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Defender of the Universe
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finished replacing my rod bearings and I went to crank the car and it won't crank. I mean it won't turn over at all. The starter is trying but it seems that the bearings are to tight. Now I did this a few weeks ago and it seemed tighter with the new bearings but I was able to get the car cranked. I didn't install the rod bolts properly that time so I've redone the job and now its like the starter doesn't have enough torque to turn the crank. I used the same bearing as before and I used the stock rod bolts torqued to 40ft/lbs (I did bump them a little past 40 but not by much...maybe 43ft/lb). Are new bearings supposed to make the engine hard to spin at first? dunno
 

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Premium Member
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No! Something is totally wrong...the engine should be easy to turn over.

Time to find out what is locked up.
 

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Someone Crown My Ass!
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More than likely you have a bad bearing or two from the prior mishap. They are cheap. I would change them all. Not second guessing here but are the caps on correctly, not backwards?
 

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Fuhgeddaboudit
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Something is not right. Try and narrow it down, Disconnect all the rods and pushup out of the way. With everything off of the crank you should be able to turn easy by hand. If not then it's bent, thrust problem or cap/bearing problem. Put one rod on at a time and try. should turn a little harder but not binding. Do this to each rod one at a time. It binds then you have a bent rod, wrist pin or bearing problem. This is a back yard test. I would bring it to a machine shop and have all parts checked for straightness, clearance, then magnaflux and aligned bore
 

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Do I understand that since the ticking noise started, you changed the bearings, ran the car, then decided to change rod bolts?

Normally, you should be able to move the rods side to side very slightly once torqued down. There should be nothing that binds and makes the engine hard to turn over.

Did you check the mains while you were at it?

At this point we don't know if you have a bearing that is not snapped into place correctly and is locking the crank, a spun bearing, or distorted rod ends.

I think Ed's advice is about the minimum you should consider.
 

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The minimum would be to pull the pan,and check to see if all the rods can be moved side to side, just a little. If only one bearing is ****ed, not need to remove everything. And if you didn't remove the main caps after the first time you put it together, they should be Ok.. maybe.
 

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Weird censorship in post above. I mentioned that one bearing might be coc.. (put in crooked) ked, and the softward changed it *****
???
I guess I can't mention a kitty cat, or what a doctor does when he/she sticks a needle in your finger, either...
 

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Shame on you for pricking ***** cats!
 

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Defender of the Universe
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys and gurus. I may have put on a rodcap backwards or something. I'm more inclined to believe that happened than anything serious requiring Machine work. Why you ask. Because this is a fairly fresh motor (maybe 20k miles) that has never overheated. I'll drop the pan again and do Ed's test and check side to side play. I did change all the rod bearings and I haven't changed the main bearings.

Yes Steve I changed the rodbearings after I got that noise and I didn't install the bolts properly and I just put in a fresh set of stock rodbolts in place of the ARP's that were there...I did use a fresh set of bearings agian also.

Well one thing is for sure....I'm going to be the oil pan removal King of the community. powersix
 

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A couple of concerns"

one that the rod was not resized properly when the engine was rebuilt...if at all

And that you distorted one or more with the bolt torquing, bolt changing, etc.

Hopefully, not...but, use a good torque wrench and use factory specs...Don't use more.
 

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Resident Idiot
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Let me ask this: When you changed the rod bearings, did you install the ARP rod bolts at that time? Then you switched back to stock rod bolts?

Hey, you need to install a zipper around your oil pan, or just install it with wingnutz.... silly
 

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Wendy, it sounds like you opened a can of worms! Pull that motor and check it on a engine stand. Don't waste time doing it in the car. I always number the caps so to install them correctly. It is time to pull that motor apart, have the rods checked and resized, always check bearing fit, crush with a mic not plasta-guage! I'm still wondering why the rod bolt loosened? Installing ARP rod bolts requires some machining on the cap shoulder! Buick rods will make big HP with just shotpeening and polished beams and are worth installing ARP Bolts! My opinion! Good Luck! Gene
 

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Defender of the Universe
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Steve,
If the rod wasn't resized or resized properly when it was rebuilt then I'd have no way of knowing that. I received the motor as a complete and assembled longblock.
As far as distorting it with bolt torqueing or changing, when I put the bolts back in the first time (ARPs) i didn't put them tight enough. And I changed them to the stockers which is where I am now. The motor hasn't made one revolution with the stock bolts in the rods.

Zap,
I made sure that the bearings all were the right size. I looked on the bearings themselves for .010 stamp. I haven't touched the main bearings.

Orlando,
No I never installed the ARPs they were there already. I reinstalled them when I did the first bearing change. I contacted ARP and they gave me procedure that was a mile long about properly installing their rod bolts...had to use a stretch gauge and stuff I just don't have. So I opted to remove them and use the stockers, but now i'm haveing this problem.
An oilpan zipper...now thats a thought.

Gene,
I hope this can be resolved without going that route. I say I hope because you may be right. I think that I may have just installed a cap or two backwards. I'm thinking that the rod bolt loosened in the first place because I didn't install them properly (according to the ARP tech guys). And the reason I even had to change the bearings in the first place was because I blew a headgasket and coolant had its way with them.


OK this is whats going to happen. I am going to pull the pan again and see if the rods wiggle by hand. I suspect that there will be at least two that don't. I'm going to flip the cap around and see if it wiggles. If it don't the motor is coming out. If it does then I'll loosen and retorque all the bolts to 40ft/lbs and zip up my oilpan.
Thanks for all the help, opinions and advice.

powersix headbang
 

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I hope you made sure that the rod cap that came off a given rod, went back on that rod. They cannot be interchanged between rods.

On cylinders 1,3,5----the chamfered corners on the bottom of the rod cap go toward the front of the engine.

On 2,4,6.....the chamfered corners go to the back of the engine.

That is a quick way to check if they are on correctly.

Running the engine with the caps improperly torqued with the arp bolts may not have done it anygood...I guess time will tell.
 

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Register Boozer
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I'm thinking you should have resized the rods after switching from the ARP's to the stock bolts. Do you know of your crank was cut during the rebuild? If so or not, your bearing might be different or I'd say bite the bullet and pull it out and do it right, you'll thank yourself later.
 

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Defender of the Universe
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Steve,
Yes I was sure about putting the caps back on the rod they came off of....I did 1 rod at a time to be sure of that. Thanks for the info on the corners that'll come in very handy!

87natty & Zap,
This crank is .010 under on the rod bearings...don't know about the mains. I'm trying to get this thing to a point that I can drive it and have a little fun while another motor is being rebuilt. When my other rebuild is finished I'll pull this one and have it checked out and fixed accordingly.

I'm going unzip my oil pan and check out stuff....be back in a couple of hours. powersix
 

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Defender of the Universe
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK. I did it. The car is running and not making any of the funny assed noises it was before. There were two rod caps on backwards ugh . I flipped the caps back the way they are supposed to go and retorqued all the bolts to 40ft/lbs. The car fired up without problem and seems to be doing fine. Thanks for all who helped. I will still get this motor checked out when my rebuild is done on the other motor and I have something else to terrorize the ricers with headbang .
 
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