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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, i am new to the turbo cars . An have read some of the posts . an was wondering what parts i should stay away from , an which are good .
i have a 87 gn that is stock . the eng is out an will need to be rebuilt as the nylon gear broke an valves hit pistons .

i would like the car to be street / strip . any idea about cams ,timing chain , ect would be great . i would like to stay with a flat tapet cam . as i have to spend money on machine work an parts.
 

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what are u looking to run? are you upgrading anything? what kina performance are you looking for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
not sure what i am wanting to run yet . but would like to start changing stuff for when i get bigger injectors, turbo , ect. but still want the car streetable. hope to be in the near future low 12s.
 

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I would at least go with ARP hardware on the bottom end. If you need new pistons/overbore I used the wiseco pro-true pistons and liked them, others have used TRW, JE, diamond etc. Depends on how much you want to spend I guess but a lot of guys are going real fast on "cheaper" pistons.

Cams: I would do a quick search you can find tons of threads on this. Pretty much dont go over a [email protected] is the general consensus for the times you want, I dont have experience with cams any bigger so I cant help ya out there. Personally I am putting an erson 208-208 in my new motor. Roller cams are great for these motors becuase of the occasional "cam eater" engine but are expensive and some still have problems. A big block car at the drags (hot streetish build) exploded a roller lifter last weekend at the drags.

Timing chain: Tons of opinions on this one. If you get a double roller DO NOT use a tensioner like the stock one has your it will get chewed up and you will be re-rebuilding your motor. I used the cloyes double roller and love it, some say a double roller will stretch and set off the knock sensor but I dont know if there is much truth to taht when it comes to good chains. Some say use a cheap advance auto one but I strongly advise trying to save money on a part like this. Make sure if the motor is line honed you may have to get an undersized chain. Call a chain manufacturer to get the procedure on doing this.

Always do new valve springs, and make sure the pressure from spring to spring doesnt vary too much, machinist should check that. Comp cams 980's are a very popular springs as are harder LT1 springs but there is controversy over wheter the higher pressure is needed, I dont really think it is IMO.

Do Not run a high volume oil pump unless your clearances are big is what most people say, however I know my clearances are around .0025 and ran standard with 15psi at hot idle 10w30 oil. Ask someone on here about bottom end clearances i think .002 is the number to shoot for. This is tighter than the average SBC so make sure you let the machinist know.

While you got the oil pan off make sure that your stock drain plug nut has a hole drilled in it horizontally to let all of the oil drain or cut it out completley and put your own on on the outside of the pan to ensure a full drain.

Do not use the cheaper fram filters, if you use fram get the racing ones. Tons of discussion on this around.

Check your stock front cover oil pump cavity for scoring, if it is bad replace the whole front cover. Search for Earl's porting a front cover writeup on this message board as it tells you how to prep a new front cover.

Cam bearings: Either get coated cam bearings or harder cam bearings becuase the front cam bearing likes to wear out *sometimes* and you will lose oil pressure, coating and harder bearings can help prevent this.

Lots of opinions on head gaskets, head studs, etc floating around, just keep reading up and you will learn alot.

Anything else just ask I think this is my longest post ever. Oh and of course this is my opinion and some people will differ.

Joe
 
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