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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All of this AFTER installing a hot-wired 340.
Fuel pressure would not go below 34 PSI before installation.

Currently, fuel Pressure will not go any lower than 45 psi, and is giving me a code 45 (rich).

Switched FPR's - Same result.

Took off FPR and blew 100+ PSI air through the return line, w/gas cap off -Same result.

Took off return line hose above tank then repeated with compressed air. -Same result.

Disconnected return hose by the front of the car where it necks down. Ran hose into a gas can. 32 PSI! Aha!

Connected front hose back up. Disconnected the return line hose above the gas tank. Ran hose into the gas can. 45 PSI! WTF!

Looked for kinks in the return line. The only place visible may be where it goes over the frame, right before the tank. Bent from the factory?

What next?

Is changing the fuel return line possible, WITHOUT removing any major components?

Or should I cut off the suspected bottle-neck and run a 1/4" rubber fuel line as a replacement?

Thanks for ANY replies.

Geoff



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1987 Buick Grand National
40#, KB Adj. FPR, KB exhaust. KB ultimate chip, Walbro 340, Adj. Wastegate, Pinion Snubber.

1985 Buick T-Type
Accufab Adj FPR, Walbro 340, Adj Wastgate, Pinion Snubber, 9" K&N
Currently in pieces!

1985 Toyota 4x4 Ext-Cab
4" susp. lift w/33's
Daily Driver
NWOR Cam & Header, Weber Carb.
 

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Sounds like a plan. Double clamp it at least on each end. But first double check the front hose you first took off to make sure it's not bad; maybe it's collapsed.

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87 GN
Stock, basic mods, etc.

[This message has been edited by blkmagk (edited May 04, 2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply! Yeah, I think that I'm going to replace the front hose first. It may be collapsing because of it being necked down. It flows fine by itself.


I'll post the results either way.

Geoff

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1987 Buick Grand National
40#, KB Adj. FPR, KB exhaust. KB ultimate chip, Walbro 340, Adj. Wastegate, Pinion Snubber.

1985 Buick T-Type
Accufab Adj FPR, Walbro 340, Adj Wastgate, Pinion Snubber, 9" K&N
Currently in pieces!

1985 Toyota 4x4 Ext-Cab
4" susp. lift w/33's
Daily Driver
NWOR Cam & Header, Weber Carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay, time for an update! Fuel pressure is still high!!! The exhaust is so rich that my eyes burn from the exhaust fumes.
The rubber section of the return line up front, was replaced with NO effect on the fuel pressure.

As of today, I still need to:

Check the VOLTAGE to the pump, and make sure that the voltage is not too high.

Block off return line the check the pump bypass, (Right, Steve? )

One last blow through with compressed air. Only this time in reverse. From the hose above the tank, to the front by the rubber hose connection.

All this, and my speedo is crapped out also(code 24)!!! But that'll be an entirely different thread.........


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1987 Buick Grand National
40#, KB Adj. FPR, KB exhaust. KB ultimate chip, Walbro 340, Adj. Wastegate, Pinion Snubber.

1985 Buick T-Type
Accufab Adj FPR, Walbro 340, Adj Wastgate, Pinion Snubber, 9" K&N
Currently in pieces!

1985 Toyota 4x4 Ext-Cab
4" susp. lift w/33's
Daily Driver
NWOR Cam & Header, Weber Carb.
 

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Right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL

got ahead and cut out the bent looking piece in the rear and replace with high pressure FI hose. If it is in a place where it might chafe against the frame, put a larger piece of hose over it to protect it.

I believe it is impossible to replace the entire line without lifting the body out of the way but I may be wrong.

Seems like Cotton was selling replacment lines but I bet they are multi-piece.

You could run a new line for the supply and use the current supply line as the return-ala Ricky Racer.

Me, I would cut out the offending joint and hose it!

I never think when I go out to the shop to crank up the car that we put the 340 in the other day and see what it will drop to. I know I turned it down to 40 once.



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Steve Wood

86 GN bought new, 87 T-type-81 El Camino with GN drive train-basically stock 86, 94 Caprice 9C1, 69 SS396 Camaro Convertible
 

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Out of desperation I would perhaps disconnect any connections on the return line and prod with a wire of some sort to try and dislodge or loosen any obstructions. I Might also put the car up on stands, have key on/engine off or short the fuel pump from behind the alternator as to have fuel pressure and lightly tap on the return line front to rear with a piece of wood or urethane hammer with the same hope of dislodging any obstructions.

[This message has been edited by KENNE-BILL (edited May 27, 2001).]
 

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I like Kenne-Bills' idea, start with a wire poking where the return line necks down under the steering box. Worked for me this winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replies!

As far as the piece of wire goes. I did try a length of nylon "weed whacker" line. I believe the diameter was .050" or .065" It would get stuck about a couple of feet in. I'll try it again with a piece of wire, the next chance I get. Prior to blowing out with the compressor. What kind of wire do you think might work? It has to be rigid, yet flexible enough to negotiate all of the bends.

Aloha,
Geoff
 

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Steel spring wire or iron wire that is about half the diameter of a coat hanger.
 

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Something like an old speedometer cable may work.. Just pull the inside out of it..

Kevin.

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87GN, 12.05 @ 111, SIXTY FOOT 1.60-LAUNCH 15#, BOOST 25-26 LBS (YEP OVERKILL FOR COMBO), BONE STOCK LONG BLOCK, STOCK I.C. (BELL MOUTHED), STOCK TRANS/CONV, TE44, 009'S, RED'S 107 CHIP. HOME MADE 3" DOWN PIPE. RUNS CONSISTANT 12.10'S-12.11'S.

http://www.geocities.com/kdslaby/solidworks.html
 
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