

With the new converter, the turbo should come on much quicker when hitting it from a stop..but, it may still roll a few feet before it hits. If you put your foot on the brake and bring the boost to a pound or two, it should fry the tires.

If the car has stock injectors, they are probably not flowing very well after all these years unless recently cleaned and flowed. I would suggest a new set of injectors and a matching chip when you are ready rather than investing in a chip at the momenht. Just remember that the stock chip has too much timing for today's gas so keep the boost in the 14# range. When you upgrade, also put a Walbro 340 fuel pump and a hot wire kit on the list.

Be sure you are running a scantool so that you can see timing retard and keep from breaking something due to detonation. :)
 

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You see post all the time about what is the best upgrade.
Mine was putting new injectors and an upgraded chip in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Injectors

ES said:
You see post all the time about what is the best upgrade.
Mine was putting new injectors and an upgraded chip in.

Who is a good supplier for injectors ?
Ordered a Turbo Tweak chip,So I might as well replace both,

Steve
 

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1st, you need to decide where you are going with your car.
If you are going to stay stock, you could look for some used 30s (which are the best injectors I have used) or just have your stock injectors cleaned by Cody Motorsports.
If you are going to be upgrading, I would go ahead with 60s.
I run 50s in my stock turbo car but have heard that 60s are the way to go.
Once you get the cars running right, you can bust the tires lose without building boost.
Here is something I put together,
This first thing to do is not rag on your car until you read gnttype.org then do the spring cleaning at http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html.

The things to do after spring-cleaning:
Fuel pump upgrade & hot-wired - 150.00
Scantool - 225.00 – Scan Master, Turbo Link, or Direct Scan (Turbo Link & Direct Scan require a computer, Scan Master is self contained)
Adjustable Fuel Pressure gauge that you can read while driving – 75.00
Boost gauge – 50.00
9 in K & N – 45.00
Gutted catalytic convert – free if you can get away with it.
Adjustable waste-gate – DIY or 85.00 new
Turbotweek chip or other chip burner – 75.00

Replace timing chain & vale springs - less than 100.00 if DIY


The above should get you a good running 13 second street car.

To get a 12 second street car:

Stock turbo -no need to upgrade
Stock injectors – no need to change but cleaned – 60.00
Large neck put on stock innercooler - 75.00
Ported elbow on down pipe – DIY or buy for about 40.00
Boxed lower control arms – DIY for about 25.00 or buy for about 85.00
ATR sway bar (could get by without) - 180.00
Nitto DR - 300.00
Alky injection - 450.00
 
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