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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Who can tell me what ALL of the free mods are? Also, I'd like some info on blocking the coolant hoses on the throttle body and how to hook the engine tie down strap up, if anyone can help me, I appreciate it. I was looking into hooking my tie down up, but it seems like I am missing a bracket or something because my friends 87 GN has something totally different. Thanks!

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87 GN
 

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Cleaning your intercooler is one free mod.
Some cheap mods are a gutted cat, t-bolt clamps on your hoses, 160 thermostat, not cheap but needed, 9 in K&N.
Don't run the strap and my lines were already blocked so I can't help you on those 2 questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What's a t-bolt clamp for a hose? I've done almost all of the usuals to my car, just wanted to see if there is anything that I'm missing. How about lightening the car? Anything that I can take off that might save me some weight (besides taking out the spare and getting different wheels)? Thanks!

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t-bolt clamps are clamps that have a bolt on them that will thighten down and will not lossen over time. You can find them for a about 3 bucks at a business that sells big truck parts.
I don't think weight reduction is much of a factor unless you gut the car.
The best thing is to have the car in top running condition.
Plug wires, new fuel filter, plugs, 02 sensor, and PVC valve.
 

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On most of the cars that I work on I loop the coolant line back in the rail and bypass the TB compltely. Use a scrap fuel hose etc. with the same id.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the help!

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87 GN
 

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Clean out I/C

Install 160* thermostat. Just buy a 160* chevy unit at your favorite parts store and trim to fit.

Block off (or loop) throttle body coolant lines. I like to block them off with the little colored plastic tacks. Just snip off the tack part and insert the plastic piece into the line. One on each hose for that "stock appearing look"
Fits inside the hose nicely and blocks the coolant from reaching the TB.

AC R43TS plugs gapped at .032"

Get a set of Red Armstrong's plug wires. (~$20).

Check for vacuum leaks and check all one-way check valves. It's important not to lose valuable boost the turbo is having to create. The more you lose, the warmer your air charge will be to run the desired amount of boost. The only real way to hunt down air leaks is with a Mity-Vac pump. 'bout $40.

Get an ATR check valve and install it before the PCV. I have never seen a PCV that will hold ANY boost. Even brand new.

Get some GSCA club valve springs.

Bad wires, wrong plugs, dirty IC, air leaks are all things that can go unnoticed and end up being detrimental to performance.

What kind of injectors and chip do you have? If you have stockers or blue tops go with a thrasher chip.

ok,ok, so most of this stuff is not "free", but it's the little things that add up.

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Stock Block, Stock Cam, PTE-52, Champion Heads, V4, MSD50's, TH DP, JayJackson 62mm TB, 16position MaxEffort Chip. 3680# with Driver
12.0 @ 116.5mph w/20psi using 17.9* timing

mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
 

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Make sure it's the "TurboCharger Test Functions Kit". The cheaper Mity-Vac's only do vacuum. You will want the selectable boost/vaccum pump. Great for pumping up check valves, setting hobbs switches, testing AFPR's ect.... not to mention checking for leaks, with a squirt bottle of soap!

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Stock Block, Stock Cam, PTE-52, Champion Heads, V4, MSD50's, TH DP, JayJackson 62mm TB, 16position MaxEffort Chip. 3680# with Driver
12.0 @ 116.5mph w/20psi using 17.9* timing

mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
 

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If you have a stock location IC on the car, you can improve it's heat transfer with an extension into the under-car scoop.
Either make up a sheetmetal extension or use 1/2 of a rectangular plastic waste basket. (Office Depot has some black ones that work great) Just cut out the bottom & slice it in half from top to bottom then attach it to the scoop opening and to the airdams with screws & nuts.
You'll also need to get the extra air out of the engine bay which can be done by removing or shortening the gasket at the firewall.
(I left a section of mine on to prevent water from getting to the heater box & coilpack.)
These mods have proven out to be worth a 1 mph gain in the 1/4.


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DIY Alcohol Injection
 

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Orlando_87GN,
I think the TurboCharger Test kit was discontinued. There was a post on another board last year (?) that said what few left were on closeout & they were all bought up. In any event, there is a deluxe kit for both pressure & vacuum but it's more like $60-$70. I adapted my $25 MityVac to do both by getting an extra gage and splicing it between 2 lengths of hose. Depending on the function needed, I either slip the hose on the outlet port for pressure or in the normal location for vacuum. Cost about $5 to adapt it & it works as good as the turbo kit.

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DIY Alcohol Injection
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys, I appreciate it! I've got all new ignition components, new wires, new 43 plugs at .035, cleaned out IC, tried to run a Thrasher, but my car didn't seem to like it. I've got an AFPR, Walbro 340, hotwire, pinon snubber, tie down, blue hoses, boost gauge, etc...Still cannot get even 10 psi. I want to get everything in tip top condition before I make the wastegate adjustable. I've already been through the Spring Cleaning guide about 2-3 months ago. One thing that does bug me is that my cat con always seems to smell and I think it's plugged. My car is at 85,000 miles and it's the stock cat. I'll have to cut it off. I'm getting a THDP shortly. I also use an OTC2000 that my dad has for a scan tool and I have checked everything. Every little setting looks good. Any ideas on boost issues? I'll look for leaks too.

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87 GN
 

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GN138,

Take the stock original cat and throw it in the garbage!!!!!! With 85,000 miles it probably is plugged and this would also be the reason you can't get over 10 lbs of boost. When you remove / clean the cat you will think you are driving a totally different car. Just remember what goes in must come out. In other words you won't be able to make boost if you can't get the air through the exhaust.

Good luck,

Paul Beal
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A clogged up cat will certaintly cause the low boost you say you are experiencing. Gutting mine was like night & day difference!


If gutting the cat doesn't cure the problem, it would be a good idea to get a new wastegate solenoid & the "Y" hoses that connect the solenoid to the turbo compressor. Some have mentioned GM having the wrong orifice in some of the replacement "Y" hoses. I believe Steve mentioned that normally the orifice should be between .046-.050 measured. Maybe he can verify this.

You can check the compressor wheel in the turbo for play (movement side to side & up & down) by taking the coiled hose loose from the turbo. Removal of the inlet bell will help you see it better.HTH
 

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My car only had 8-10psi of boost stock according to VDO boost gauge. The factory gauge is a jacked up POS.
So I cut a section out of the wastegate rod threaded it and cranked it up.
Gutting the cat is very easy and helps alot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Guys! How much of a chore is taking the cat off going to be? I think I'll do it when I install the THDP so I can just cut it off and throw it away. Thanks again!

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87 GN
 

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GN138,

It isn't too bad of job removing the cat but you better have a set of torches to heat up the 4 bolts. They have been getting crud on them for the last 15 years.

You will be a much happier TR owner once you dump that cat.

Good luck,

Paul Beal
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I do have a torch that we use for heating pipe while plumbing. I should be able to use that to expand the metal and it will come off easier? Cool, thanks again!

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87 GN
 

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Cherry red works for me. I hate those bolts....
 
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