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Geez..false knock again

664 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Zap
After thinking my false knock was fixed, up jumps the devil again. With straight race gas, I can't push 15 pounds of boost into the motor without pegging the knock detector. It retards the timing so much that I fall flat on my face.

Again, it pegs the knock detector on a short stab of the accelerator in park or neutral. Yet, I can bring the motor up to 4,500 RPM against the transbrake with absolutely no knock indicated.

I'm starting to think that something in the drive train, some rotating part might be giving me knock indication. How about a pinion angle problem. I know I'm getting obscure but it's out of despiration.

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TE45, 55lb Injectors, V4, ATR Heads, 218/218 Flat Tappet Cam, C-P Forged Pistons, 16 Position Max Effort, new best 03/29/02: 11.13 @ 121
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pinion ain't turning in park.

Could be a noise in the front half of the tranny or converter, tho. Converter bolts tight.

Do what you did last time and see what happens.



Of course you are correct about the pinion not turning in park. The more I struggle with this situation, the dumber I get.

What really gets to me, Steve, is that I can bring it up to 4000 to 4500 against the transbrake and not a hint of knock. I can bring it up slowly to 4000 without knock. A quick stab of gas pedal and I can get 30 degrees of retard.

I redid everything that worked last time (disconnect tie down, new plugs, clean all connections) and no dice.

I am pulling this engine and replacing it with another that is equipped with a 214/214 roller and roller rockers. This car will not get the best of me until I completely run out of money (soon).



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TE45, 55lb Injectors, V4, ATR Heads, 218/218 Flat Tappet Cam, C-P Forged Pistons, 16 Position Max Effort, new best 03/29/02: 11.13 @ 121
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did we (you) ever check the thrust clearance on the crank? Change the converter?

Taken a stethoscope and listened to the valve train while blipping the throttle?

What bothers me is that the thing would not run correctly with the knock sensor unplugged....therefore, it tells me that the engine was misfiring when it hit that spot. I wonder if it misfires, now, when you unplug the sensor?



If it still cuts up in that rpm range with the sensor unplugged at the sensor, what happens when you unplug it at the module?

What happens to the fuel pressure when you blip it in park and it cuts out?



Try it in reverse with transbrake (engine will torque toward drivers side) to see if you get any knock then. Might give you an idea where to look to see if something is hitting.

Short stabs of the accelerator and the engine is torqueing over quickly (bouncing). Same deal when the car runs down the track, the car is shifting, and I would think the engine would torque over (and bounce) on shifts. At 4500 rpm against the transbrake, the engine stays torqued over toward the passenger side.

Just taking a stab!



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