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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i keep blowing the fuel pump injector fuse....problem is intermitant and hard for me to solve...does anyone have a wiring diagram for this circuit that they could e mail me...i think im going to go threw the wiring bit by bit...thanks
 

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Most common problem is the oil switch wiring on the front of the engine by the cooler adapter. It shorts out. Particularly if the connector has been removed and a gauge sendor installed.

I will send you the schematic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
we actually just added a guage to it...how can i bypass it to test if its the switch shorting to ground??i beleive theres four wires on it..the pnk/blk to the gry...and the other 2 ??

thanks for the diagram steve
 

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Another common problem is the black connector behind the alternator. This is the fuel pump prime wire. Sometimes the connector is missing or just plain touching something metal. This will blow the fuse if the car is running. powersix

<small>[ August 15, 2003, 11:10 PM: Message edited by: Orlando_87GN ]</small>
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
and if i want to bypass the oil pressure switch to test...how would i do so??
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i tried jumping pnk/blk wire to grey..and pump ran all the time with key on...taped all the wires seperatly and tried...car ran fine...but blew a fuse 20 mins out...they always blow when coasting or decelerating...prime wire is taped off...where the f/p relay located??...any other ideas??
 

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Did you retain the oil pressure lite, or, did you eliminate the pressure switch and leave the connector dangling?

Have you checked your hot wire all the way down the run from front to back to make sure it has not rubbed thru and can touch metal along the way?

What pump, how old? Wondering if it is pulling too much current when it has been on for awhile?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
walboro 340 pump with hotwire kit...its fuse hasnt burnt yet...all three wires were taped off...hotwire...your talking about the factory power wire??where does it run??
 

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I was talking about the hot wire that was added.
factory wiring runs thru the car to a connector in the trunk, I believe.
 

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I'd check the fuel injector harness myself. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the added hot wire has its own fuse and i havent had a problem yet...im going to check the injector harness again...thanks guys
 

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most likely places are the egr valve area and around the coil/module-mounting bracket
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
where does the f/p wire run??i know it ends up in the trunk...does it run along the floor on inside of car??checked the inj.harness...cant see anything??
 

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Connector 209 on the diagram I sent you is attached to the left side of the fuse block and has 11 cavities.

Connector 320 is in the left hand corner of the trunk and has 6 cavities.

Tan wire along the inside drivers side of the car between 209 & 320 as per the diagram.

Will the fuse blow after sitting still for 20 minutes or only after hitting a bump?

As you have a hot wire kit, all fuel pump current should be on it and not the original wiring. Therefore fuel pump current draw should not be pulling against the fp/inj fuse.

Will the car blow the fuse if the pump has been on for 20 minutes, but sitting still.

Wondering about isolating the FI circuit from the fp circuit somehow.

You are sure that the pink/black wire going to the old oil switch is not rubbed thru and getting to ground somewhere on the front of the engine? And that the gray fuel pump test lead is not getting to ground?
 

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Are you sure the hot wire kit is hooked up correctly. The power feed from the stock location fuse should go to the "trigger" side of the relay at the tank, and that side of the relay is going to limit the current to much less than it would take to blow the fuse. Maybe the "hot wire" lead and the other lead are on the wrong sides of the relay?
 
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